Bullet puller? What do you have?

One note on the Hornady puller....I screw down the die till I can see it underneath the press and screw down the collet leaving plenty of room for the bullet. I run my cartridge up until the bullet is in the collet but with about 1/8" from the brass and then screw down the collet. This way I know I'm not grabbing brass (had that problem early on) and can adjust tension of the collet on the bullet. Then I hold tension on the handle just enough to snug the collet enough to hold the bullet while I run the ram down. Most times I'm hard pressed to see that I ever used a collet on the bullet and I'll shoot it just the same as any other. If you just run the cartridge up and lock down the cam without really checking how much tension you have on the bullet to start, I can see how you have the chance to really mangle a bullet and I wouldn't use that one for any kind of accuracy either. Easy situation to avoid though.
 
I started with a kinetic and used it until I broke it. After that, I went to the RCBS collet die. I like it especially if I have a lot of bullets to pull. But I have to admit that the Grip-N-Pull looks interesting.
 
I use a kinetic puller. Not sure why guys are saying that powder is a mess. I tuck a scrunched up paper towel in the end to protect the bullet tip, put my reloading funnel on top of the powder jug and pour the contents of the puller into the funnel. Pick the bullet out of the funnel and the powder goes into the powder jug. Quick clean and simple.
I had a grip n pull but couldn't get rid of it fast enough. Bullets are way to expensive to be using it. It should be called the wreck n pull instead. Scars up bullets way to easy
 
I use the Hornady collet puller as well. Never had anything else and never wished I had a different tool. If you really lock it down hard you can put some pretty serious marks on a bullet (happened some early in the process) but now I tend to have a feel for how much grip I need so I screw down the die to where I need it and hold the cam with appropriate pressure in left land while retracting the ram/shell with the other and there's barely a mark on the bullet. If you just shove it in and lock down the cam you CAN deform the bullet, but as with anything reloading related, knowing your tools well helps make things go smoothly. One note, I've used my .270 collet for .257 bullets, so don't assume you have to get collets for every single bullet diameter you have. .458 would easily work for .452 as well, just screw the handle piece (in the case of the Hornady down a bit extra.
Just my thoughts on using a collet that has been designed for a larger caliber. Even as little a .005" of over tightening can result in a collet with sprung fingers. This will result in an out of round tolerance which has been known to deform bullets. Not to mention it can also lead to a damaging of the bullets copper metal jacket and may also damage the very core of the bullet. I would suggest that you honestly evaluate a pulled projectile in order to determine if your bullet is reusable or now just scrap. You may just find that it is easier to get a collet with the correct ID. Please I'm not saying that you can't do things your way just my thoughts as a tool and die machinist with over 40 years experience. Now mind you the collets designed for bullet removal are nowhere near as robust as say a collet designed for a lathe, lets just say a Hardinge #5C. As such you must treat them a little gentler.
 
The most use I get out of the inertia puller is during seating. Occasionally I will get one a couple of thou too deep (cbto). One quick tap puts the bullet way out where I can take another gentler "stab" at it. I use only one press and by using a shell holder in my inertia puller it only takes a few seconds to set up.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top