Bluing Question

[sable tireur]

You gave an angry response, that's the reason I asked what was wrong.

I'm going to have to go back to using more smiley faces to insure that folks don't think I'm mad all time.

I didn't feel that I was giving an angry response at all. I'm involved in a project which is requiring more attention to detail so I shouldn't be trying to answer questions. Sometimes my brief answers get interpreted as being brusque...

 

[hnts4fun]

Yes, this thread is 13 years old and revitalized by a new member selecting from the 'similar threads' list at the bottom of the pages. But it's still important to differentiate between the types of metal finishing still available to us as shooters.

Hot blue is still the most used generally due to more reasonable costs but it's being rapidly replaced by Cerakote. Hot blue requires a dedicated area for production. Not only are the baths and chemicals used HOT but the caustic lye (active ingredient) will burn you as well. Metal prep is king for the best final finish, high polish as noted above as well as moderate polish and satin finishes. There is a whole science and training involved in real hot bluing. The stuff marketed for home amateurs is awful.

Nitre blue is usually reserved for smaller parts and is not as wear resistant at all. As a beautiful deep blue it can be used as a contrast to other salt blues. It does scratch easily so it gets the call for display or exhibit firearms.

Carbon blue is an altogether scientific/artistic process for which there are very few folks who endeavor to perform it.
Doug Turnbull Restorations is the best and also the most extreme high prices for restoration. He has devoted his entire life to perfecting his trade and skills. His price list and quotes are not for the faint of heart, deep pockets are. Note that those deep blues so highly associated with Colt firearms has been known to use the Royal Blue Carbon process. Due to cost Colt quit using this finish many, many years ago.

Rust Blue (Belgian Blue, etc.) is my favorite for rifles, shotguns and the classic double guns. Metal prep is still the most important step for the best finish. The end result is typically a satin-type look. There is an mild acid involved but rubber or Latex gloves prevent and problems. Hot water bath and some sort of cabinet to provide a moist, humid environment to encourage the rust to form. I started out using an older decommissioned refrigerator with a light bulb for a little heat. Specific wire wheels are necessary for the carding step.

Rust Blue
View attachment 547781
https://lohmangunsmith.com/pages/slow-rust-bluing

Enjoy!

The blueing on this Colt is beautifully done. I own several modern weather-proof rifles and they have their place. That said, however, nicely blued steel and hand rubbed oil finished wood stocks get my attention!