• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Crooked scope?

Waymore

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
20
Total newbie question here but, I have a Remington 300 wm sendero that I just bought a nightforce shv for, nf rings and base as well. I mounted up the scope tonight using a bore level and another small level on top of the scope and got it perfect. But when I look from behind the rifle it looks way off. Even with one level on the top of the rings and one on the scope they are no where near close. Same with one in the bore and one on the rings. Is this common? I'd assume they should all three be level? Or am I using the wrong bore level? I've never ran into this issue and I have mounted several scopes on different coyote and closer range deer rifles and have never had any crooked scope issues. but I have never had a long range rifle or used any nightforce products
 
It's hard to get it perfect the old-school way. You can get it real close, but it's rare if it lines up just right after torquing. If you already have a small scope cap level, and you use picatinny rings and bases, buying yourself a Badger Ordnance Dead-Level is worth the money...Especially if you have more than a few rifles, and you plan on upgrading your other rifle's optics later on. You can even charge folks $20 each to mount and level their scopes, they don't even need their gun, just their scope and rings. And you can pay for it pretty quick.

I've had mine for a couple years, and it's been worth EVERY penny!

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ad-level-scope-leveling-device-prod55091.aspx

Also, if you don't have a proper inch-pound torque wrench, I highly recommend getting one. I use the Wheeler FAT Wrench.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...es/general-wrenches/fat-wrench-prod56976.aspx
 
Wow that thing looks handy! And trust me I'd buy that in a heart beat if my wife didn't already have me in the dog house for what I spent on a scope, rings and a base this week!
 
I usually get the rifle level in a vice then mount the scope and align the vertical crosshairs with a door frame or the corner of a building. Using multiple levels assures things are "level" with the ground, but not necessarily each other.

I've never found a "bore level" to be useful for installing a scope the first time. They can be somewhat useful for removing then remounting one if used to align it in the same position.
 
Len sells these and the are so simple it's stupid.

https://www.longrangehunting.com/store/segway-reticle-leveler.html

There are multiple ways to utilize it but if you set this on the barrel off to the left and set your scope on the rifle tilted right then move them each slightly until the bubles (use a bubble level on top of your scope) when both bubbles are level your scope will be level. Verify it by looking through the scope at the horizontal lines.
 
Does anyone first mount a scope level on the scope and get it level with the reticle before installing it in rings?
That's pretty much the whole concept behind the Badger Dead-Level that I use. You mount and level the scope in the rings themselves before you mount it to the rifle. That way when you're scope says it's level, you know your gun is as well.
 
It's true there are many ways to skin the cat. Assuming it's a bolt action rifle, I just use a flashlight. After removing the bolt I will stand in front of the rifle. Shine the flashlight through the objective lense, cast a shadow (of the reticle) on the wall behind the rifle. Look through the bore from the muzzle and when the shadow on the wall perfectly bisects the bore the retucle is plumb. The lightsource can generate some error depending on the angle of incidence, I just make sure the light source is on top of the muzzle and I get good results without any special gadgets.
 
Does anyone first mount a scope level on the scope and get it level with the reticle before installing it in rings?
I don't but I do leave them on to make leveling them easier if I am going to switch scopes.

I use a bubble level to get the rifle level, then mount the scope.

I then use a second level on the scope.

I bought one of Len's little gizmo's just to make it all easier and quicker.
 
It's true there are many ways to skin the cat. Assuming it's a bolt action rifle, I just use a flashlight. After removing the bolt I will stand in front of the rifle. Shine the flashlight through the objective lense, cast a shadow (of the reticle) on the wall behind the rifle. Look through the bore from the muzzle and when the shadow on the wall perfectly bisects the bore the retucle is plumb. The lightsource can generate some error depending on the angle of incidence, I just make sure the light source is on top of the muzzle and I get good results without any special gadgets.
Interesting.
 
Problem solved! Turns out the brand new wheeler bore level I bought isn't molded level it's crooked.
 
Well that isn't the first time a level has resulted in a scope not being level!
I have several levels and will double check with several thru each step! I even made
2 levels with 20 MOA pitch to help
a good gun vice is essential as is a super accurate Torque wrench
I use a digital that has a calibrating tool with it!
Good luck with mounting.
Next step to range verify out to at least 600 yrds!
 
morning, people eyes r different. I use a bore sighter for leveling.
just me. I have noticed when mounting and leveling a rifle scope
for another person. I let the owner set the leveling of there scope.
Wildrose is totally right in his mounting practices. GBOT TUM
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top