beginner turkey hunter questions

[James DeTorre]

7,8,9 TSS. Large shot is illegal some states.
Choke, gun , shooter have to be in sync, just like rifles.
If you want one at long range, like the blog is titled, every little thing counts.
Keep it under 20 yds then anything legal
Will work.
Warning turkey hunt is addictive!

 

[KS Shooter2021]

Forgot one more thing, as Cajun said evening before try to find a where they are roosting. Give that area a wide berth when you walk in the next morning and try to set up where you have a good view of a field near their roost. Also, they often like to get a drink first thing when they fly down off the roost, so keep water sources in mind.
you can usually find tracks in the mud where they like to drink.
One thing I found out was that they were less disturbed by a four wheeler moving around than walking. That's because I hunt a working ranch where they used 4 wheelers, tractors etc. every day all day all year round, so it just a normal noise they hear every day, not something they associate with bad juju.

 

[George Koch]

I have never turkey hunted before but this year I have the opportunity to try it. I have done lots of hunting for big game but where I live you have to draw a permit to hunt turkeys and this is the first year I have ever drawn a permit. I have a 12 gauge but it only 2 3/4 and the biggest shot I have for it is #3. Is this enough for a turkey? What kind of range should I shoot with this set up? I know these are horrible questions but this is a little out of my realm. When I found out I drew the permit I started looking for bigger shot but it seems impossible to find. Thanks for any advice.

You need the patience of Jobe, better do a lot of pre scouting wake with them and put them to bed 12 gauge 5 and 6's is all you need most of the ole timers shot them with a single barrel with number 8 shot , it can be done. Calls or another animal you can do just as much harm with one as good , the best thing to do is go with somebody that has hunted turkeys. It would be beginners luck to bag one without ever going before. You can get the fever hearing the toms sound off early. The earlier in the season you go the better.
I gave up all hunting about 10 years ago with the exception of turkey hunting best experience you can have with your clothes on. Not sure what part of the country you live in but watch your step and where or how you sit.
We have all brands of the vipers here moccasins, copperheads and those nasty big ole timber rattlers or cane brakes

 

[DWier]

the choke tube will make a huge difference on the best shot size.
I'm a #5 lead, heavy shot blend, and the best is TSS. Nothing comes close to TSS in terms of performance or price (unfortunately). BUT you need the right tube for it. My #9 TSS shoots 350-360 in 10" @40 yards.
The winchester long beard is the preferred lead load.

Youtube and Oldgobbler.com should provide great tips.

Carlson makes a choke designed for winchester long beard #6 shot. If you find your barrel does not have interchangeable chokes, you can buy a new barrel or just get a remington 870 express. Cheap, can't hurt it and it wil last forever.
We can't emphasize to much the need for camouflage on anything the turkey may be able to see. Light weight gloves included. No watch or rings. As has been mentioned many times their hearing and eyesight are a level of magnitude above whitetail deer. Unlike deer, turkeys are NOT color blind. When calling, call softly and infrequently. Once the gobbler shows up, quit calling. You will only give your position away.
Goodluck and enjoy. You are about to enter a fantasy world.

 

[RAGGED EDGE]

Turkey hunters who do not pattern their guns should not be allowed to hunt'em.

 

[DartonJager]

