Carbon Cleaner Test Picture Heavy

I'll look around and see if I have some ...you're talking bout the calcium line rust remover cleaning product right?
Yes that's the stuff. A few wet patches and let the barrel sit for 5-10 minutes. Scrub with a brush and carbon is gone.
 
So there's my highly unscientific test. I had higher hopes for wipeout, but not surprised that Montana did well, very surprised how well the Hoppes foaming cleaner did. I figure I'll definitely keep buying the montana for sure, and probably will incorporate the hoppes a little more than the wipeout in the future depending on whether I am trying to get at copper too or just carbon. I like the eezox for oiling down my shotgun to prevent rust, but the rest of these aren't going to make the cut for future purchases.
Why did you not apply for a $25,000 government grant?
 
Wow!! This is truly fantastic and thanks SO MUCH!! Super cool of you to do and share this. So well done!

I too add a vote for trying CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover), and GM upper engine cleaner if at all possible.

One more would be the home brewed "Ed's Red." I have found it to remove carbon that both carb cleaner and Wipeout did not; a lot of it! https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Thanks again!!
Vettepilot
 
I have been using GM top engine cleaner for years to remove carbon. GM changed the formula several years ago and we were afraid the new formula wouldn't do the job, so I and others went to every GM dealer within a reasonable distance and bought up all we could find. Ended up with a dozen cans of the stuff, and after 15 years I have half a can left.
The procedure I use is two or three wet patches through a fouled bore and then wet a brush and do several passes. Then a dry patch to clean the residue out.
After that I use the regular copper solvent to finish up.
 
birdiemc

Thanks for the efforts on this. Pictures say a thousand words but you're description of the leftover residue is an added bonus.
 
Last weekend I removed a stainless steel muzzle brake from my Weatherby. It had spots with very hard carbon on it. I sprayed 1/2 with Wipeout foam and 1/2 wilt CLP. After 15 minutes I could NOT rub off the carbon from both sides. I sprayed it again and left for about 90 minutes. The Wipeout rubbed off easily after 9- min, CLP left carbon on the stainless cooking, even when I applied hard pressure. I guess Wipeout foam needs time to work.
 
I would definitely love to test more products, but these are all I have on hand.

@new2mud
Carb cleaner seems to work ok... Based solely on what i saw here I would say if using it to clean a rifle I would probably want to run wet patch, then brush, then dry patch and repeat. It seems to remove in layers for lack of better words...it dries almost immediately and seems no easier to wipe away after an hour of application than immediately after.
Thanks for this great post and the time you spent that benefits all of us.
I have been using Mercury (as in boats) Combustion Chamber Cleaner for years now and it works as you said - removing in layers but this CCC doesn't dry. I apply 15 drops into the muzzle and let it run down onto a bristle brush just in front of the chamber and then scrub with about 20 strokes. Leave for 15 min and patch out. Two applications will remove 200rounds worth of Varget carbon in a 6x284 and 3 to 4 doses for Rl22. This is really dirty.
Yes I do use a bore guide
As I carbon clean after every shoot no carbon ring develops. The good thing is it has little to no effect on copper thus maintaining "condition".
When copper needs to be thinned out a bit I use Pro-Shot copper solvent IV. Using same procedure as for carbon. Bore scope inspection confirms this will remove all traces of Cu.
Over my 56yr of c/f shooting I have tried almost every new product as it came on the market, most good some appaling.
I'm not saying this is the best but it works for me.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top