Bore cleaner reacting with cases?

MarkInPA

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Just thought I would mention something. I was shooting Saturday morning. Shooting five shot groups and then cleaning the bore in between groupings. I was using Bore Tech Eliminator which I believe does have some copper solvent in it. It's not supposed to have any ammonia, but it must have something that attacks the copper. Anyhow, when I got home and looked at my brass, it felt like there was something on them and it sort of looked like the casings were etched. I think some of the cleaner made its way around the bore guide and got into the chamber and then made its way onto the cases. This is something I didn't really consider. Not only is this not good for the brass but, it could turn into a safety issue. I was taught not to have any excessive lubricant in the bore or chamber as it could cause pressure issues. Lesson learned. I think next time I will be sure to swab out the chamber with a chamber mop and make sure it is dry. Just sharing for whatever it is worth.
 
Well come to think of it, where does the bore guide make its seal? At the throat or at the back of the chamber?

Matter of fact, in addition to mopping out the chamber, it would probably be best to use Bore Tech carbon remover at the range. Keep the copper solvent away from the range. Maybe just use plain old Hoppes #9.
 
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Various bore cleaners are formulated to attack copper bullet fouling & brass is an alloy containing copper - this is a normal situation. These same bore cleaning solvents will also react with brass jags & brushes containing copper.

Various bore cleaners contain monoethanolamine that attacks copper and is also a surfactant meaning it reduces surface tension enabling fouling to be suspended in the bore cleaning solution then removed.

Solvents containing monoethanolamine are usually sold or available in aluminum containers vs. plastic.

I carry an aluminum pistol cleaning rod having a .45 cal nylon brush attached for chamber cleaning .473 type rounds. I wrap several layers of paper towel around the brush then clean out chamber. For a .204R or .223 use a .38 cal nylon brush. More layers of paper towel around brush for 6.5 PRC. The paper towel adequately absorbs any solvent or oil in chamber. A shot of carb cleaner & paper towel would get the chamber squeaky clean. After cleaning chamber with paper towel check to see bore & chamber are clear of any solvents, patches, or paper towel remnants.
 
What do you think I should do with that brass? Is it still safe to use? Will it still perform the way it was prior? The cleaner wasn't left on it for very long and it didn't seem to be very severe. Just enough to notice.
 
Take an affected piece and polish it with 400 grit then inspect with 10X. If no pits or other stuff observed brass will be OK.

This is why solvents are commonly sold in aluminum containers.
 
Take an affected piece and polish it with 400 grit then inspect with 10X. If no pits or other stuff observed brass will be OK.

This is why solvents are commonly sold in aluminum containers.
Hmm..... Thanks Hugnot. Maybe if I have to go to that extent, maybe I should toss the brass and start over. Maybe that is what you are trying to tell me in a round-a-bout sort of way.
 
Take pecautions to prevent stuff like this, it's well worth it. Why wouldn't you swab the chamber every single time after cleaning with solvents? At a minimum, remove the bore guide and twirl a patch wet with alcohol or brake cleaner etc down the chamber/neck to neutralize/flush out the solvents? Followed by a dry pach.
 
Just thought I would mention something. I was shooting Saturday morning. Shooting five shot groups and then cleaning the bore in between groupings. I was using Bore Tech Eliminator which I believe does have some copper solvent in it. It's not supposed to have any ammonia, but it must have something that attacks the copper. Anyhow, when I got home and looked at my brass, it felt like there was something on them and it sort of looked like the casings were etched. I think some of the cleaner made its way around the bore guide and got into the chamber and then made its way onto the cases. This is something I didn't really consider. Not only is this not good for the brass but, it could turn into a safety issue. I was taught not to have any excessive lubricant in the bore or chamber as it could cause pressure issues. Lesson learned. I think next time I will be sure to swab out the chamber with a chamber mop and make sure it is dry. Just sharing for whatever it is worth.
I really like Bore Tech Eliminator. When done I run patches soaked in Remington action cleaner through the bore , then dry patched. If putting gun away this is followed by Rem oil. Then dry patches and the last step is always to run a clean dry bore snake to make sure nothing can run down the barrel to the bolt/firing pin. I always run a shotgun patch in the chamber to do the best I can to make sure nothing accumulated there. I'm always concerned that solutions can accumulated or be missed in the chamber that I have missed. This thread convinced me it's time to get a borescope. Always something to learn here.
 
Once the barrel is clean and the bore guide is removed, I wrap a piece of paper towel around a bore mop of appropriate size and clean/dry the chamber. The paper towel can be twisted off the end of the mop to form a pointed end which has good reach into the chamber neck. Lastly, with a new piece of paper towel on the mop, I add a bit of lighter fluid and swab the chamber to remove any residual oil that the dry paper towel may have left behind.

This is really a very fast and easy procedure once you are accustomed to doing it. Using a really short rod (12" or so) will make it even easier.
 
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