Build a rifle for sheep or bears?

I've talked to guides in my area and they say haven't seen a failure with accubonds on elk, I haven't shot an elk with one but shot a elk with a 140 6.5 berger at 3210fps at 485 yards and was not impressed. They work great on deer and antelope but won't shoot another elk with it. I have shot 6 elk with a 165 barnes out of my 300win at 3100 fps and all of them blew straight though. Had a guide tell me that his wife shot her cow elk with a berger, I think 7mm? quartering away, never made it to the vitals and lost the elk. The 215 bergers out of the 300 win or utra mag I hear have great killing power. The problems I hear about the partitions are the front half blows off and the rest just pencils through with not much expansion and a small exit hole
 
Sorry bigngreen. Hijacked your thread. Guess we need to start a different thread!
Too funny...but kinda true. Yet, in a way, this is all still related though, right? He wanted to know if he should gun up for sheep or bears and part of that discussion is what BULLET to shoot out of whatever rifle he decides on.

What I find intriguing is we have all found a bullet (or bullet type) that seems to do it for us and have reasons for not wanting to use another bullet type. That's fine. Healthy discussion on such matters is useful. I'd never heard of a Partition failing, yet you reported one fracturing on the shoulder of a large animal. It's a data point and I appreciate that.

Over the years it seems like I've "learned" that quick expanding bullets (cup & core with lots of lead or a plastic tip) are great on deer and antelope, especially with that classic side view shot through the lungs. Lots of DRT reports.

The homogeneous (Barnes, Hammer, etc.) bullets seem to have a reputation for great penetration, allowing a person to drop a bullet weight (or two) and still drive the thing through the animal. But they tend to not have the 'DRT' rep the more frangible bullets have on light skinned game. Not that they can't produce a DRT moment...they can! It just isn't their primary 'reputation'.

The controlled expansion (bonded) and "H"-mantle type bullets (partition & A-frame) seem to strike a balance between the rapid expansion of the more frangible cup & core bullets with the penetrative qualities of the homogeneous bullets. They produce a lot of DRT moments AND penetrate pretty well. But they are splitting the difference between the other two, not out 'mastering' either of them.

None of this discusses varmint bullets since the conversation is Goats and Bears.

What strikes me is that any particular bullet, at any particular time, might fail miserably, regardless of how well regarded it is, and occasionally the 'wrong' bullet type (cup & core) still manages to do fine killing the big animals they are suppose to 'fail' at these days.

There are no ABSOLUTES in any of this. If an Accubond has been working great for you, are you really going to stop using it because some guy on here said it didn't work great for him? Nope. Until YOU have a failure to perform, you're going to keep going with it. Same for the Barnes guys. And the Hammer guys. And the Partition guys. Because we all have our own experiences and have come to trust a particular bullet type for the job at hand.

Now if a new bullet comes out (the SpeerNoslerBarnes Super Killer) and suddenly a lot of people are reporting it is killing everything like lightning, perhaps we try it ourselves. Or if people report it fails to penetrate and a long tracking job took place every time it was used, perhaps we avoid it like the plague. The beauty is there are always "early adopters" to try new things to give us an idea of how they are working out.

The flip side of that is there are bullets that have been around for 'forever' and we pretty much know and trust how they will perform 98% of the time, which is great for the non-risk-takers in our midst. Something for everyone.

In my reloading closet right now I have Barnes TSX, TTSX, Nosler Partitions & Ballistic Tips, Speer Gold Dots (rifle version), Hornady Interlocks & SSTs, Sierra Game Kings, Speer Grand Slams, and probably something else I'm forgetting. Depending on the caliber I'm using and the game I'm hunting, I'll make a bullet choice I think will get the job done 'best' under the hunting conditions I'm expecting (dense forest? wide open plains?)

None of you guys are likely to change my mind, but I do pay attention to what you write. I file it away. If enough people start to say similar things, it might THEN sway my opinions moving forward. So, again, thanks for sharing your experiences and keeping it civil. I appreciate it.
 
bigngreen, It's amazing at differences that we as hunters experience pertaining to bullet performance. I certainly do not doubt what you have witnessed. Though my experiences, perhaps not as many examples as you may have had, are vastly different.

Your experiences have caused me to attempt to explain the failures you have experienced. The "only" thing that I can visualize causing what happened to you is, this my question! We're you perhaps using the "light for caliber" hype that is often associated with the Barnes Bullets. We have always used what is considered to be a "standard" bullet weight, as though the Barnes' were cup and core. Example: 270 Win. - 140 gr. TSX, .338 WM - 225 X, TSX, & TTSX, .375 270 TSX and most recently the 250 TTSX. The .375 - 250 TTSX has not been proven or disproven yet...not enough data points! So far - so good! memtb
 
Honestly bullet is not really a worry, more best method to deliver said bullet is what I'm tossing back and forth.
Yes! I'm back to your first post:
"I had a rifle planned out on paper that would be on the light side of stupid and probably chambered in a 6.5 SS"
You should do this. It will be awesome. Shoot a Hammer/Barnes/Nosler/Speer/Sierra bullet in it, get your sheep and get back home safely. Pack the 10mm Glock 20 just in case (loaded with Buffalo Bore cast bullets.) BOOM! You're set. Next thread?
 
bigngreen, It's amazing at differences that we as hunters experience pertaining to bullet performance. I certainly do not doubt what you have witnessed. Though my experiences, perhaps not as many examples as you may have had, are vastly different.

