Brass corrosion How to determine if it needs to be trashed?

WinMag4me

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In this period of component shortage how to determine if brass is no longer safely reloadable?
I have been cleaning for 24 hours and the brass has discoloration but no pits.
Is it safe to reload?
 
Caliber determines much of the decision for me. As long as the primer pocket checks out and there is no signs of case separation, cracks or unusual deformation should be fine.
Many of us have a benchmark when it comes to number of reloads per caliber and know when it's time to recycle specific calibers and it will also depend largely on the manufacturer.
 
Depends what it is.
If it's Verdi Gris (green corrosion) this is brass oxides forming, this can be just discolouration, but if there are pits and a white substance too, then it goes in the scrap bin.
If it's black or brown spots, that is contaminant corrosion, like what happens if brass is left in a damp leather pouch or belt. This is harder to remove but poses no problem with integrity of the brass.
This is caused by the tanning salts/chemicals in the leather.
For stubborn stains, 0000 steel wool works fast to remove them.
Water marks are also easy to remove with steel wool.

Cheers.
 
Ammonia occurs in nature from rotting vegetation. Beware of old range brass.

We need to know more on the history of your brass?
 
Any brass with spots or green colored corrosion I tossed in a bucket. This bucket is almost full and with the component situation I decided to run it thru the vibratory cleaner.
I was surprised at the results.
Most cleaned well with the exception of dark stains on some.
I am curious as to the stain effect on loading.
Just trying to get all the life out of it.
Targets on these not hunting or PD ammo.
No pitting only discoloration.
Thanks for your experience.
 
Surface discoloration that can be remover is OK. If fine steel wool doesn't remover it, i would scrape it.
Low pressure rounds may not be an issue. Above 40,000 PSI to 65,000 PSI, i would not load it.
 
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