Copper flakes on patches after first cleaning

so I like a coted rod. Mike Lukas will need to know the specific rod that you have.. also I like the rod being a little larger than the attachment, jag and brush without a lip or road bump. This prevents you from damaging crown when scrubbing. You really need to stop brush before it completely exist barrel.
It's a Tipton carbon rod
 
so I like a coted rod. Mike Lukas will need to know the specific rod that you have.. also I like the rod being a little larger than the attachment, jag and brush without a lip or road bump. This prevents you from damaging crown when scrubbing. You really need to stop brush before it completely exist barrel.

I'm confused by your last sentence, that you really need to stop the brush before it exits the barrel. Would that mean you need to reverse the direction of the brush while it's still inside the barrel?

I try to read up on cleaning techniques a bunch, and there's as many suggestions as there are comments. One of the more consistent comments, and one backed up by the owner's manuals of the manufacturers of my guns, is to never reverse the direction of the brush while it's still inside the barrel.
 
I'm confused by your last sentence, that you really need to stop the brush before it exits the barrel. Would that mean you need to reverse the direction of the brush while it's still inside the barrel?

I try to read up on cleaning techniques a bunch, and there's as many suggestions as there are comments. One of the more consistent comments, and one backed up by the owner's manuals of the manufacturers of my guns, is to never reverse the direction of the brush while it's still inside the barrel.
This is true, but not always true. Using a quality nylon brush is fine.
 
When you use the Wipeout, it will remove the copper just like you have found out. I use it with the Accelerator and let it soak a while. It is normal. Nothing to worry about.

I have never cleaned a Tikka, but have done a few crappy Savage barrels. Those put out lots of flakes, mainly due to the roughness of the bores.
 
I have seen something similar. It was from the rod or rod tip in the case of a carbon rod flexing and scrapping the chamber mouth - I run a patch before using my rod guides to soak the chamber. It was always my fault not the barrel, I AM MORE CAREFUL NOW. The reference above to the reamer could also be the reason as it is about the only rough area in most barrels, which is what a break-in process is designed to smooth it out. Never seem this problem with a Tikka, Savage yeas Tikka no.
 
Below is a borescope photo of a new button rifle barrel.

GpTCke2.jpg


Below is a custom hand lapped barrel.

S82Lb6S.jpg


If you think your copper flakes are bad you should own a milsurp with a pitted and frosted barrel.

I also agree with using foam bore cleaner, spare the rod and spoil the bore.

Below my 1943 .303 British Enfield with a frosted bore and one shot of foam bore cleaner and no bore brush.

p59rhnP.jpg
 
Are you feeding the rounds from the magazine? Rough feed ramp? Jacket scraping before the bullet makes it to the chamber. Look to see if the flakes are coming off of that area.
 
Below is a borescope photo of a new button rifle barrel.

GpTCke2.jpg


Below is a custom hand lapped barrel.

S82Lb6S.jpg


If you think your copper flakes are bad you should own a milsurp with a pitted and frosted barrel.

I also agree with using foam bore cleaner, spare the rod and spoil the bore.

Below my 1943 .303 British Enfield with a frosted bore and one shot of foam bore cleaner and no bore brush.

p59rhnP.jpg
I only use Patchout foam and run patch down after.
Are you feeding the rounds from the magazine? Rough feed ramp? Jacket scraping before the bullet makes it to the chamber. Look to see if the flakes are coming off of that area.
I only fed about 3-5 out of the mag and they fed like butter. All the rest were single fed.
 
Brand new barrels are somewhat rough still. They will shoot in more as time goes on and then eventually start to wear out.
Every rifle I own I have had from new & never seen anything like that before!

Imo definitely a rifling issue.

Id be taking it back & not mucking around with it!
 
It's a Tipton carbon rod
Tipton are good. I don't know if the Tipton attachment jags and brushes are smooth without a lip on them though. Metal dragging over the crown can be detrimental. And the jdewey brush is softer so yes reverse it after it is half of the way out.
 

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Tipton are good. I don't know if the Tipton attachment jags and brushes are smooth without a lip on them though. Metal dragging over the crown can be detrimental. And the jdewey brush is softer so yes reverse it after it is half of the way out.
Almost positive it's just like this. I will check when I get home today
 
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