Bent recoil lug?

[Will Gray]

Only thing I see wrong with the Savage 110 design is the less than great extractor but that is true of the Remington as well. Have had no trouble with the recoil lug: I change barrels often from 22-250 right up to 375 RUM (Have all the parts needed to make the bolt standard or magnum on all of my rifles). The great positive for me is the safety to the shooter: the bolt follower behind the lugs blocks the slots in the action when closed. Unlike the Remington (they claim three rings of steel) the Savage has a wall of steel in the tracks to keep failed brass from spraying the shooter. I modify all the rifles I work on to make them use a barrel nut for setting headspace so all my barrels fit the rifles without any need for lathe work.

 

[ntsqd]

I have both a PTG and an NSS surface ground lug and precision barrel nut, I'd buy either again, but the NSS delivery will be far quicker. Second the suggestion to get a precision barrel nut too. Careful, that's a slippery slope.....

 

[David Emerson]

Those factory jobs are stamped not same thickness overall and thin, get the thicker machined aftermarket ones and tell him to skim bed around the pillars and against lug. Northland shooters supply sells the good recoil lug for about $28 and a trued up barrel nut for about the same. Easy to swap out and well worth it Like everything it benefits the finished product.


Well I got a whole bevy of them fat girls that I don't care who see's em You can spend a lot more getting razor edge accuracy from some of them skinny girls. Targets are what most accuracy addict's want to see.......One of mine will only shoot 1/2" or so...... seems to be a finicky barrel but on a savage that's really only a 30-40 min. swap in the reloading room, just haven't got to it yet. The other four are all mid ones to mid threes, nothing fat about them groups

I know they shoot well. Just personal choice for me.

 

[jarnold37]

A buddy was having accuracy issues with his Savage 110 chambered in 270win and asked me to take a look. My first clue that something wrong was that the front action screw would not come out. I had to dremel a notch in the head to get it out with a big flathead screwdriver. When I got it apart I noticed that the recoil lug area had all most of the material removed. Instead of a nice flat face for the recoil lug it was rounded over.
Then I noticed the recoil lug itself. What the.....? Am I seeing this right? Is it actually bent? Is this possible? Have any of you ever seen this before? I'm thinking that the recoil force is also what bound up the front action screw, what do you think?
View attachment 226810

Just something to think about-So many rifles I have glass bedded for others upon inspection, usually shows evidence that the action has been moving in the stock. Even to the point of the bluing worn off. Also so many of these rifles, the action screws are finger tight. When a barreled action starts "wallowing" in the stock from recoil, it gets worse quickly. If any movement at all occurs it soon puts force on lug and flexing continues to worsen-maybe even bending-especially if lug is flimsy and thin to begin with

 

[Will Gray]

When someone ask me to look at their rifle (I am an amateur gun mechanic) First thing I do is swab out the bore, check the headspace, see if the barrel is free floating, remove all the screws (stock to action, scope bases and rings) I look it all over, anti-seize on all the screws and torque. I find a lot of loose screws and even came across one rifle recently where the GO gauge would not go in (owner says he uses commercial ammo and has no trouble closing the bolt (his rifle!) He must have strong hands! Have had no problems with recoil lugs, but I have only seen maybe a dozen rifles (its a hobby and I work for free). Don't want any slack in a rifle.

 

[FEENIX]

Results of using sled. Have seen many lugs and stocks damage from sled shooting.

I still have the original lead sled and went through many rifles any problem. The problem lies when people try to eliminate recoil by using 100 lbs counterweight. I do not use any weights so it is not an issue. I like using mine when breaking-in a barrel as I can transition from shooting to cleaning and back to shooting with ease.

 

[Will Gray]

I still have the original lead sled and went through many rifles any problem. The problem lies when people try to eliminate recoil by using 100 lbs counterweight. I do not use any weights so it is not an issue. I like using mine when breaking-in a barrel as I can transition from shooting to cleaning and back to shooting with ease.I

 

[Will Gray]

I bought a sled and 100lbs of lead a few years back. Got tired of lugging that around. Now I use a heavy bag to set the butt on and bipod up front. If shooting just a few I just consider it a good chance to toughen up the shoulder and if shooting a lot I use a shoulder pad. I pull the rifle firmly into my shoulder, taking all the slack out of the rifle/shooter interface. I will be 76 in a couple of weeks and lots of my muscle mass is gone but when I hold the rifle firmly, recoil is not an issue. I shoot the big calibers: 375 RUM is my favorite but I have wildcat 416, 358, 338 EDGE, 300 RUM, 45-70, 35 Whelen, 300WM, and all the lesser calibers. Tight screws and no weighted sled saves the rifle. Even if you don't get to shoot a lot, shoot a few every week. Lots of my trips to the range are with several rifles, only three rounds each: always checking the cold bore shot.

 

[mrjashu]

Thanks for all the input. I asked and found out that this rifle had indeed been shot in a lead sled. I decided to go ahead and buy the rifle off of my buddy as a project. I'm definitely going to replace the recoil lug and barrel nut, re-finish and bed the stock, we'll see what else.
Perhaps I'll post some of the progress as I go along.

Thanks again.

 

[XSIVSPD]

Seen that on my rem700 300rum, but not on any of my savages. Seems like a good excuse to upgrade to a nice machined 1/4" lug.