i been thinking about getting the 8x32x44 for my 223 rem. i was wondering is this scope pretty clear. also would be a good scope for long range varmint shootting do the make sun shades for them cabelas as a good price if there any good
I love my 8x32x44 Burris. It is very clear and bright. Get it with the target turrets so you can adjust easier. Only problem is it only has 22" of total adjustment so you should get the signature rings and use the .020 offset inserts so you can use all of the up adjustment, you'll need it for those 600yd+ shots.
Depends on what long range varmints mean in your book.
Tommy, fellow Kalifornicator (me) says you will generally get *less* elevation capability in higher magnification scopes than lesser versions. Cabela's has a nice catalog and decent prices, but you can usually do better if you shop around.
Dealer cost on the Burris Signature 8-32 with 'ballistic mildot' reticle, Burris product #200861, is $484.90. But that scope has a measly 22 MOA of internal elevation, so it would be VERY challenging to use at long range unless you went with a tapered base AND used the reticle for holdover. I say don't buy it, with no offense to my pal Wayne who posted just above!
Here's what you gotta do: Decide first on your budget -- how much can you spend? If it is not enough to get something good, then don't buy a half-*** scope -- wait until you can get what you want/need.
Once you know your budget, then decide what you want in your scope. Magnification vs. internal elevation, and so on.
Shop the web, and talk with competitive shooters in your area, not just the shmoe who uncases Grampa's deer rifle once a year and fires 7 rounds at a paper plate at 75 yards and says "let's go huntin'!"...
Your .223 is not really adequate to shoot much past 400y, and would require very specific loads and barrel twist to do so. Decide what you're realistically gonna do, and then get the best stuff you can afford to do it with. You're a young guy -- get some experience and spread the word in your peer group after you learn how things work out first hand.
High magnification is overrated once you get past 20x or so. You, the human being component, will not be able to hold any more still using a 42x scope vs. a 3x scope. Think about that! But you'll be able to see things far away with a 24x that a 4x won't do. If you envision shooting to 600y and farther some day (using an appropriate caliber), my suggestion is get yourself a Sightron (yeah, some of you have heard this before) in 4-16x42 or 6-24x42 with mil-dot reticle. They have a reasonable amount of up for 1" tube scopes, and then you can use the reticle for holdover (and/or mount the scope on a tapered base to gain some elevation).
$300 or so on the barely used market. Put a WTB (want to buy) ad out there and you might be surprised.
Another very good value for your type of shooting is the Weaver Grand Slam 6.5-20. Don't know how much 'up' it has, but optics are excellent, and they can often be had for about $300 on the barely used market.
Tommy, All the 8-32x Burris scopes come with a sunshade, as do the 6-24s with the exception of the model with the 'Plex' reticle, the Sigs. really don't need a sunshade for the sun, as they are excellent in the flare contol dept. they might help for heat mirage from the barrel, though, I don't think you need or want to go up to 32x since mirage is going to play havoc at longer ranges especially, but that's up to you, I use a 6-24x Sig. for my 223, and when the sun is out from 10am to 3pm, mirage is horrendous, I've actually been using a lower power setting on purpose to cut down on the mirage, the 3 high power Sigs. I've got are very clear, I'd go with the 6-24x, but that's just me, but sure, you can always turn it down if you get the 8-32x, Midway and Natchez have pretty good prices, Jay
No offence taken and you are very correct in pointing out that there are better choices than the scope in question. I should have also pointed that out but was only commenting on the scope he was asking about, seeing that I have the same one.
A 6x24 would definetly be a better choice.
I have a 8-32x44 and would agree with the previous posts. I maily shoot 5-600yards with it and would say that I usually had the power set around 22. Unless the conditions were good I rarely used the full 32. The actual range of my scope is 28" of adjustment. To answer your clarity question, the scope is very clear to my eyes. Overall I think you could do better for the money.
A newbie to the 'Board', and read with interest this subject.
Just wanted to throw in some info adressing situations/specs, then the Burris product.
Limited adjustment range-in this case 22" on a 1" tube.
That's a good thing for a designer to do. There are optical performance limitations on all optics since physics & chemistry are the same for everyone. The limited adjustments or 'stops' are purposely design/manufactured in to keep the sight picture resolution high.
The more adjustments are made....the lower the quality of light transmission thru the tube especially at longer ranges.
This is why it is good to use elevated bases, or rings again using the word 'designed' because it improves optical performance.
Mirage is a good thing to be able to see.
>Tells you of glass & optial quality.
>Since it affects shooting, what you can't see, you don't know how or what to do about it.
>Mirage of barrel??? Sun shade(s), special Mirage Tubes, barrel coverings, or just simply longer times between shots can all help.
Range Mirage??? Being able to "see" where it is, can help determine when to take a shot, or even what direction to shoot in. Ie., say one's Prarie Dog hunting and at 10 O'clock (off shooters left-not time wise)there is alot of mirage due to ground rock formation. But at 2 O'clock (shooters right) there is none. Shooting to the right could be better at that time. As the sun travels, it can/will change.
Turning down the magnification only hides what influences shot quality. It's better to "see" so you know what can be done. If mirage isn't present, or is minor, and a lower magnifacation is easier for you...at that time, then reduce it.
Light Gathering- simply doesn't exist. It's a term that in my 'minds eye' I see little arms extending out from the objective area, scooping light photons into the lens.
Would like to see more usage of, "Light approach, and Light Transmission".
Burris uses a more recessed objective lens which helps to "control" light thru the approach. Almost like a mini sun shade.
Light Collector is a very neat & functional patented device that acts just like an internal sunshade'. Certainly makes sight pictures sharper.
The Signature, and Black Diamond models are vastly underated due to their past sales literature that was lacking in better explainations.