#1 A good cleaning with known top quality bore solvents with a guide and good cleaning rod. I have used shooters choice for years and now find I like bore tech as well or better. #2 Get a inch/pound torque driver for action screws and scope mounting. A good cleaning till blue green no longer stains patches and torque action screws to Browning recommendation and shoot. After that then if groups are not good look at trying different scope. No point going to scope till after a fouled bore and properly adjusted action screws are eliminated as the problem.
Browning x-bolt 6.5 creedmoor, help
- Thread starter wesg93
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My son went through Army Sniper school and evidently they don't teach cleaning. Pulling a bore snake through the barrel a couple of times seemed to be their idea of cleaning.
Elkaholic Hunter
Previously Ian Wargo
I know you said it was the same ammo, but like this guy said check the Lot #. My coworker had a bunch of hornady 6.5 prc ammo that wouldn't shoot better than 2 moa, tried it in my brother gun same thing 2+ moa switched lots and both guns were .5-.7 moa... Extreme case, but can happen...
Tommy T
Well-Known Member
When you shot it the last time before you stored it did you not clean it ? If you did then i would think that would tell you its not the cleaning . I hAd the same problem with my 338 Lapua hunting rifle and i had 3000.00 scope on it and around thousand dollars worth of trying different ammo i talk to Nosler and Christensen arm about the grouping and they all said to check the scope so i did and that's what it was i went back with Leica and no problem now. But i do clean my rifles around 8 to 20 shots when I'm getting ready to go huntIng. I have 3 - 6.5 CR rifles and one of them is the browning and i use the Berger 140 VLD hunting ammo in them . And its lights out
rlp10ml
Well-Known Member
I have the same gun and "had" a VX6HD on mine that I bought brand new. The gun shot incredible right out of the gate for me. After only 1 box of factory Hornady ammo the groups were opening up big time. After cleaning the barrel real good I noticed a couple of black specs on the inside of the scope on the ocular lense. I sent it in to Leupold and when they sent it back I was told that the Erector System was shot and had to replaced along with cleaning the inside of the lenses. I've since put a Nikon X1000 on the gun and now it is back to shooting bugholes.....
I use Wipe out along with a few others for copper management . Not necessarily do you need to scrub the bore with a brush . Many excellent solvents out there .
Could possibly be the scope Leupold will back their product, I've only had 1 fail but am pretty sure I was the culprit. They promptly repaired it. I've broken rings and never had them question replacement. Unfortunately no company can control quality control's pride or attitude 100% of the time. I'm not a Leupold man but I've got afew on various rifles and handguns. I think they're a good hometown American product! Try adjusting scope several inches down and right to see how accurately the poi follows. I'd think loose action, I don't know anything about Brownings bedding set up. I've read great reviews about that rifle!
You will see lots of recommendations for different solvents and I have tried many. Boretech copper solvents have been hands down the best for me. Another thing. That will save you some work: take a soft foam earplug, roll it up small & plug the muzzle. Stand rife muzzle down in a plastic cup & secure. Then fill bore up with boretech to the chamber. Let it sit for about 3-5 days & drain from the muzzle end. Run about 4 dry patches followed by 4 wet patches then run dry patches through last - get chamber & bore dry. Shoot some fouling rounds. Each barrel will be a little different on how many fouling rounds, sometimes not even 3 rounds but have saw it take 10 on one rifle to settle down. Tell us how it goes.
freddiej
Well-Known Member
WesG93,
since I have gotten in this late I will try not to repeat what someone else has said.. but I have low hopes of that.
first I would look at the lot numbers on the ammo, one of the flaps will have a lot number on it. if they are different then the mystery is solved. this happens a lot. Different lots have different powder and things go sideways.
second is the scope rings and bases. sometimes they loosen up.
third is the gun shifts in the stock and that causes more weird problems that I can describe here.
plastic stock or fiber-glass? Plastic stocks sometimes just deform for some reason and impinge on the barrel in some way this tosses off accuracy big time.
next is copper and powder fowling. I suggest a good copper cleaner like Wipe-Out/Patch Out or Montana X-treme bore solvent W/ Montana X-treme Copper Killer. then a good carbon cleaner like Bortech C4. I use a myriad of cleaners, bore solvents, and carbon removers depending on severity. the most severe is the J-B bore paste that is for the worst case scenarios. Yes, I have had some "worst case" guns come in.
if none of this works. I have one question for you: does the rifle string? shot the first round then the next several shoot off in a line ever farther off the first round's impact? I had a few guns do this. the barrels for some reason went bad. a real mystery was they were tac-drivers for a few hundred rounds then the barrels developed a bad problem of bending as they heated up. it was the weirdest phenomenon I have seen in 20 years of being a gunsmith.
since I have gotten in this late I will try not to repeat what someone else has said.. but I have low hopes of that.
first I would look at the lot numbers on the ammo, one of the flaps will have a lot number on it. if they are different then the mystery is solved. this happens a lot. Different lots have different powder and things go sideways.
second is the scope rings and bases. sometimes they loosen up.
third is the gun shifts in the stock and that causes more weird problems that I can describe here.
plastic stock or fiber-glass? Plastic stocks sometimes just deform for some reason and impinge on the barrel in some way this tosses off accuracy big time.
next is copper and powder fowling. I suggest a good copper cleaner like Wipe-Out/Patch Out or Montana X-treme bore solvent W/ Montana X-treme Copper Killer. then a good carbon cleaner like Bortech C4. I use a myriad of cleaners, bore solvents, and carbon removers depending on severity. the most severe is the J-B bore paste that is for the worst case scenarios. Yes, I have had some "worst case" guns come in.
if none of this works. I have one question for you: does the rifle string? shot the first round then the next several shoot off in a line ever farther off the first round's impact? I had a few guns do this. the barrels for some reason went bad. a real mystery was they were tac-drivers for a few hundred rounds then the barrels developed a bad problem of bending as they heated up. it was the weirdest phenomenon I have seen in 20 years of being a gunsmith.
Johnny Huff
Active Member
Have a friend that had the same problem. He used Wipe-Out Patch-out . Soak the bore and let it set 24 hours run patches through then do the same thing again for 24 hours. If there is any black or blue on your patch do it again for 24 hours.
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
#1 7.62nato vs 6.5cm
HUMONGOUS VELOCITY DIFFERENCE.
#2 7.62NATO FMJ COPPER JACKET HARDER AND LESS COPPER FOULING THAN 6.5CM HUNTING/TARGET COPPER JACKET.
#3 BARREL HARDNESS ON M24/M110/M240/ETC ETC HIGHER BRINELL RATING THAN ALMOST any commercial barrel...
All the above make a difference.
My novels 7.62 could fire right near 750 rnds with 178s before copper FOULING affected it...
30 minute sweets 7.62 soak after 100 bore strokes
15 dry patches
.75moa
Had over 10k rounds when I sold it, still .75 moa...
AWESOME fn barrels
High brunell hardness, unbelievably smooth after fire polishing bore with david tubbs kit..
my guess also....Try some good copper solvent and repeat a few times