Didn't take the time to read every response so my apologies if I give previously stated advice.
Been turkey hunting for 30+ years in two states.
Killed over 40 Toms and Jake's combined about 60% were off public land. Have called in at least that many for friends and family to thier demise so I know a little about turkey hunting and are about 98% self taught.
First check the turkey hunting regulations in your stare and be knowledgeable of them as #2 or #3 shot might not be legal in your state as #4 shot is the largest you can use in the two states I hunt in.
I personally prefer 12ga 3.5" 2oz of #5 shot as the best all around compromise on close and far shot situations. If you have only a 12ga with a 3" chamber then I'd recommend 3" #5"s
If your gun already has a sight system go with that if not I strongly recommend you invest in an aftermarket iron sight system if your gun has a vent ribbed barrel that you can attach one to.
Next IMO patterning your gun is an absolute must there are countless turkey patterning YouTube videos that will show you how
Just read you only have a 12ga 2.75" so I would recommend nothing smaller than #5 shot possibly go with #6. Killing with Turkey shells is mostly a numbers game as in numbers of shot per ounce of shot. If memory serves me correctly 12ga 2.75oz shells have only 1.5oz of shot in them. There are dramatically more #6 shot per ounce VS #4 but #5 shot has better retained energy than #6 so considering your gun I would see which patterns better #5 or #6
If your gun already has a full or extra full choke I'd use that to pattern your gun first before investing in potentially expensive AM turkey choke tunes
You can download excellent turkey patterning targets for free if you have a printer to help you pattern your gun. But be advised 12ga 3" turkey shells have some recoil especially 12ga 3.5" shells kick harder than a millennial being dragged to a job interview.
Sooner or later you will get caught with a turkey in range and your gun is not up and ready to shoot, so YOU MUST practice and I do mean PRACTICE SLOOWLY and SMOOOTHLY bringing up and shouldering your gun, aiming and shooting in one slow smooth and fluid motion. I have mastered the fine art of sitting with my knees up and using them to help support my gun while my arms cradling my gun and using my slate call so this hasn't happened to me in many years but it still could, but now that I am quite good with a mouth call I don't need my hands to call to get the Tom to close the last few yards to get in gun range unless I need to purr to get him in as I can not purr with a mouth call to save my life.
Regardless you must practice cradling your gun to keep it ready to use and work your slate of paddle call until you can do it without thinking about it. Don't even think you can get away with picking up your gun off your lap shouldering it and shooting without the turkey spooking, if the Tom is in a big open area of field you still have a decent chance to get him but if you're in heavy woods or cover forget about it.
Invest in a good sling for your shotgun another IMO must have item
A Few other must have clothing items are waterproof boots, camo gloves are fine but plane Jane dark brown Jersey gloves have served me superbly for 30 years and are cheap so when you loose one INBD cheap easy and fast to replace
A good snug fitting face covering is an ABSOLUTE must
After trying over a dozen different types I now use and absolutely love using a single woman's elastic top nylons cut to size as it really stays in place well over my nose just below my eyes
A good camo ball cap
And of course camo clothes as far as camo pattern any type will do just fine best camo in the world is the camo that stays rock still
Also a good set of suspenders can't hurt you I use Sperry
Keep a small pump bottle of deep woods off on your person at all times while turkey hunting and get a bottle of Sawyer Permethrin and treat all your clothes hat and face mask per directions
Been using Sawyer Permethrin for years now and it really keeps ticks and skeeters off you Lyme's disease is a very very real threat
I use deep woods off very high deet content for in the field touch ups
I try to avoid spraying insect repellent directly on my skin at all costs but will load up on my clothes
If you can get them I simply can not recommend strongly enough Winchester Long Beard XR Turkey shells dollar for Dollar best turkey shell you can buy and are usually under $24 for a box of 10
Nothing in turkey hunting IMO is more important to your success than preseason and even in season scouting
You should be out scouting right now finding established well used roosts, strutting and feeding areas are IMO 90% of successful turkey hunting nothing beats putting one let alone more Toms to roost at night then setting up in morning to help you be successful.
Also knowing where an established roost is allows you to do dry runs in daylight and using a great pair of pruning shears clear a path through the underbrush so you can get in quickly and set up quietly. I have e gone so far as to bring a lightweight collapsible rake and clear a path of leaves and sticks up to the spot I'm going to set up on a roost.
Also be careful using lights getting to your spot. I use a Mini Mag light cupped in my hand to strictly control how much light is cast and only use it when I need to

