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Build or have built, modify or have modified

Rogmay

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
223
I'm new to this web site so I thought would ask for some input, I have a tikka t3 7mm stock rifle with bedded action, 24" barrel, leupold 6.5-20, custom 1000 yard turret to my hand loads, I shoot berger 168gr bullets, it shoots anywhere from 1/2 to 1in moa, depends on the day. Never shot it much past 800yrds because it starts to open up. Big question to you is, should I look for a custom barrel and stock for a $1000, or would I be better off spending $2000 on a custom gun, put a nicer scope on it and move up to the 180 or 195 bergers. I've shot on a few rifle teams when I was younger so I'm not a stranger to shooting, just not familiar with the custom items or brands! Even been reading about the 7mm LRM, that's peeked my attention. This would be my hunting and occasionally competition gun with friends. Any thoughts you gents might have for this long range rookie would be greatly appreciated, thanks for your time.
 
Hi Rogmay and welcome to the forums. I haven't been long range shooting long myself but I've been trolling posts here for years.

First thing I would say to you is if you are not familiar with gunsmithing, don't try to build a rifle yourself. You could seriously injure yourself or others if it's not put together properly.

Using your Tikka action, you could spend anywhere from 1000 to 2000 dollars depending on stock and barrel you choose. I'm not familiar with Tikkas so I can't really talk about them.

When you get into having a custom rifle built from scratch, I would say you are looking at $3000 for a starting point and the sky's the limit after that. I had a 6.5x284 built for me last year which wears a Nightforce NXS scope and it was $6000 when it was finished. I'm having a rifle built in 28 Nosler this year and it's going to be about $7500 with a Nightforce scope on it. Just saying this because I think your price point of $2000 is a bit low. Good luck whichever way you go and keep us updated.
 
Thanks Jack for the reply, I was pretty sure I wasn't going to build but I thought I'd throw it out there! Also what do you think about the Mark 4 scopes?
 
I don't see the point in tearing apart a perfectly good rifle esp if you have invested in a custom turret for it. If you shop around you could easily have a barrel, action, and stock right at or even below $2k depending on what your requirements are.

Action: 400-1000
Barrel: 350
Stock: 600
 
Thanks Ohiohunter, now I just need to sit down and start looking into different set ups! Gotta love spending money on guns! Wife has gave me the ok, just need to spread it out so she doesn't see the grand total!!!
 
I'm new to this web site so I thought would ask for some input, I have a tikka t3 7mm stock rifle with bedded action, 24" barrel, leupold 6.5-20, custom 1000 yard turret to my hand loads, I shoot berger 168gr bullets, it shoots anywhere from 1/2 to 1in moa, depends on the day. Never shot it much past 800yrds because it starts to open up.

This makes me think that the issue with your groups opening up after 800 yards may have more to do with the ES and SD of your hand loads or problems reading and compensating for environmental conditions. I don't think you are going to cure that with a custom rifle or aftermarket upgrades to your existing rifle.

If you want a custom just because, I don't suppose you need a better reason than that. But, if you want said custom as a solution to your issues past 800 yards, I think you are focusing on something that will lighten your wallet rather than solve your underlying problem.

While having the right gear is helpful for long range shooting, you have to have the underlying long range shooting skills for your equipment to make a difference. Before you start throwing money at new gear, you would be better served to use your resources putting rounds down range and honing your skills. My bet is that $2000 worth of range time will make you a better long range marksman than $2000 spent on a custom rifle.
 
Thanks for you input bench racer, but I respecfully disagree, I know everyone can always improve shooting skills throughout there entire life, but I think the problem isn't necessarily me, I truely believe my shooting skills can shoot as good as a lot of people with the right equipment and loads! Thanks again for the post, that's the good part about these forums is that you can take in all opinions and create a better result!
 
If you are able to shoot acceptably out to 800 yards, then your groups are opening up after that distance, the underlying issue isn't your rifle. In the end, what you do to address the issue is your call. It is, afterall, your hard earned money.
 
I have no experience with the Mark 4 scopes. I like my VII and VIII but IMHO I feel Leupold scopes are overpriced for the features you get. I also have a Nightforce NXS, Vortex HS-T, Bushnell 4200, a couple of Nikon Monarchs and a few cheaper scopes. The Nightforce is by far the most expensive scope I have but it's also the best scope I have. Do I need all of the features it has, not really but better to have them and not need them. For real world hunting conditions that include rain, snow, sleet and below freezing temps that cause scopes to fog even when they say they're fog proof, I would pick the Nightforce over any other scope I own.

To clarify my comment about a custom rifle costing more around $3k. I agree that you can find the COMPONENTS to build a rifle for under $2k but you will most likely pay a smith an additional $1k to put it together correctly. I would not suggest someone building a rifle without the proper tools, equipment and knowledge.
 
Bench racer, being new to here, not sure what ES or SD is, thanks.

Extreme Spread and Standard Deviation, both are in regards to velocity. He is suggesting your loads, though hand loads, may not be as consistent as you think. A lot of factors go into getting lower numbers.

What kind of brass do you use and how do you prep them? Do you know how much neck tension you are running?
 
SD can have 2 meanings... There is Standard Deviation, which is regarding your velocity. And there is also Sectional Density, which is in regards to your bullet.
 
Wow, thanks for all the great responses, from bench racer to Ohioman to all of them, all advice has been well taken, I do believe there are a few things I'm going to look at as far as my loads go, I believe I need to be a little more anal with the treatment of my brass before each loading. As far as that goes I'm seating with about .002 in he neck and neck sizing only, not sure the brand on the brass. My velocities are within 20-25 fps on my chrony, let me know if that's an acceptical number. Once again, thanks for all the input.
 
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