Buying the right equipment the first time? Advise wanted!!!

Not trying to hi jack the thread but I have never tumbled any of my brass. For you guys that tumble brass do you think it helps in the quest for accuracy or is it a cosmetic thing?

That is a good question. I guess it depends entirely on hoiw you like your handloads served up. I like mine pretty so I tumble. I even tumble after loading to remove any case lube but thats been discussed on here before with definite sides.

I have a penchant for once fired mil brass in LC headstamp so they need to be cleaned.

.....additionally, this forum as a whole seems to be hooked on Imperial sizing wax. I equate that to ear wax as far as worth is concerned. I'm completely hooked on Hornady one shot case lube in the spray can besides, I want to do my part to deplete the ozone layer with aersol cans. Never had one stuck case or any issue with one shot.

A Rock Chucker is fine for everything but 50 BMG. Not enough throar for that.
 
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I've never researched the forester co ax press before but it does seem interesting the way the dies snap in and out. I don't want to start a ****ing match over whose equipment is "the best" and so far you guys have kept it respectful so thankyou. If anyone has had any bad experiences with the forester press I'd like to hear from you. I did not see anyone mention a Redding press. I've been told the Big Boss II will suit me well as I'm sure many presses would but I have to choose one. Any comments on the Boss II and is there much difference between it and the Rock Chucker? Also no mention of a turret press which would also make switching dies a snap. Overkill? What am I missing?

Thanks guys!!!
 
With the co-ax press it's not just the way they snap in and out. The dual rods and S jaws allow the case and die to self align. You don't need shell holders. You can use shell holders with an adapter if you wish. The turrent presses flex. Not a problem with pistol cartridges but not good for big, long range , rifle loading. The gripe about the co-ax press is the standard handle will not clear long case seating dies with micrometers on top , but if you get the long handle option it will clear most all of them. It really is a nice press.
 
I've never researched the forester co ax press before but it does seem interesting the way the dies snap in and out. I don't want to start a ****ing match over whose equipment is "the best" and so far you guys have kept it respectful so thankyou. If anyone has had any bad experiences with the forester press I'd like to hear from you. I did not see anyone mention a Redding press. I've been told the Big Boss II will suit me well as I'm sure many presses would but I have to choose one. Any comments on the Boss II and is there much difference between it and the Rock Chucker? Also no mention of a turret press which would also make switching dies a snap. Overkill? What am I missing?

Thanks guys!!!

the way the dies snap in and out of the slot means little except for ease of use. The serious plus with the Co-Ax is alignment and staying square. They used to make a version that used conventional shell holders, but that ended in late 1977, and even then their priming device used them for a year or two longer (actually their shell holder has a bigger bore than the normal ones we think of, but look nearly identical). The other major advantage to that style of press is that the ram does not torque during travel. By not using a conventional shell holder and simply blocking the face of the case on the bolster plate you eleminate any error with the shell holder being seperate (the only thing a Forster shell holder is there for is to pull the case out of the die). The other factor that many of us tend tooverlook when buying a press is the direction of power and the mount. The Forster will work just fine on a 1" thick piece of plywood. Many guys mount there's on a 2 x 8 C clamped down to a bench top. The others really want a heavy bench top or better yet be mounted to a steel plate. Mine sets atop an aluminum riser (for ergo reasons only). Power wise; you have to goto a hydraulic rammed press to get more power than the Co-Ax. What I don't like about the Forster is kinda silly, but important to me anyway. I build cases a little bit, and it's kinda unfriendly about sawing a quarter inch off a parent case while in the press. For that I use a small RCBS Partner. I also think it's easier to pull bullets with the RCBS (we all sooner or later will have to pull bullets). I do some serious case forming, and the power is there, but I also prefer to trim the cases with the RCBS. I also kinda wish that Forster would redesign the trunion and the handle a little bit for better clearence with dies, plus add another half inch of travel as an option for some of us (I sure don't need that)

And while whining and crying about this press and that press, let me add here that I almost never neck size anymore with a conventional press. I pretty much have gone over to Wilson type dies for all that work these days. I tried four or five different arbor presses, and found that I liked the feel of the small K&M better than the others. That press uses a toggel & link system that seems to give me a better feel when seating a bullet. It may just be me, but that's the feeling I got when I tried that one out. Plus this one is fairly cheap.
gary
 
Richard and others,

When you guys suggested the RCBS Chargemaster were you talking about just the scale or the combo with powder dump. Sorry for any silly questions I might ask but not real smart about this stuff yet.