If you are hunting in hilly country or hilly terrane ALWAYS ALWAY if at all humanly possible set up ABOVE the turkeys as turkeys are MUCH more willing to climb UP a hill to come to a call than DOWN. Why you ask? because for a turkey its a s**tton easier to run DOWN hill away from danger than UP hill.
If you can always try to roost birds the night be fore you hunt
Also do not worry if you don't kill a bird or one of the birds you roosted as I have killed about 60% of my birds after 9am vs calling them in off the roost
Once they are down off the roost and you didn't kill one then the sneakNpeek running and gunning begins
Toms when in the mood and the weather is right tend to gobble well just as the sun rises to usually 30 or so minutes after sun up or until The toms decide to fly down then they might or might not gobble but once they get with Hens your usually screwed until after 9am or so unless you know how to or are lucky enough to position yourself between the Toms and hens and where they want to go
Put yourself between a Tom and where he wants to go and you're the world's best turkey caller
If you're hunting large enough tracts of public land then that's when the sneaking peeking and running and gunning really begins and comes into its own.
I usually try to spot a Tom and depending on the situation either close in as close as I can to 70 if not 50 yards if possible and call him in or if he is on the move haul *** as fast as I can circle around and get in front of him and call him in
As I said most of my turkeys I've killed I spotted out in a field that were either walking to get somewhere or out strutting and were able to either close the distance and then set up on them and call them in or circle around and call them in and more than a few times if the Tom is heading my way and Im confident he will walk into gun range I don't even call them only when I need them to change direction to get in range will I call to them
Also I feel a good pair of binoculars are absolutely a must have piece of equipment I feel my 10x binoculars are second only to my turkey gun to my success as a turkey hunter
I literally have lost count of the Toms I've spotted in shade darkened corners or edges of huge fields I would have NEVER ever seen with the naked eye and not seen without the aid of my MIJ 10x Pentax binoculars and at least 55% off all my turkeys I've killed and 70% of my public land turkey kills I saw them only because I had binoculars with and saw them before they saw me and I put on a successful stalk I stay just back enough in the cover to hide me and use my binoculars to scan the fields works like magic
In my experience anything under 500 yards and count on a turkey seeing you especially if you allow yourself to get highlighted by the sun and that reminds me of another tip:
ALWAYS always stay in the shadows when ever humanly possible and when you stop for any reason but especially if your going to glass a field or area always do so from a well shaded position no exceptions.
Also a good lightweight hen decoy or two are a useful tool to bring with try to buy ones that fold up and store easily in your turkey vest. In my experience you don't need to buy a high $$$ decoy a decent decoy that looks like a real hen will work just fine I set mine up at about 15-20 yards out with her head facing me
As far as calls nothing beats a slate call either real slate or synthetic for easy to use and sounding exactly like a turkey I have and use both but the synthetic is essentially unaffected by rain or moisture where as the real slate will struggle if wet and even on dry spring mornings dew on your call will happen. I always have a piece of Scotch Bright and Emery cloth attached to my slate along with my synthetic striker on a piece of Para cord so I can rough up my calling surface and if I have time I always rough up the face of my slate call before every use
There are endless how to call turkey YouTube videos that will get you up to speed in calling but day in and out getting good at yelps and clucks will kill you alot of turkeys. What ever you do always start out calling softly and if you get no response increase the tone and volume if especially if blind calling, once you get no response to your slate or try either a paddle or mouth call as they are both much louder than any slate ever could be.
My favorite mouth calls are the double and triple stacked Premos mouth calls. Another great use for mouth calls and paddle calls is as a locator call although a paddle call is a very close second as nothing I've found is louder than a mouth call and I have used my mouth calls to reach out past 400 yards to call in 3 of my last 7 Toms after getting no response to my slate calls and have used mouth calls to get Toms to gobble countless times after 9am and was able to move in and set up and call them in. I have enjoyed much more success doing longer range calling with a mouth call than paddle but others it is the direct opposite. Regardless I won't go hunting without my synthetic slate paddle call and 3-6 different mouth calls.

