Building a barrel vise

[70oldsracer]

I'm in the process of building a new barrel vise. I built one a while ago just like the wheeler engineering one, except I was using aluminum blocks instead of the wood blocks. The vise worked great, but I want to make one so I can use tapered bushings. I have some 2" x 2" steel and I'm going to bore a 1 1/2" hole through the center of the top and bottom so I can use 1 1/2" aluminum bushings. My question is, what is the best way to figure out the correct taper of the barrel so I can set the compound on the lathe to bore the bushings? I was also thinking of just making some new aluminum blocks and mill a V in the top and the bottom. Just not sure there would be enough contact to remove stubborn barrels. Let me know what you guys think.
Here is my current vise when I removed my mauser barrel.

 

[birdiemc]

I'm sure the machinists have a better approach, but in the construction world if I were to have to figure that out I would probably cut 2 flat pieces of wood and clamp them on opposite of the tube.(metal would probably be better in this case). Probably drill holes in the 4 corners of each so I could bolt them together, then tighten them down while measuring to ensure they stay parallel. Once that jig is rigged up. It's just a matter of measuring the distance between the 2 parallel surfaces at both ends at points a known distance apart and doing some trig to find the angle.
Like I said, probably a better way but that might work.
Come to think of it, using a micrometer to measure 2 points on the OD of the barrel a known distance apart gets you the same thing a lot easier. Repeat 3 or 4 times to verify then cut a bushing to see.

 

[MNbogboy]

Birdiemc got it right.
1. Measure 2 diameters at 10" apart
2 . Subtract smaller diameter from larger diameter.
2. Divide the difference by 2.
3. Divide that number by 10
4. Above gives taper per inch.
The "inverse sin" on calculator of the taper per inch will give the angle.

Example: 1.06 ( large diameter )
- .75 (small diameter)
= .31 (difference)
÷ 2
= .155 (actual taper from c-line)
÷ 10 (distance between dia's)
= .0155 (actual taper in 1 inch)

ASin(.0155) = .888....degrees
Hope this helps.

 

[jrock]

Joe Pie has a good vid on dialing in precise angles.

 

[70oldsracer]

Thanks, he’s got some really good videos.

 

[70oldsracer]

I started building the vise and decided to use 3/4" bolts instead of 1/2". I'm wondering if I should use 3/4" threaded rod and nuts instead of the bolts.

 

[birdiemc]

Lots of folks suggest using grade 8 bolts.

 

[MNbogboy]

I started building the vise and decided to use 3/4" bolts instead of 1/2". I'm wondering if I should use 3/4" threaded rod and nuts instead of the bolts.

Studs will definitely reduce thread wear in the bottom block, while easing the torque required to do the job. Fastenal lists a B7 in 3/4-16 about $85/3ft. B7 should be all the strength you need.
Good plan.

 

[70oldsracer]

I have grade 8 3/4” rods at work, that’s what we use to attach our precast panels to a building. It’s 3/4”-10 though. I know the 16 tpi would be better, but it’s free. Should do just fine

 

[Ckgworks]

I was just looking at Greatscott voices the other day.....their lug notch looks really handy for factory barrels on a 2 point vice. Might be a nice feature to incorporate on a home build......

 

[70oldsracer]

I was just looking at Greatscott voices the other day.....their lug notch looks really handy for factory barrels on a 2 point vice. Might be a nice feature to incorporate on a home build......

That looks like a nice vise, not sure I have the skills to incorporate the notch for the lug on my new vise. Before I set up my new vise in the mill to bore the hole for the bushings, I decided to change my old vise by making some aluminum inserts. This should now work good for barrels that have already been removed once before and Savage barrels. I used some 1 1/2" aluminum square and just milled a V in each block, this way I can hold different size barrels. I also milled some notches on each side of the blocks so they locate themselves on the springs.

 

[Ckgworks]

I hear you.....But shoot if you got that far I bet you do..... You wouldn't necessarily have to mill in the nice slot like they have, you could also do it by making your bottom block with the notch in it, thin enough that the lug would over lap your bottom plate. Than weld a tab in the correct spot on the base that would catch the lug, stopping rotation.... You could also mill it into your bottom plate if you had a mill. Just some thoughts to stew on if anyone else is reading this and building a vice.........

 

[Muddyboots]

I like the aluminum idea and switched the oak out for blocks of teak that I had from a boat project and found they seem to grab the barrel tighter and easier than the oak too. I will use some old lead pipe for next barrel as bushing material to see if the lead on barrel improves grip. But I just took off a Remington barrel that spun off easier that anyone could imagine using the teak so maybe don't fix something that isn't broken?

 

[59FLH]

Be careful machining the notch in the
Barrel vise, if you run into a lug that's pinned to the receiver it's a problem.