Best Action Wrench

[Mcarso1]

Out of curiosity for those tough to remove factory barrels do you use heat to prevent the chance of twisting the action as mentioned above? I want to remove factory barrel and am not keeping it for anything but do not want to damage my rem 700 action.

 

[mdmiller]

If you have a welder, or a friend who does, weld a piece of flat stock on the end of some round stock and there you go! Best to have a good tight fit up.
I have machinery so I turned the round stock to get a better fit on the smaller diameter actions and milled the flat stock for a good fit up on the lug abutments. I even case hardened the hot rolled flat stock. I doubt that's required. I did to break up a can of Kasenit I had collecting dust on the shelf.
I put tee handles on them to make sure I could get the required torque easily by hand. However, I'm thinking of cutting them off and welding on a socket to use a wrench. Doesn't really matter if you know how tight the barrel needs to be put on.

PM me if you want more specifics.

Thanks jrock for the pics!!!

 

[Bruce Treloar]

They fit the clone actions with no issues, all seem good fit?

I'm of the opinion they stretch the threads when fitting the barrel. When the headspace is a couple of thou over they excessively tighten the barrel onto the action.

 

[tobnpr]

Out of curiosity for those tough to remove factory barrels do you use heat to prevent the chance of twisting the action as mentioned above? I want to remove factory barrel and am not keeping it for anything but do not want to damage my rem 700 action.

That's why you need to use an around-the-receiver style. Don't use heat on receivers- it won't help anything at the temperatures you could safely use without affecting temper.
Monkey-tight barrels require a LOT of torque/pressure to prevent slip and a well-fitting bushing for maximum surface area contact (and some rosin). Some guys use a 10 or 20 ton hydraulic press in lieu of a "vise". But, vises are a different subject.

For those with lathes, and if the barrel isn't being "saved", a parting tool ahead of the receiver ring makes short work of pulling any barrel.

 

[spladi]

I am looking into building a new rifle next year and was looking at the tools needed. I will be using a Kelbly Atlas Tactical and would like to know what all the experienced Gunsmiths use for this action when torque to specs?

My barrels usually just go on a hair past snap hand tight fit......... many action wrenches can be made using 1/2" x 1" cold rolled flat strap in appropriate dimensions, for the cheap route

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

"For those with lathes, and if the barrel isn't being "saved", a parting tool ahead of the receiver ring makes short work of pulling any barrel."
I would like to see an example how this process is done-pictures maybe? I always turn the barrel out. Are you cutting the barrel off at the receiver? If so how do you get the threaded chamber out?
Thanks always interested in new ways to do something.

 

[isaaccarlson]

No, all you are doing is cutting a groove right in front of the action about as deep as the threads go, and it releases the compression of the barrel shoulder pushing against the face of the action and the tension on the threads. It should come out by hand if done right.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

No, all you are doing is cutting a groove right in front of the action about as deep as the threads go, and it releases the compression of the barrel shoulder pushing against the face of the action and the tension on the threads. It should come out by hand if done right.

That is EXACTLY what I thought you meant but needed clarification. You are a King among Princes!
THANKS MUCH
Merry Christmas!
Len & Jill

Edit
We have barrel vises and inside action wrenches, we also have a tools that clamp on the barrels or on the outside of the action (mostly 700) with 2' bars attached for leverage.