Bottom Metal Inlet Too Deep

[USAF Marksman]

I put together a rifle in a Manners EH1A with a Mesa Precision Arms M5 DBM all mated to a Bighorn Origin. I have not bedded or installed pillars yet. As you can see, the DBM inlet is too deep for the DBM itself. The trigger ends up about 1/16of an inch away from hitting the inside of the trigger guard. I really don't care about the aesthetics of the DBM sitting below the stock, but should I worry about anything? Is there a way to remedy the situation so that the DBM sits flush to the stock and gives the trigger more clearance?



Thanks for the help,

 

[Forcedoutage]

I have used the small spacers / washers to flush things up, could bed the BM as well. I have bought them from Wyatts in the past.

 

[Bravo 4]

Doesn't seem that bad from the pictures. I have a stock that does this (a little worse than yours). Put in some little washers between it and the bottom metal on the actions screws and it cured that.

 

[Boe]

You can correct this problem when you bed the Rifle. Machine the pillars to the desired length so the bottom metal is flush with the bottom of the stock. Be sure to check all magazine and trigger functions before you bed it. Make adjustments to pillar length if needed.
Richard Hilts
Hilts Accuracy Custom Rifles

 

[USAF Marksman]

You can correct this problem when you bed the Rifle. Machine the pillars to the desired length so the bottom metal is flush with the bottom of the stock. Be sure to check all magazine and trigger functions before you bed it. Make adjustments to pillar length if needed.
Richard Hilts
Hilts Accuracy Custom Rifles

Richard,

I've never done a bedding job on a rifle before, but I've watched enough videos to get the basic idea. Would I be correct to assume that, in addition to machining the pillars for a flush fit of the DBM, that I would also need bedding material between the DBM and the stock? I would think that pushing the DBM out with the pillars to make it sit flush with the stock would inherently create a void between the two. If that assumption is correct, should I bed that portion after bedding the action? If I'm not going to experience any troubles with the DBM sitting below the stock, I may not even worry about it. I will have to contemplate that.

Thanks all for the help.

 

[USAF Marksman]

Doesn't seem that bad from the pictures. I have a stock that does this (a little worse than yours). Put in some little washers between it and the bottom metal on the actions screws and it cured that.

Bravo 4,

You are correct, it's not "that bad". I suppose most of my concern, other than aesthetics of a rifle I spent a **** ton of money on, was the clearance of the trigger to the trigger guard.

 

[shortgrass]

Does the trigger guard bow interfere at all with the trigger? Does the magazine latch into position, and do the cartridges feed smoothly? These are the really important issues. Only after these questions have been answered will you know if the bottom metal should be "shimmed" so it sits flush with the bottom of the stock.

 

[USAF Marksman]

Does the trigger guard bow interfere at all with the trigger? Does the magazine latch into position, and do the cartridges feed smoothly? These are the really important issues. Only after these questions have been answered will you know if the bottom metal should be "shimmed" so it sits flush with the bottom of the stock.

Copy. There is no interference with the trigger, and the mag latches into position without any trouble. I would have to check on feeding. Thanks for the help.

 

[codyadams]

For fitting bottom metal if the stock is already built, you can cut your pillars to a length so that when you set the action into the stock at the proper depth, the bottom metal sets how it should. Assemble and make sure and check function of everything with the pillars cut at that length prior to bedding in place. If all is GTG, bed the pillars/action. They should sit out of the bottom of the dbm inlet a little bit, so for full support of the dbm just bed the bottom metal as well, be careful about mechanical locks and make sure to use plenty of release.

Keep in mind though, often times the rear of the bottom metal cannot be flushed up due to the contour of the stock's grip/bottom metal contour, if you drop it down enough to flush up with the contour of the stock, and also have the front flush with the stock, then it will not set level with the action (tilted rearward) and will cause feeding issues. From your pictures, that is what I suspect in your case. On my EH-1 stocks, the rear sits just a little bit below flush, and the front is flush, and there isn't really anything you can do to fix it aesthetically and still keep the bottom metal oriented properly. If the trigger is too close to the guard, you can however extend the pillars as stated, just make sure and keep the dbm level with the action. What I would do in your case, is flush up the front of the bottom metal with the stock, and add the same length to the rear pillar, then check for function, you will then have plenty of trigger clearance, and be really close to a perfect fit on the rear, just shy of flush.

 

[MNbogboy]

Does the trigger guard bow interfere at all with the trigger? Does the magazine latch into position, and do the cartridges feed smoothly? These are the really important issues. Only after these questions have been answered will you know if the bottom metal should be "shimmed" so it sits flush with the bottom of the stock.

^^^this^^^

 

[shortgrass]

Does the trigger guard bow interfere at all with the trigger? Does the magazine latch into position, and do the cartridges feed smoothly? These are the really important issues. Only after these questions have been answered will you know if the bottom metal should be "shimmed" so it sits flush with the bottom of the stock.

Also, make sure the bolt is not rubbing on the feed lips of the magazine.

 

[Mram10us]

One of the first things I do is bed the bottom metal to the stock with devcon. Material is strong enough at 8k psi.

 

[John Klingenberg]

Don't use the washer method without checking how the magazine feeds. As said, it doesn't look bad at all. It's a slippery slope when fitting stocks to start removing or adding material. Go very slow and think out every action before you do it. Use a HIGH QUALITY release agent when adding material. And slather it all over and in any nook and cranny with a good brush. It will save you so much headache. I've tried all brands and usually use Acra-glass or Score High brands. Devcon is great if you want to bond two things together but it doesn't play as well with release agents. Stay away from the home made recipes for a release agent! Don't over do the filler, you can always add more. Adding too much so it squishes out and into areas you didn't want creates a new set of problems.

 

[codyadams]

Devcon is great if you want to bond two things together but it doesn't play as well with release agents.

Never once had an issue with devcon using kiwi shoe polish or johnsons paste wax as a release. Can't speak for other release agents