Can't bed a Tikka T3 ????????????

Tikka Lover

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Highland, Utah
A local gunsmith told me it wasn't needed because of where the recoil lug is located and it can't get any better than it already is. Has anyone has there T3 bedded? I can't believe this would be true. Mine is a synthetic stock of course. If you have pics that would be great. Thanks
 
Any gun can be bedded and most all ebnifit from bedding especialy piller bedding if you take the actionout of the stock at all for cleaning.

I've never looked at a T3 but I'm sure the bedding issues can't be any worse than a **** Ruger 77 MK-II.
 
James,

The Tikka T3s have the recoil lug installed into the stock, rather than fastened to the barreled action. Puts a different twist on bedding an action.
 
either way , unless its a very tight mechanical fit it can baenift from bedding , jst the same way that remington 700's do from bedding into a stock that has an aluminum block cut to fit the action.

BUT , like I said I'd have to look at it and see exactly how its all mated together.

I saw a prototype action once that had two recoil lugs that were also the enlarged section for the action screws , they were shapped like a male cone that fit into a female cone inleted into an aluminum bedding block in the stock , once the action was snugged down their was no way for action to move in any direction and it also allowed for a much larger action screw to be used.
 
Tikka

I to believe that all rifles/pistols benefit from bedding.

If an action can move, it will move (a variation of murffys law)
and bedding is one way of preventing this.

Most of the stocks I use have some type of bedding system installed
in them. But they all seam to benefit from a good bedding job.

I have never tryed to bed a Tikka but it has to have something to
hold it to the stock and this is the aera that I would look at to
bed .

Bedding also helps to keep the zero if you have to take it out of
the stock to cleen and oil as long as you torque it the same each
time.

But if it shoots good bedding is not needed if you don't take it in
and out of the stock.

J E CUSTOM
 
Bedding Tikka T3s

I've got two Tikka T3s and they both shoot pretty good from the factory. I've had the one for four years and the 2nd one about 3 years now. Even though they shoot pretty good, I still suspect that they shift zero just slightly over time, and that's something that I think a good bedding job can help prevent. Before I go out to hunt I'll check the zero on the rifles and more than once I've had to make minor adjustments to correct the zero.

If you examine a Tikka T3 with the plastic tupperware type stock, you'll see an aluminum or steel plate (recoil lug) bedded in the bottom of the plastic stock. That recoil lug then protrudes up into a slot in the bottom of the receiver. To me, it looks like the recoil lug can shift slightly within the stock. It's not held rigid to the stock like a recoil lug on a Rem 700 pinned between the receiver and the barrel. Tikkas also come in laminated stocks. With a laminated stock, I suppose one could first glue the recoil lug firmly and rigidly into the stock with bedding compound, but the recoil lug then just fits up into a slot cut into the base of the receiver and I'm not sure how one would go about getting a perfect bedded fit (within that narrow slot) against the front of the recoil lug.

So if anyone has ever bedded a Tikka T3, or even examined one, I too would be interested in hearing how you did it, or how you would propose to do it.
 
Tikka Lover,
I'm shooting a 270 wsm with factory 150 gr. remington accutips (which remington is not making this year - I have one box left) I have two of these guns. One shoots 3/4 of an inch and the other 1/4. I don't reload yet but I'm going to start and try to match what I get from these remington cartridges since I can't buy them any more. I think the accutips are really hornady sst's. Just guessing since they both have the same BC's . I've read good things about Magpro with 270 wsm's. That's what I'm going to try first.


Hey PSTIMAC,

What caliber is your gun and what is your handload recipe to get those tiny groups. Thanks
 
After seeing a few pics of the Tikka and the stock what i would do if it were my gun is make a recoil lug out of steel and TIG weld it to the action , remove a sizeable amout of material from the stock hwere the recoil lug used to be and fill this area with bedding compound then bed the action like any other properly built gun.

Before any body freaks out about welding on an action let me tell you that it can be done safely and easly if your a decient welder , the heat build up will not be any more than if you left it out in the sun , probably less.
 
After seeing a few pics of the Tikka and the stock what i would do if it were my gun is make a recoil lug out of steel and TIG weld it to the action , remove a sizeable amout of material from the stock hwere the recoil lug used to be and fill this area with bedding compound then bed the action like any other properly built gun.

Before any body freaks out about welding on an action let me tell you that it can be done safely and easly if your a decient welder , the heat build up will not be any more than if you left it out in the sun , probably less.


That is a great suggestion!! I am glad I posted this, that is exactly what I am going to do. I guess it helps that I am a welder by trade=)
 
Welded Recoil Lug

I thought of that but I didn't think it would be safe to weld a steel recoil lug onto the action. But I've never tig welded before either. That would create a typical recoil-lugged action and no problems from there. Thanks for your post James. I was hoping someone would follow up with a suggestion / recommendation.
 
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