Thanks again,
Jason
 
howdy again. there are no silly or stupid questions. The only silly or stupid questions are the ones never asked. only a stupid person knows it all. never quit asking, never quit learning. it may cost you your freedom if you do.
 
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Richard and others,

When you guys suggested the RCBS Chargemaster were you talking about just the scale or the combo with powder dump. Sorry for any silly questions I might ask but not real smart about this stuff yet.

Thanks again,
Jason

I have the combo RCBS Chargemaster 1500. It dumps good charges about as fast as I can seat bullets.

I don't use the plastic shroud and I keep anything static'y away. ..calibrate often and watch for drift.

I also have a Sartorious scale as a cross-check and for precision work and competition loads.

-- richard
 
I have the combo RCBS Chargemaster 1500. It dumps good charges about as fast as I can seat bullets.

I don't use the plastic shroud and I keep anything static'y away. ..calibrate often and watch for drift.

I also have a Sartorious scale as a cross-check and for precision work and competition loads.

-- richard

questions:

* how long does it take to drop something like 45 grains of 4350 into a +/- window of 1.5 tenths grain or .3 grain total window? How about the same with something like 2015BR or 3031 but say 30 grains?

* You spoke of drift, is this common? Or a rare thing?

* How easy is it to clean verses the older one?
gary
 
Does anybody know where I can get a forester co-ax press all the standard places are out of stock. Thanks, kasey
 
Does anybody know where I can get a forester co-ax press all the standard places are out of stock. Thanks, kasey


I called Forster today and they are shipping presses as we type. He said some places have longer backorder times because he guessed certain stores have to fill backorders before able to list as stock on hand. If you want one you could backorder somewhere and hope.
 
questions:

* how long does it take to drop something like 45 grains of 4350 into a +/- window of 1.5 tenths grain or .3 grain total window? How about the same with something like 2015BR or 3031 but say 30 grains?

* You spoke of drift, is this common? Or a rare thing?

* How easy is it to clean verses the older one?
gary

Gary,

For starters, I don't doubt that others may have better or worse experiences with the same product. These are electronic devices and aren't necessarily made to the highest standards. Balance beams are pretty simple and trustworthy.

I just timed one 50g sample of h4831sc that came out to ~18 seconds.

I've used it with Varget, RL22, H4350, and one or 2 others with similar results.

If I bump the table, it'll sometimes read a tenth or 2 over/under and it has an indicator to remind you that it's over or under. In which case, I thump the tube to drop another granule or grab a pinch from the pan and toss it back in the hopper.

Drift hasn't been a problem. But, I try to be mindful and keep an eye out.

If it's been sitting, stable, level, consistent temp, I don't notice much drift. By notice, I mean that I watch the reading when I remove the pan to fill a case and it should go to -142.3. On occasion, it'll be 1/10g over/under. If that happens, I weigh another charge and if it does it a second time, I recalibrate.

I usually get through a batch of 50 without recalibrating.

If I'm sorting bullets, I keep one as a control and check it every now and again.

If I'm loading competition ammo, I use the Chargemaster first, and then set the pan on the Sartorious which is suppossed to be precise to +/- .02 grains. You have to be a lot more anal with that one to stay within that kind of precision. But, it can be done. And, it may or may not help with your groups.

It's pretty easy to clean. My biggest challenge is the small size of my loading bench. I have to make room, slide it around to the edge, and then drain powder back in the bottle. But, I try to plan ahead so that I'm not switching powder constantly.

I also don't try bunches of powder/bullet combos. I find something that's known to be trustworthy e.g. 6br+107SMK+Varget, or 6.5x284+142SMK+h4831sc. If it won't shoot something like that, something's not right. ...although, I'll admit I may miss out a special load every now and then.

Thanks
Richard
 
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