Caliber opinions for build

.270 WSM, with 1-8 Twist, 24 inch Bbl and,.. 175 Matrix, Sierra TGK's or, 170 EOL,.. Bergers !
Tikka T-3 ,.. The Perfect 7.5 - 7 3/4 Pound "Mountain Rifle" and getting the "Range" out to, 1,000 yds, IF,.. NEEDED !
WHY chamber for an almost obsolete Round ( 7 WSM ) that, has practically NO, Brass "choices" ????
 
Last edited:
Bumping this to the top. Been thinking about this more since hunting season is getting closer.
Due to current availability of brass my options are limited to something new. I do have 100 pieces of Nosler 7mm Rem mag brass and the factory tikka barrel with a 9.5 twist rate. Thought about switching back to that and selling all the parts, pieces from the 6.5 MAX. Thoughts?
The 7mm Rem Mag is a good Cartridge,.. BUT,. usually needs, a 26" Barrel to get, 3,000 + FPS out of it.
I liked my 7mm RM but, HATED the 26" Bbl as seemed to catch on, every Branch, in the woods when walking, the Game Trails.
You might try, the 154 grain Horn. InterBonds, or, 150 gr. NBT'S with some, IMR 7828 or, BETTER YET, the 168 gain Berger HVLD'S if they "shoot" well in YOUR 9.5 twist Barrel.
I shoot, a Tikka T-3, 24" bbl., in .270 WSM with,140 gr Classic Hunters going 3,185 FPS to keep the Recoil, reasonable / Fun to shoot and Practice with,..
in an, UN-Braked rifle. Good luck with your choice and let us know about, your "progress" !
The 7 mm RM, is a GOOD "choice" with, the "Right Bullet" over 150 grains and 24" Bbl length, Minimum, using 4350- 7828 "Burn Rate", Powders to, burn in 24" ! There are many 7 mm Elk Hunters using, the 168 HVLD's with,.. Awesome success !
 
Last edited:
Bumping this to the top. Been thinking about this more since hunting season is getting closer.
Due to current availability of brass my options are limited to something new. I do have 100 pieces of Nosler 7mm Rem mag brass and the factory tikka barrel with a 9.5 twist rate. Thought about switching back to that and selling all the parts, pieces from the 6.5 MAX. Thoughts?
Jason sorry if I missed it, but I reread back thru the thread and am trying to track the method behind your madness with wanting to ditch the 6.5 that you presently have?

Many thanks for indulging me this
 
Jason sorry if I missed it, but I reread back thru the thread and am trying to track the method behind your madness with wanting to ditch the 6.5 that you presently have?

Many thanks for indulging me this
Part of the problem is I've researched different cartridges for this build so much but yet not enough at the same time.
Didn't read into the fine print claims of the 6.5 max in terms of velocity with certain powders that were not temp stable and hard on throat erosion/barrel life.
I'm about 400fps slower than claimed with the 156 Berger. Didn't have similar data for the 131 hammer at the time to compare. I have some room to go with more powder but in not sure it's 400fps worth.
I stopped testing because I felt like I was waisting components, which are limited.
 
Part of the problem is I've researched different cartridges for this build so much but yet not enough at the same time.
Didn't read into the fine print claims of the 6.5 max in terms of velocity with certain powders that were not temp stable and hard on throat erosion/barrel life.
I'm about 400fps slower than claimed with the 156 Berger. Didn't have similar data for the 131 hammer at the time to compare. I have some room to go with more powder but in not sure it's 400fps worth.
I stopped testing because I felt like I was waisting components, which are limited.
Have you called Rich and reviewed your load development? 400 fps is like the difference between 308 and 300 Weatherby!

Something unreasonable going on here. Either chrony is wonky or your powder type is way off for case size.
 
Have you called Rich and reviewed your load development? 400 fps is like the difference between 308 and 300 Weatherby!

Something unreasonable going on here. Either chrony is wonky or your powder type is way off for case size.

I have, that's why I mentioned the "fine print". Most of the velocity claimed and posted about of various forums was with 26+ barrel lengths and temperature sensitive powers. I have about 7 pounds of H1000 that took almost a year to collect just for this rifle. My hunts can range from 30 degrees up to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. He says to keep increasing power charge but its at the limit of being compressed and I can't see how probably one more grain will net that much speed increase.
I'm using a Magnetospeed chronograph.
 
Why are you apprehensive to compress your loads?
A compressed load is not dangerous, it will not change how the powder behaves and put you over max pressure.
I also don't understand why you want to move away from the 6.5.
I run a few 6.5's, from the 6.5x47 Lapua to 3 264WM's and a 6.5WSM that is in the works presently.
Also, those bandying about a minimum foot pounds for ANY animal is just HOT AIR.
Bullets don't kill by ENERGY, they kill by destroying tissue and disrupting the CNS from velocity and bullet mushroom cavitation through said tissue.
I have taken NZ elk every year with a 25-05, 6.5x47 and a 264WM, not one of them complained, they either fell over, stood there then fell over or took a few steps and then fell over. In fact, those kills have been more spectacular than taking them with bigger cals like 30, 33 or even 37 cal cartridges.
With the correct bullet, I like the Nosler 142g ABLR at present, the 6.5's have no trouble taking large game. The Swedes have been shooting Moose for eons with a 6.5x55 with bullets like the Lapua Scenar, Oryx by Norma and others in various weights.
To be honest, after setting up my latest 264WM for the 156g Berger EOL, I wish I hadn't seeing as though I can't buy any!
Don't get me wrong, I hunt with 270's, 7mm's, 300's, 338's, 375's and even 416's, but this notion of requiring a certain amount of energy is just horse poo.
Use what you got! The animal will never know that your speeds are below what you think you should be getting.

Cheers.
 
Top