Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
Apparently you haven't read this whole thread? Oh, and not having problems anymore once getting away from the Signature rings.
Burris 34mm Signature Rings Fiasco- BEWARE
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Apparently you haven't read this whole thread? Oh, and not having problems anymore once getting away from the Signature rings.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
Everyone else including me, I have several sets, does not have your problem. This includes Burris techs. So who's doing it wrong?
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
We get it. Anybody who does not share your bad experience with these rings is wrong, and you are the only one who knows how to run a torque wrench.
Bye.
LOL! Easy there fella. I was asking a legit question...no need to jump to conclusions. Oh, and thanks for the valuable contribution to the thread. Bye
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
So I'll ask the question again that no one seems interested in answering. What is your torque down method? Not being smart...asking a legit question.
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
I love the design too, maybe if they used some kind of aluminum inserts the squish/crush wouldn't be there. Believe me, I really wanted them to work. I was thinking along the lines of weak scope tube as well. Then...the new scope did the exact same thing. It very well could be that other scope brands put up with more clamp load than the Burris.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
20 in lbs.
I tighten all finger tight and then use a tourque wrench to tighten to 20. I do this with 1" thru 34mm rings.
I apply a little locktite to screws and to the bottom ring. No slippage, no parallax issues, dial my scopes to 1200 yards, no problems. All bases are bedded to the action. Everything is done for stress free scope installation.
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
Thanks. So I assume one click on the torque wrench for each screw? Or do you follow up after that?
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
I use the old school tourque wrench with the dial and pointer that indicates thru flex. Works well, and has been proven to be a reliable style.
I follow up with each screw until they all indicate 20#. As you probably know, once you tighten one, the others loosen up until they all reach the load same load.
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. See, this is why I was asking the question. Sounds like you're going until they all accept 20 in./lbs and quit tightening. This is essentially what I did too. Although when I did this if I went past 15 in./lbs I had big problems. Is your far ring fairly close to the scope bell or closer to the turret?
Another home remedy is to degrease the ring screws and holes with alcohol, acetone, etc. Then instead of putting the blue loctite on the threads, just put a small amount around the head of the screw. This seems to do a good job of stopping the screw from backing out. It allows accurate torque, as companies usually recommend torque settings based on dry screws, for rings anyways. It also allows the removal and reuse of the screws without having to clean the clean off the dried blue loctite.
I find that the middle screw backing out of the rings in the OP's problem interesting...
I find that the middle screw backing out of the rings in the OP's problem interesting...
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
Mine are spaced as far as possible. One near the objective bell, the other near the ocular bell.
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
I didn't just have a problem with the middle screw. All 6 of the far ring screws would become loose to what appeared to be the same degree. The more rounds fired the looser they would be. This happened 3-4 times. I like your idea of loctite around the screw heads.
Tumbleweed
Well-Known Member
Same here. Crazy that the problem repeated with a second set of rings and the second scope for me. Don't know how to reconcile that but I'm glad they're working good for you. I love the design and really wished they would have worked for me.
LDHunter
Well-Known Member
I've been using Burris Signature rings since they were introduced and recently starting buying the XTR versions and LOVE them.
Although I've never owned a scope with a 34mm tube I'll share my experiences anyway.
I've NEVER had even one problem with any Burris rings BUT have had several scopes that didn't like to be compressed very much near the erector controls. I'm not sure I can remember the brands of those scopes because I haven't had that problem in the last few years but I keep buying better and better optics as my eyes age... LOL
I never liked Burris scopes but my experience with them was admittedly very limited. I think the problems the OP reported are scope related but I'll also share a suspicion. I think that some scopes are fragile in the tubes and that problem can be exacerbated by Signature rings. I think the clamping they subject the scope to is slightly uneven due to the floating plastic inserts and that might be affecting some fragile scopes but isn't evident on scopes that have sturdier tubes and/or erectors.
That's just a theory backed up with a lot of trial and error and moving scopes around a lot and using several different brands over the years.
My Leupold Mark 4 scopes and my Nightforce scopes seem to be so bulletproof that I could probably mount them with chain binders and they'd be fine. Most other scopes I have around here are a bit more sensitive and I try to stay away from the rings being very close to the erectors and overtightening.
Just one man's opinion that has tried to learn from his many mistakes over many many years of being too bullheaded to ever give up in the pursuit of accuracy.
By the way... I've never used a torque wrench to mount scopes but I DO own two different inch pound wrenches and use them for torquing action screws religiously. When I do tighten scope ring screws I cross torque until every screw "crinks" just right and the same as the others. That can take a lot of time and I try to be patient. I also retighten after the first couple groups I fire after mounting the scope and then about 100 rounds later although that seems to be completely unnecessary .
Although I've never owned a scope with a 34mm tube I'll share my experiences anyway.
I've NEVER had even one problem with any Burris rings BUT have had several scopes that didn't like to be compressed very much near the erector controls. I'm not sure I can remember the brands of those scopes because I haven't had that problem in the last few years but I keep buying better and better optics as my eyes age... LOL
I never liked Burris scopes but my experience with them was admittedly very limited. I think the problems the OP reported are scope related but I'll also share a suspicion. I think that some scopes are fragile in the tubes and that problem can be exacerbated by Signature rings. I think the clamping they subject the scope to is slightly uneven due to the floating plastic inserts and that might be affecting some fragile scopes but isn't evident on scopes that have sturdier tubes and/or erectors.
That's just a theory backed up with a lot of trial and error and moving scopes around a lot and using several different brands over the years.
My Leupold Mark 4 scopes and my Nightforce scopes seem to be so bulletproof that I could probably mount them with chain binders and they'd be fine. Most other scopes I have around here are a bit more sensitive and I try to stay away from the rings being very close to the erectors and overtightening.
Just one man's opinion that has tried to learn from his many mistakes over many many years of being too bullheaded to ever give up in the pursuit of accuracy.
By the way... I've never used a torque wrench to mount scopes but I DO own two different inch pound wrenches and use them for torquing action screws religiously. When I do tighten scope ring screws I cross torque until every screw "crinks" just right and the same as the others. That can take a lot of time and I try to be patient. I also retighten after the first couple groups I fire after mounting the scope and then about 100 rounds later although that seems to be completely unnecessary .