As far as a shock calls I tried every type there is and none worked as well for me as a owl hooter
As far as hunting goes I try to get if I can within 50 yards of roosted birds without spooking them I do so if at all humanly possible I always try to get as close to 50 yards as I can as the situation, terrain or cover allows and again if possible set out a hen decoy or two, but if I can't set out a decoy I don't worry about it.
My ideal set up on a roosted Tom I put to bed the night before is when he Flys down hopefully to my hen decoy he will be in range
If I'm going in blind and wasn't able to roost a Tom it's a whole different strategy.
I have had happen countless times I saw a Tom or several Toms and Jake's in an area just before fly up time and lost them when they entered the woods that held a roost I knew of or had large numbers of mature trees suitable for turkeys to roost and either I heard them fly up (turkeys make an awful lot of noise when they fly up or down from a roost) but didn't hear a gobble, or didn't hear anything but they were the only turkeys I saw that evening so I started hunting that area next morning.

I will get out in that area as early as is practical get in some cover and just listen for hopefully a gobble close enough to be worth going after.
If that happens now the REAL turkey hunting starts. If the Turkey keeps gobbling you have to close the distance as fast as you safety can and yes while I have never actually ran my *** off I have considerable distancees at a good jog countless times to close the distance. Ideally IMO if at all possible you want to get under 100 yards from the gobbling Tom before he Flys down if you accomplishe this then the real work begins because it's now trying to figure out given the cover and terrain how you should try to set up on the Tom only through doing it will you learn how.

Another very important fact is the wind will either be your best friend or worst enemy. If it's a very windy day you will have considerable difficulty hearing Toms gobble even while roosted but especially once on the ground. If it's a calm minimal to no wind day you can hear a gobble on the roost so far way to be possibly not worth pursuing same for your calls on a calm low to no wind days I have successfully called mature lone Toms from as far as 450+ LRF confirmed yards away. But if it's windy and the wind is at your back I've seen Toms in fields under 300 yards from me I could physically see through my binoculars were gobbling like mad Men and never heard a sound they made.
Also keep in mind until you learn to judge well a Tom gobbling on the ground especially in heavy cover will almost always sound much farther away by at least a factor of 2x than they actually are.
You also after hearing a few Toms gobble on the roost then fly down and gobble you learn how to tell the difference between how a gobble from a roosted bird sounds vs one on the ground.

Also until you become experienced a gobble from a roosted Tom will sound closer than it actually is so keep that in mind.
If by chance you are fortunate enough to get set up on a roosted bird or group of birds do your best once it starts to get light to get eyes on them with your binoculars and #1 identify which are Toms/Jake's and which are hens.
#2 Extremely important is try to Determine if the Toms are facing towards you or not because they will almost always fly down the way they are facing.
If they aren't facing towards you you have try to call to them get their attention and get them facing towards you so they are most likely to fly down in your direction and be MUCH easier to call in and a decoy is a big help here. As to what call to use I would if he is roasted with any hens and they are calling try to mimic their calls as perfectly as you can and gradually and slightly increase the frequency and volume of the call if you see the Tom change direction and face you I usually reduce my calling to about half what I was if he starts throwing gobbles your way I usually stop calling all together unless he looks like he's going to change direction and face away from me
Unless I know a field is an established well used strutting area or my private land is just to small I do not ever set up blindly on a field set out my decoy(s) and start blind calling I absolutely and utterly believe run&gun sneekNpeek is the best way to hunt turkeys after 9am
A few pieces of equipment I would rate as must have are:
>Good set of binoculars absolute must have equipment
>As good a set of pruning shears as you can find. I have a set of Fiskers compound leverage shears and they are awesome built like an Abraham's MBT and have lasted for over 14 turkey and deer seasons combined have used them countless times to cut my way through nasty thorny patches of mutiflorose to get to a spot to set up on a bird
>Great 6-8" long folding wood saw. Both Gerber and Buck use to make one I own both both are great
Had them since late 1990's so don't know if either one is still are made
>Folding Turkey seat for some maybe not a must have but for my over 50 hips and keeping Yong turkey hunters still and being able to set up literally anywhere in anything and in considerable comfort IMHO they are well worth carrying and using them
>If you hunt public land a cheap blaze orange vest made from quite briar proof cloth. I have one and if I am set up with my boys on a roost just before we take a seat, I hang it on a limb or put it out on the ground behind us to signal to anyone sneaking up behind us the presence of other hunters. Been doing this for years and never had a turkey notice it let alone spook from it.
Hope I have given you a helpful item or two. Best of luck and be safe
For got to add a few other key points.
In any given situation where you have confirmed either by sight or you heard gobbling there are turkeys in your immediate area close enough to be worked and called in and for what ever reason you have decided to take a seat and set up it is extremely important to do so to allow you maximum swinging arc with your shotgun and prior to taking a seat look over the cover your about to sit down in and be sure there is nothing that will stop you from swinging your shotgun like a small sapling or similar immovable object. Also try to avoid setting up in cover that's so thick that it will limit your sight or movement to be able to shift your position to adjust for an incoming bird. By that I mean don't set up in cover so thick you can only see a bird if they are coming towards your direct front field of vision and can not see them if they come from behind or from your extreme left or right sides. You should be able to see any direction you can move your head and shift yourself while seated. You won't always be able to do so but if at all possible you should. I feel as long as as I can set up in even a little shade because I use a turkey chair if I have to choose I will always choose to set up in sparse poor concealment cover that allows a good field of vision and allows me to maneuver for almost any shot angle VS heavy cover that I feel will unacceptably limit my field of vision and ability to maneuver for a shot.

