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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Buddies new rem 700 issues
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<blockquote data-quote="wildcat455" data-source="post: 1456224" data-attributes="member: 102653"><p>I had a rough go with my R700 LR when I bought it new as well, about a year ago. Tried Winchester white box, several Hornady brands, federal, PPU, etc. All with the same results, accuracy ok, but fight to extract the case. Tried polishing chamber, no help. Had gunsmith polish chamber, no help. </p><p></p><p>Factory loads showed pressure signs and some really weird neck sooting, as well as what can best be described as "nicks", as they weren't really long enough to call splits. Figured it was just a bad chamber. As it Turned out, pre extraction timing was also off on bolt, and bolt handle was visibly silver soldered on bolt body crooked. </p><p></p><p>I ended up pretty much going full custom with the rifle. New barrel, blueprinted action and PT&G bolt handle tig welded to bolt body. Wrote off the $600.00 initial investment in the rifle as a loss and as an expensive lesson learned, because my personal values wouldn't allow me to sell it to someone else, even though Remington didn't have a problem with someone buying it .</p><p></p><p>Not saying what I did is what you'll need to do to get it fixed, but here's a few things to look at:</p><p></p><p>Check the factory cases you were shooting for signs of excessive pressure. Check all of them for any shiny spots, scratches, etc. Look for excessive soot around neck and down to shoulder, measure fired case neck diameter, make sure it actually has sufficient clearance to release bullet.</p><p>Check the pre extraction timing on the bolt. With verified empty unloaded gun, cycle bolt, pull trigger, and while lifting bolt and pushing forward on it, verify the end corner of bolt handle where soldered onto bolt body actually engages the back of receiver pre extraction ramp for about .060" of an inch. </p><p>Also make sure it does this after the bolt lugs have cleared the receiver ramp.</p><p>Look at back of bolt with it in rifle and in down position and see if you can detect any misalignment. Uneven or not parallel gaps in spacing, etc. Additionally, with bolt removed from action, turn it over to view the bottom and visually verify end of bolt handle that wraps around bolt body is square to </p><p>Bolt body, and pretty much even with bottom of bolt shroud. </p><p></p><p>While you have bolt out, look for "shiny" marks or wear marks at top of bolt, in lug area, and around back of receiver area. </p><p>If the bolt cycles smoothly in action, no matter how you load the bolt handle with your hand, (laterally, up, down, etc then you probably don't have any serious wear marks on the bolt. </p><p></p><p>Good luck with it and I hope your problems with it aren't as serious as the problems I had with mine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wildcat455, post: 1456224, member: 102653"] I had a rough go with my R700 LR when I bought it new as well, about a year ago. Tried Winchester white box, several Hornady brands, federal, PPU, etc. All with the same results, accuracy ok, but fight to extract the case. Tried polishing chamber, no help. Had gunsmith polish chamber, no help. Factory loads showed pressure signs and some really weird neck sooting, as well as what can best be described as "nicks", as they weren't really long enough to call splits. Figured it was just a bad chamber. As it Turned out, pre extraction timing was also off on bolt, and bolt handle was visibly silver soldered on bolt body crooked. I ended up pretty much going full custom with the rifle. New barrel, blueprinted action and PT&G bolt handle tig welded to bolt body. Wrote off the $600.00 initial investment in the rifle as a loss and as an expensive lesson learned, because my personal values wouldn't allow me to sell it to someone else, even though Remington didn't have a problem with someone buying it . Not saying what I did is what you'll need to do to get it fixed, but here's a few things to look at: Check the factory cases you were shooting for signs of excessive pressure. Check all of them for any shiny spots, scratches, etc. Look for excessive soot around neck and down to shoulder, measure fired case neck diameter, make sure it actually has sufficient clearance to release bullet. Check the pre extraction timing on the bolt. With verified empty unloaded gun, cycle bolt, pull trigger, and while lifting bolt and pushing forward on it, verify the end corner of bolt handle where soldered onto bolt body actually engages the back of receiver pre extraction ramp for about .060" of an inch. Also make sure it does this after the bolt lugs have cleared the receiver ramp. Look at back of bolt with it in rifle and in down position and see if you can detect any misalignment. Uneven or not parallel gaps in spacing, etc. Additionally, with bolt removed from action, turn it over to view the bottom and visually verify end of bolt handle that wraps around bolt body is square to Bolt body, and pretty much even with bottom of bolt shroud. While you have bolt out, look for "shiny" marks or wear marks at top of bolt, in lug area, and around back of receiver area. If the bolt cycles smoothly in action, no matter how you load the bolt handle with your hand, (laterally, up, down, etc then you probably don't have any serious wear marks on the bolt. Good luck with it and I hope your problems with it aren't as serious as the problems I had with mine. [/QUOTE]
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