Hicks
Well-Known Member
Still sort of new at this. Is copper solvent a good thing? I've been told by someone in the "know" that I should not clean the copper out of a barrel. What do you guys do?Hicks
Copper Solvent
- Thread starter Hicks
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If someone in the "know" told you that, you need to find another someone who knows to listen to.
Yes, you clean the copper out routinely IF you want any degree of accuracy. Now if that someone is a gunsmith my guess he is just waiting to sell you a new barrel.
Wipeout Accelerator Patch Out, Montana Extreme(ME) 50 BMG are both excellant and both take the copper and the carbon ring in front of the throat. It is essential to remove both and not all products remove both.
Good one piece rod, I like Deweys coated rods.
Bore guide to protect your chamber leade and bore. The best is the Lucas for the money.
ME plastic bristle brush
Jag correct size, I like the dewey pierce that you can pierce or wrap.
Patches to fit with the jag and bore.
Follow the directions and follow up with a patch of ME Bore Conditioner or Kroil, then two dry patches. I like the ME best. My first shot is always closer to my zero than with kroil.
All can be found at Sinclair International - Specializing in products designed for precision rifle ammunition reloading and shooting or Robert W. Hart and Son Inc.
BH
Yes, you clean the copper out routinely IF you want any degree of accuracy. Now if that someone is a gunsmith my guess he is just waiting to sell you a new barrel.
Wipeout Accelerator Patch Out, Montana Extreme(ME) 50 BMG are both excellant and both take the copper and the carbon ring in front of the throat. It is essential to remove both and not all products remove both.
Good one piece rod, I like Deweys coated rods.
Bore guide to protect your chamber leade and bore. The best is the Lucas for the money.
ME plastic bristle brush
Jag correct size, I like the dewey pierce that you can pierce or wrap.
Patches to fit with the jag and bore.
Follow the directions and follow up with a patch of ME Bore Conditioner or Kroil, then two dry patches. I like the ME best. My first shot is always closer to my zero than with kroil.
All can be found at Sinclair International - Specializing in products designed for precision rifle ammunition reloading and shooting or Robert W. Hart and Son Inc.
BH
Hicks
Well-Known Member
Hey, thanks for the info. Ok, I can see this new addiction of mine is going to get more expensive than I thought. Another question: How often do you guys clean the copper out? Hicks
biff's reloading
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2006
- Messages
- 360
i just use the bore scrubber stuff from birchwood casey. its at walmart. i swab out the bore between groups, and it keeps any copper and crud from building up. just make sure you get all the ammonia-solvent stuff out before you leave the gun sit. ammonia (the stuff that dissolves the copper) draws moisture kinda like salt does. no es bueno
ol mike
Well-Known Member
Bounty Hunter ,
I didn't know the wipe-out would clean the carbon -guess i could read the label on my can.
I use general motors -t o p engine cleaner-it's for pouring in w/your gas and cleans the carbon from you engine.
I do use the wipe-out accelerator to.
Hicks ,
Brother it's a never ending thing w/expense -but once you start to learn more and more you realize you need something else i.e. more expense.
Barrel cleaning regimens are like anything else you'll develope a style of your own.
Some barrels are more rough than others so there is no etched in stone method of cleaning and when to do that cleaning.
Its been my expierence that a factory barrel will lose accuracy between 40-50 shots fired.
That comes from praire dog hunting -i can take a 50 round cartridge box and towards the end of the box misses become commonplace.
Same experience at the range on paper -groups start to wane at 25 rounds fired and each following group gets noticeably worse ,a few more groups and you are shooting patterns.
A custom barrel will hang in there longer but i don't go much over 40-50 rounds myself b/c i enjoy giving her a good cleaning.
One thing to remember is that after you clean all the carbon/copper out of your barrel -your gun might well shoot the first few rounds wildly and not to your point of aim.The barrel has to get -fouled in- a little then it will settle down and shoot right.
This can create a bit of a problem if you shoot -give a cleaning -then want to go hunting.
Some people clean at the range then fire a shot or three to confirm -she's ready-.
Well get on down to the gunstore and spend some money on cleaning supplies -and tell your guy -in the know- what he needs and why lol.
I didn't know the wipe-out would clean the carbon -guess i could read the label on my can.
I use general motors -t o p engine cleaner-it's for pouring in w/your gas and cleans the carbon from you engine.
I do use the wipe-out accelerator to.
Hicks ,
Brother it's a never ending thing w/expense -but once you start to learn more and more you realize you need something else i.e. more expense.
Barrel cleaning regimens are like anything else you'll develope a style of your own.
Some barrels are more rough than others so there is no etched in stone method of cleaning and when to do that cleaning.
Its been my expierence that a factory barrel will lose accuracy between 40-50 shots fired.
That comes from praire dog hunting -i can take a 50 round cartridge box and towards the end of the box misses become commonplace.
Same experience at the range on paper -groups start to wane at 25 rounds fired and each following group gets noticeably worse ,a few more groups and you are shooting patterns.
A custom barrel will hang in there longer but i don't go much over 40-50 rounds myself b/c i enjoy giving her a good cleaning.
One thing to remember is that after you clean all the carbon/copper out of your barrel -your gun might well shoot the first few rounds wildly and not to your point of aim.The barrel has to get -fouled in- a little then it will settle down and shoot right.
This can create a bit of a problem if you shoot -give a cleaning -then want to go hunting.
Some people clean at the range then fire a shot or three to confirm -she's ready-.
Well get on down to the gunstore and spend some money on cleaning supplies -and tell your guy -in the know- what he needs and why lol.
Last edited:
Hicks
Well-Known Member
Wow. Thanks a bunch guys. All good information. Ok, I went to Sportsman's Warehouse today and spent an additional $50 on a 44" Dewey Nylon coated rod, a chamber guide and a jag. Whew...Well, I think I'll give the new 7mm RUM a good cleaning tonight and see what it'll do on Wednesday.
glassman
Active Member
I don't know if you guys have tired these two products, but they are "super" cleaners:
1) Bore Tech - Eliminator (very fast copper remover - no ammonia)
2) Slip 2000* - Carbon Cutter (Non-Toxic / removes only carbon)
I have been using these of lately and they work very well, so well in fact, that I don't use Montana Extreme, Butch's Bore Shine, Barnes or Shooters Choice anymore.
*Slip 2000 was used on a badly fouled spark plug, I let the plug soak in the solution for 10 minutes. Removed plug and no carbon was present on the plug!
1) Bore Tech - Eliminator (very fast copper remover - no ammonia)
2) Slip 2000* - Carbon Cutter (Non-Toxic / removes only carbon)
I have been using these of lately and they work very well, so well in fact, that I don't use Montana Extreme, Butch's Bore Shine, Barnes or Shooters Choice anymore.
*Slip 2000 was used on a badly fouled spark plug, I let the plug soak in the solution for 10 minutes. Removed plug and no carbon was present on the plug!