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

If you can try and get different types of loads and pattern your shotgun. You would be surprised at the difference in pattern density and even point of impact. Your 12 ga 2 3/4" is plenty for turkey. I personally use a little remington youth model 870 in 20 gauge with 3" Wincester Supreme #5s and have rolled turkey at 40 yards.
Just pattern your gun and cover your hands and face and keep still. Try to get your gun in position before they come into view. Camo is goo but not necessary. I've had flocks of turkey walk right by me during deer season when I was covered head to toe in blaze orange. As long as I didn't move they didn't spook. But they were a bit cautious of me.

 

[Hubby45]

Good luck on the Turkey Hunt! It's a great way to get out in the woods before Fall Big Game.
I have enjoyed it for 32 years now.
I like size 2-5 shot. Camo. Facepaint. Learn to call and listen for them at first and last light for roosting areas. I hunt an area with big evergreens , scrub oak and mountain creeks. Take care !

 

[Wonderlich Outdoors]

I would highly recommend camouflage. Including face and hands.

Check your state regulations, some states specify, the size of shot and gauge. Iowa for example, nothing smaller than 20 gauge, and only 4 thur 8 shot size. Head shots only 20-30 yards for beginners, X-full choke, have the mind set you are shooting a single projectile firearm. AIM AIM AIM, at their eyeballs. Know where your gun shoots, and pattern check it with the loads, and distance you hope to shoot. I use a 12 gauge, 3 1/2" duplex turkey loads. with a turkey specific choke, and a scope. 50 yard HEAD/NECK shots are common. One shot one kill. Sometimes it can be so easy, other times very challenging, very situational.

Turkey's eyes are on the side of their heads, thus they have no depth perception. Everything looks like a picture on the wall. Therefore any movement within sight will likely spook them. Thus having everything camouflage helps you to bend in with your surroundings. Make slow movements only if needed. Noise or smell is not a big deal, much different than big game hunting, in that regard.

Being in the outdoors during springtime is very hard to beat. Enjoy your time, and blessing.

 

[Slibey]

Camo everything face gun, ect. Shooting sticks to have barrel rest on to cut down movement when Tom comes in. A decoy or two, helps a lot. Go scouting in late evening trying to find area they roost in. Practice calling, (the fun part, like calling a bull). Setup close or in brush for concealment. Five shot will be fine. All the above posts also good info

 

[Pro2A]

I have never turkey hunted before but this year I have the opportunity to try it. I have done lots of hunting for big game but where I live you have to draw a permit to hunt turkeys and this is the first year I have ever drawn a permit. I have a 12 gauge but it only 2 3/4 and the biggest shot I have for it is #3. Is this enough for a turkey? What kind of range should I shoot with this set up? I know these are horrible questions but this is a little out of my realm. When I found out I drew the permit I started looking for bigger shot but it seems impossible to find. Thanks for any advice.

