OK, there ya go Turbo. You're already beginning to assemble the cleaning kit and some of the items in your kit will include information about methods (both proven and unproven) for cleaning your rifle. You'll get advise on brushes (steel brushes, bronze brushes, nylon brushes and no brushes at all). You'll get advice on jags (slotted jags, pointed jags, brass jags, nylon jags) and then there's the advice on solvents and how long to let them ferment in the bore. Competition shooters are likely to provide you with advice that is different from the varmint hunter or the large game hunter. I'd suggest you read it all, sort out the extremes and focus on what makes sense to you. Your experience will, over time, help you find the center line.
Regarding your question, the Tipton bore guide will work just fine. It is, in fact, the one I use the most for my larger caliber rifles. I use both nylon and bronze brushes. My first cleaning passes use involve solvent wetted patches followed wth the nylon brush for the lose material and my final passes use the bronze brushes to dislodge some of the stubborn material. I try to remember to rinse the brushes between passes through the bore because, (IMO) as they pick up pieces of carbon, the carbon laden brush might be hard enough to cause excessive barrel ware. I also discard brushes that are worn to the point that they move easily through the bore. A brush that offers little or no resistance is of little value IMO, I can't back any of that up with scientific data but it makes sense to me. I also use a shotgun bore brush large enough to fit snuggly in the chamber and rotate it to clear the free bore of accumulaltions of soot and carbon.
I've tried to describe what I do, not necessarily what you should do. My methods are no more proven to be "best" than anyone elses. In the end, it's your decision.
Good shooting .
