Contact info for Barrel Block makers
- Thread starter Matt27
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Go to Bruce Baer in PA, at www.baercustomrifles.com
Go with the split block that just clamps back together. Real pain in the but plus more expensive to have a glue in barrrel in solid block installed and when it comes time to change barrels more time and money to have taken out vs just unscrewing 6-8 hex head screws. Absolutely zero difference in accuracy.
Bruce has done a lot of testing in this area and the 9" block is the best.
BH
Go with the split block that just clamps back together. Real pain in the but plus more expensive to have a glue in barrrel in solid block installed and when it comes time to change barrels more time and money to have taken out vs just unscrewing 6-8 hex head screws. Absolutely zero difference in accuracy.
Bruce has done a lot of testing in this area and the 9" block is the best.
BH
308 nate
Well-Known Member
Hi Matt27,
If you are interested I have a clamp-on, 9", 1.250 bore, 6061 aluminum barrel block in the shop that's just about ready to go.These barrel blocks are precisely machined and have not been buffed for a mirror finish.Also included are four aluminum pillars for bedding. The block I have listed above sells for $200.00 shipped but I can custom make blocks to your barrel diameter for an additional $35.00
The bore on These blocks are drilled and then reamed for a smooth and precise bore and then the outside of the block is cut true to the bore.Here is what I tell people when wondering what they do
#1- They are an excellant heat sink in which they suck heat away from the throat area of the barrel.
#2- when the barrel block is installed,the action is free floated which relieves stress from the action.
#3- you are supporting the barrel further out, so instead of hanging a 30" barrel you are only hanging 21" of barrel.
Here are some pictures of what the block looks like.
6" block 6 - 1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in. lbs
8" block 7-1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in.lbs
here are two groups shot at 700 yards with the barrel block rifle.As you can see they don't hinder accuracy any.
308nate
If you are interested I have a clamp-on, 9", 1.250 bore, 6061 aluminum barrel block in the shop that's just about ready to go.These barrel blocks are precisely machined and have not been buffed for a mirror finish.Also included are four aluminum pillars for bedding. The block I have listed above sells for $200.00 shipped but I can custom make blocks to your barrel diameter for an additional $35.00
The bore on These blocks are drilled and then reamed for a smooth and precise bore and then the outside of the block is cut true to the bore.Here is what I tell people when wondering what they do
#1- They are an excellant heat sink in which they suck heat away from the throat area of the barrel.
#2- when the barrel block is installed,the action is free floated which relieves stress from the action.
#3- you are supporting the barrel further out, so instead of hanging a 30" barrel you are only hanging 21" of barrel.
Here are some pictures of what the block looks like.
6" block 6 - 1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in. lbs
8" block 7-1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in.lbs
here are two groups shot at 700 yards with the barrel block rifle.As you can see they don't hinder accuracy any.
308nate
Thanks guys.
308 They look good but i really like the idea of Bruce Bear's split block. If one needs to take the action out you can leave half of the block in. I do not see that yours do that. I like your price though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
308 They look good but i really like the idea of Bruce Bear's split block. If one needs to take the action out you can leave half of the block in. I do not see that yours do that. I like your price though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
308 nate
Well-Known Member
Matt27,
Bruce Bears' 2-piece block I am sure is an excellant barrel block and you probably would not go wrong with it.
I am by no means trying to push this block on you,I just thought I would explain why my blocks are the way they are.
By having the bolts on the bottom I can make the block fit into a narrower stock and I feel that the one piece block will have a more consistant hold than a two piece block. Here is a picture of how my blocks are installed.
First the block is installed on the barrel and then the stock is inletted for the block and pillars. I also inlet 1-1/2 - 2" under the action for epoxy recoil area.then,pillars are bolted to the bottom of the block and then the barrreled action is placed in the stock.the pillars are held in with five minute epoxy,once the 5 min epoxy sets the bolts are removed and the barreled action is removed and then a liquide epoxy like Acraglas is poured in around the pillars to within 1/4" of the top of the pillars. 24 hours later the slot in the block and the holes on the side for the cap screws are filled with modeling clay and then a release agent is applied to the block,action and barrel.And then for the final stage, Devcon aluminum putty is layed 1/4" thick under the block and 1/2" deep under the action and then the barelled action and block are layed in the stock and the four mounting bolts are installed and torqued to 30 in.lbs. then it sets for another 24 hrs. Next barrel,action and block are removed and..... clean up time.
Once this process is done removing the barreled action from the stock is a 1 minute job... tops.
When it is time for a re-barrel the barreled action and block are removed from the stock then the 1/4 - 28 cap screws are loosened and the block is slid off the barrel. 2 minutes ....tops! Then re-barrel is standard procedure.
I hope my explanation is comprehendable as I did leave out a lot of little details in the bedding procedure ,just gave you an overview.
FWIW,
308nate
Bruce Bears' 2-piece block I am sure is an excellant barrel block and you probably would not go wrong with it.
I am by no means trying to push this block on you,I just thought I would explain why my blocks are the way they are.
By having the bolts on the bottom I can make the block fit into a narrower stock and I feel that the one piece block will have a more consistant hold than a two piece block. Here is a picture of how my blocks are installed.