That's a deep, deep, complicated leading question. Hang on!!! Check your state/local regulations on permissible shot size. For instance, per Section 3 CSR 10-7.455, Missouri prohibits shot size larger than #4, no restriction on the higher/smaller end. Turkeys aren't bear or deer. Doesn't take all that much to kill a turkey properly shot in the head/neck/spinal cord. Even dead turkeys flop around a lot. I've seen many one pellet kills.....aw, that golden pellet. Some states restriction the smallest shot size at about #6, not Missouri, but even 7-1/2 shot yielding a denser pattern will kill a turkey with solid head/neck/spinal cord shot. Shooting the body is another story. Those feathers are their body armor. You won't believe what a bird can soak up in the body. Preference is to shoot when the head and neck are extended as in gobbling mode so the head/neck are fully exposed to the shot pattern. When turkey is in strut the head/neck can be tucked against the shoulder/body and are very protected by their body armor. Smaller shot (higher number) gives a denser pattern, which is critical, especially as distances grow. And, yes, shotguns have ballistic drop to consider, just more difficult to evaluate than a rifle with single projectile and longer ranges. Shot out of a smooth bore barrel is the knuckleball of projectiles. Your pattern will vary between shots. One who denies that just hasn't patterned their load enough to know. If your shotgun has changeable chokes, consider an application specific Xtra-Full turkey choke, many brands Carlson, Brilley, Jebs, et el. While this year with the ammo scarcity you may not enjoy the luxury to be picky, and although not mandatory, do consider purpose made turkey loads,,,ie Winchester Long Beard, et el, or whatever the Marketing types have conjured up this lap. Even with ammo scarcity, one shot per bird/at worst, five shells should be plenty for the season, test pattern your gun with several loads to confirm which performs best in your specific gun/choke. Pattern the load to be used at 5 yard increments out to your maximum effective yardage....probably 25-35yds and under with 2-3/4 shells. Use turkey image targets getting started to see how different loads form kill patterns. You will be surprised how many shotguns shoot off point of aim, and how different loads pattern differently......many horribly......in different shotguns. Even consider that for your pattern there may be a "shot too close" as shot is like a slug up close and personal at 3-7 yards. Yeah, turkeys can get that close, especially when they sneak around and come in from the blind side and walk right past you toward your decoys. DON'T BREATHE; DON'T TWITCH!!!!! Know your pattern. Know your limit. Know your ability to accurately judge yardage......especially under adrenaline rushes.........which a turkey will give you. On a stand hunt, rather that run and gun, place stepped off yardage markers or use existing measured reference points. For run 'n' gun, practice, practice, practice range estimation skills. You will mis-judge the distance and bungle the shot under the adrenaline rush. Use camo, hands-face-eyes-shiny gun, but know that movement is your worst enemy. Turkeys are stupid birds (per a friend that was paid to study turkey for Iowa University at Ames), but have keen vision and hearing and are extremely wary/cautious/spooky. In addition to shotgun and choke choices, welcome to the Darkness known as turkey gear.....not necessarily needed.........but oh so much fun. You have found an "any-jury-acquit" alternative need for your retirement nest egg and kids' college money. Your kids can work their way through college. Builds character and purpose. Turkeys have a right to expect a well dressed/equipped hunter adversary. Turkey vest to carry gear with comfy seat for your touchy.....maybe back rest....turkey calls....box, slate, many, many mouth diaphragm calls.......gotta talk turkey for the real fun/adrenaline rush......hat, face net, gloves, snake gaiters/boots, camo clothes.......turkey specific model gun and sighting system. ....a monopod/bipod to rest gun while calling til moment of truth. (I prefer a Mossberg 835 Tactical Turkey with EoTech 512 Holographic sighting system and Boonie Packer sling. Friends laughed when I first showed up at our farm with this setup, and asked, "Afraid turkeys are gonna over run your position." Well, YEAH!!!! I really, really talk turkey..... Stupid boys. Now, several have the same rig. ) And, did I mention turkey decoys?? OH, now we're talking turkey hunting!!!! Gotta have hens....feeding/sitting/standing, toms for competition including full strut fan spread....and the runt for the bigger birds to push around and exert their dominance.....you won't believe their attitude about hen dominance. Probably a new camo pickup to haul your new obsession turkey gear. At least a 35" 5th wheel RV to relax after a hard half day hunt........Missouri hunting only til 1:00PM in Spring. Away from our property, I prefer a 45' tag axle diesel pusher Tiffin motorcoach. Gotta give 'em a time out. Turkey breast is expensive. All kidding aside.....heart attack deadly serious need......DO NOT FORGET a blaze orange bag/wrap to carry that monster gobbler out of the woods. Forget everything else but this!!!! There are stupids in every sport that will shoot without really confirming their target and background. And, some easily, concealable removable orange for yourself, and impact proof safety shooting glasses to protect eyes from errant shot even on private land. DO NOT wear red, blue, white, black in turkey season. Fences or signs don't keep out stupid. AND, be positive YOURSELF of your target and background. Safety is paramount as in all shooting sports. It ain't fun coming home hurt....or not coming home....or getting sued for injury to others. Missouri used to require a Smiley Face "BE SAFE" sticker on the shotgun visible to shooter when shooting. Welcome to the addiction known as turkey hunting. It;s a HOOT!!!! And, it all started with a simple question about shot size and distance. My condolences to your family for their loss during the Spring and Fall turkey seasons!!! Warn them not to give your good stuff away....you will return at season close. Good safe hunting.