Your experiences have caused me to attempt to explain the failures you have experienced. The "only" thing that I can visualize causing what happened to you is, this my question! We're you perhaps using the "light for caliber" hype that is often associated with the Barnes Bullets. We have always used what is considered to be a "standard" bullet weight, as though the Barnes' were cup and core. Example: 270 Win. - 140 gr. TSX, .338 WM - 225 X, TSX, & TTSX, .375 270 TSX and most recently the 250 TTSX. The .375 - 250 TTSX has not been proven or disproven yet...not enough data points! So far - so good! memtb

The failure is from not being able to run a heavy enough bullet fast enough to overcome the frontal area that is normal function for a Barnes, their copper alloy is very resistant to shearing petals of which means a huge amount of resistance to penetration and they over turn and change direction. The 165 and 168 weights in 30 cal magnums are what I've shot most with though I've ran 6.5 and 270's also. I've had them come out of elk all different directions! It's important to keep the RPM's up to try to keep them tracking true so if I use weights that are marginal stability I saw worse issues. It's just a momentum vs resistance issue, that's where the Hammers have absolutely been awesome, the front will shed if needed so the shank can keep tracking through and the large frag from the front often times exits as well behind the shank leaving a shot gun pattern through the lungs and exit, so much more lethal a wound channel than a bullet that won't shed weight!!! I would not have seen what was happening in the mountains because the elk are gone at the shot, not evidence is left, on the fields you can see everything that happens and it was eye opening in a big way!!
A relative shoots a 375 and and I had to shoot several elk for him because while they blew through they did not create a large enough wound channel unless crushing both shoulders and getting bone frag everywhere, I chucked up the bullets in my lathe and modified them and then they started flattening elk!!
I think many times different bullets work for different guys, our rifles, terrain, game animals and shot placement is different so finding that bullet that delivers the results in one shot per animal is the best for a given individual, I have friends who have a bad time with Bergers while I pole axe everything I look at with them, it's all good as long as guys are open to trying to find better tools all the time!
 
I've talked to guides in my area and they say haven't seen a failure with accubonds on elk, I haven't shot an elk with one but shot a elk with a 140 6.5 berger at 3210fps at 485 yards and was not impressed. They work great on deer and antelope but won't shoot another elk with it. I have shot 6 elk with a 165 barnes out of my 300win at 3100 fps and all of them blew straight though. Had a guide tell me that his wife shot her cow elk with a berger, I think 7mm? quartering away, never made it to the vitals and lost the elk. The 215 bergers out of the 300 win or utra mag I hear have great killing power. The problems I hear about the partitions are the front half blows off and the rest just pencils through with not much expansion and a small exit hole

One of the highest number big bull guides in MT I know of won't allow accubonds on the trip, shoots Bergers and he acts like it changed his life forever changing from accubonds!
I've shot probably over 50 elk with the 140 Berger in my 6.5 going 3230 fps, not shot a single one twice, not lost a single elk, not had one make it more than a few yards or even out of sight, shots from 100 yards to just over 900, one of my top go to bullets for elk and big deer.
Before shooting Bergers I shot 165 and 168 Barnes from 300's, I've had three bullets in one day not clear an elk shoulder and require multiple shots to back up the first one.
If someone says a bullet blew up or penciled and they didn't recover the animal it's a BS flag, you know next to nothing about the hit if you don't recover the animal!!
Just show you how different guys can get different results with bullets, I think it's important to just go with what works the best for you and proves it with one shot per animal and tag regardless of make!!
 
My pick would be a Hammer bulet
In a 7mm or bigger pill.
No side arm. Enjoy your sheep hunt!!!

I had a long talk with a guy who guides in the area I'm going into and he has ran into bears frequently and just luck of the draw not gotten rolled yet but others in the same area got hit. His advice was just to pack a large revolver and not worry about a gun, he said he's never ran into a bear there and gotten his rifle up in time to do any good if a charge would have been real which was something I never thought of, the situation is most likely shooting a bear after getting rolled, really were will be going in one trails that are fairly dense and during hunting season that's where hunters are pulling game in and out of too. The few mock charges I've seen have been open enough I had no issue pulling a rifle up but he is convinced in this terrain and those bears you won't get a round of till after a bear hits ya. He had some interesting takes and advice to think about. He used to carry a Glock 10 mm, now carries a wheel gun, I tend to agree with that as what I've seen your not going to have time for a mag dump which is what most guys with semi's rely on but I don't think I've ever heard of someone getting more than a round or two of so better to hit them with something big.

I was convinced to just roll a rifle till I talked with this guy, I can totally see where a rifle would be best in some situation, I can also see if you get rolled a rifle will be useless and a pistol on your chest is the only way out. I do hate sleeping in small tents in mummy bags in grizz country, I feel like a bear burrito:eek:
 
Thanks bigngreen for your reply. You have way more elk kills than I do, so I maybe should take your advice and not shoot an elk with an accubond. I've heard bad things about the accubond long range but not the regular one, so I appreciate your knowledge.
And yes would agree that they say they made a good quartering away shot at the elk but who knows? Back to your original post about what caliber, don't think I would carry anything smaller than a 30 cal magnum something. Has been a great topic. Thanks for all the input and good luck with your choice.
 
I do pack a glock 10mm in a cross draw holster during archery season because the black bears are so thick here. Can't hear them coming unless they growl at you. Called in a 6ft 4in black bear with a cow call and shot him with my bow. was ready to draw my pistol if he charged, was exciting as ever!
 
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