First the block is installed on the barrel and then the stock is inletted for the block and pillars. I also inlet 1-1/2 - 2" under the action for epoxy recoil area.then,pillars are bolted to the bottom of the block and then the barrreled action is placed in the stock.the pillars are held in with five minute epoxy,once the 5 min epoxy sets the bolts are removed and the barreled action is removed and then a liquide epoxy like Acraglas is poured in around the pillars to within 1/4" of the top of the pillars. 24 hours later the slot in the block and the holes on the side for the cap screws are filled with modeling clay and then a release agent is applied to the block,action and barrel.And then for the final stage, Devcon aluminum putty is layed 1/4" thick under the block and 1/2" deep under the action and then the barelled action and block are layed in the stock and the four mounting bolts are installed and torqued to 30 in.lbs. then it sets for another 24 hrs. Next barrel,action and block are removed and..... clean up time.
Once this process is done removing the barreled action from the stock is a 1 minute job... tops.
When it is time for a re-barrel the barreled action and block are removed from the stock then the 1/4 - 28 cap screws are loosened and the block is slid off the barrel. 2 minutes ....tops! Then re-barrel is standard procedure.
I hope my explanation is comprehendable as I did leave out a lot of little details in the bedding procedure ,just gave you an overview.
FWIW,
308nate
308 nate
Well-Known Member
Matt,
I'll be up for another 1/2 hour here if you want to give me a call.My internet mail server is currently down so no e-mails coming in all afternoon and probably not untill MOnday,so maybe there was a reason your e-mail didn't come through the other night anyway give me a buzz if you like.Also I will be home tomorrow until noon CT.
308nate
I'll be up for another 1/2 hour here if you want to give me a call.My internet mail server is currently down so no e-mails coming in all afternoon and probably not untill MOnday,so maybe there was a reason your e-mail didn't come through the other night anyway give me a buzz if you like.Also I will be home tomorrow until noon CT.
308nate
Black Diamond 408
Well-Known Member
Nate,
I have a question for your barrel blocks, What is the measurements? What minimum size stock would be required? Forarm width? I have a 408 i may put one on to test, the barrel is 1.350 dia barrel shank.
Thanks! Dave
I have a question for your barrel blocks, What is the measurements? What minimum size stock would be required? Forarm width? I have a 408 i may put one on to test, the barrel is 1.350 dia barrel shank.
Thanks! Dave
308 nate
Well-Known Member
Dave,
As far as making a barrel block with a 1.350 bore,you would need to order at least 5 barrel blocks as I would have to have a reamer specailY ground to that diameter.If you already have the barrel with a 1.350 bore, I would recommend a 9" barrel block with a 1.3125 bore and then turning your barrel down to 1.3125 for 9" then you would slip the barrel block onto the barrel from the breech end and then thread on the action. The barrel block width for the 1.3125 would be 1.8125. Minimum stock width I would recommend would be 2.200 (top of your forearm.) The stock in the picture is a 3-1/2" flat bottom forearm which tapers to 2-1/2" at the top. Here are some standard bore diameters if you are having a barrel made, you can specify contour to match the bore.
1.250 over all barrel block width 1.750
1.312 over all barrel block width 1.812
1.375 over all barrel block width 1.875
1.437 over all barrel block width 1.937
1.500 over all barrel block width 2.000
308 nate
As far as making a barrel block with a 1.350 bore,you would need to order at least 5 barrel blocks as I would have to have a reamer specailY ground to that diameter.If you already have the barrel with a 1.350 bore, I would recommend a 9" barrel block with a 1.3125 bore and then turning your barrel down to 1.3125 for 9" then you would slip the barrel block onto the barrel from the breech end and then thread on the action. The barrel block width for the 1.3125 would be 1.8125. Minimum stock width I would recommend would be 2.200 (top of your forearm.) The stock in the picture is a 3-1/2" flat bottom forearm which tapers to 2-1/2" at the top. Here are some standard bore diameters if you are having a barrel made, you can specify contour to match the bore.
1.250 over all barrel block width 1.750
1.312 over all barrel block width 1.812
1.375 over all barrel block width 1.875
1.437 over all barrel block width 1.937
1.500 over all barrel block width 2.000
308 nate
Black Diamond 408
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Nate.
Brent
Well-Known Member
Dave,
My barrel block is pretty near identical to Nate's. It's bored for the 1.35" dia. bbl and is somewhat narrower to fit the forend in my stock though. I could measure it for you to see what was left as a minimum thickness on the 45 deg. flats, and to see how wide it is. Mine's 10" long also.
Nate,
How much do you charge for a 1.25" bore in a blank alum block?
Dave,
How much to clear anodize a couple of these babies for me?
My barrel block is pretty near identical to Nate's. It's bored for the 1.35" dia. bbl and is somewhat narrower to fit the forend in my stock though. I could measure it for you to see what was left as a minimum thickness on the 45 deg. flats, and to see how wide it is. Mine's 10" long also.
Nate,
How much do you charge for a 1.25" bore in a blank alum block?
Dave,
How much to clear anodize a couple of these babies for me?