 

[Pro2A]

Very addictive. Just like hunting bugling bulls, but with feathers.

MAN....you must have BIG turkeys....or small elk......

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

#3 Is just fine. I like 2s-4s myself. The 2 3/4 will work just fine.
Pattern your gun and see how far you can shoot and keep a good Pattern.
You can find several good videos on doing that.
If possible run a good extra full choke also.

Good luck with that hunt. Turkey hunting is a lot of fun.

Kris

I agree that 3's are fine. Specialty turkey shells have copper plated bb's,for better penetration and less deformation, if and when you can find them.
Keep your shots no further than 40 yards for 2 3/4" shells, and DO pattern them on paper. A good trick I learned is to draw a simulated gobbler neck and head by making a fist, flex your wrist, and place your arm sideways against a large piece of paper (so the pinky is against the paper), then draw the outline of your forearm and hand with a marker. This eliminates the expense of buying special turkey targets. The purpose of doing this is so you can see how many of your pellets hit the simulated head and neck at your firing distance. You want at least 6 pellets entering the head and neck. Always aim for the center of the neck (from top to bottom), when the neck is stretched out, so your pellets will spread into the head and entire neck. And don't shoot when the gobbler is in full strut, with his head tucked down.
You should be fine with a Full choke, but definitely pattern your gun with the choke you plan to use.
Good luck and have fun--- Spring turkey hunting is my favorite.

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

I'm a 5 or 6 shot size guy myself. Reason is the neck/spinal cord is the the target zone. If you have smaller shot size you have more pellets in that zone. With that said when you shoot the ideal position of the bird is with it's neck and head fully extended. Not gobbling where the feathers protect the neck. I would avoid Head on body shots due to the feathers and breast protecting the vitals. Take a look at a store bought whole turkey or chicken and the anatomy will make sense. When you pattern your gun, as previously stated, make a paper target by making a fist and bend your fist down. This makes the shape of a neck and head. Trace it on the paper from your fist to elbow. You want the pattern covering the neck so aim in the middle of the neck. Take a shot then count the pellets in the head and neck. Now walk back and repeat to get your max range. You want about 6 pellets in the neck and head. Keep moving back till u get to your max range.
Good luck.
PS believe it or not it's almost like calling in rutting bull elk

Sorry, LRSM, I made my reply before reading yours... we agree on all points.