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Bedding Tip I stumbled across.. .

WildRose

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Feb 3, 2011
Messages
15,226
Location
N. Texas and S. Africa
I had some time the other day and decided to bed my M77 Hawkeye FTW edition .260.

It already shot very well but I wanted to see if I could improve on it any.

With the angled bedding screw at the front of the action they ride differently than any of my other rifles but I'd noticed my rear trigger guard screw in particular loosening frequently.

It was late at night an found my clay had dried up to the point of being useless so I looked at what I had around that might allow me to get it finished anyhow.

I have learned to use plenty of release agent and use two different types. One, a spray on zinc stearate RA and Score High Gunsmithing which is almost the same consistency as Kiwi but works much better.

It dawns on me that it's very similar to Johnson's paste wax so I lit it up and let it burn long enough to melt about an inch or so of it.

As it began to thicken I took a brush and just packet it into every nook and cranny of the action I thought might even suffer from "epoxy creep".

It looked like one heck of a mess for sure but I kept on with it.

After doing my stock prep, taping etc I mixed up the bedding epoxy, put a liberal amount of it around the recoil lug and rear tang.

Now this is the important part. When packing the action with release agent, that included the screw holes and I also dipped the screws into the RA leaving them thickly coated and cooling and I repeated it a couple of times as you would making candles.

Well I drop the action in, lightly snug it in place and sure enough the screws just push the RA out as intended.

I checked the screws once an hour or so later and sure enough they move completely without resistance so that part I'm sure worked.

Next day I pop it out and just run hot water over it in the sink to melt the RA and brush/scrub away the rest.

Not only did it work exactly as intended the cleanup was an absolute breeze.
 
I have used Johnsons paste wax and it is awesome stuff.. I just smear it all over everything I don't want the bedding compound to adhere to.
Thanks for sharing.
Ed
 
Plumber's putty is just like clay but never hardens, is cheap, and widely available.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Plumber-s-Putty/4754110
038753311661.jpg
 
Plumber's putty is just like clay but never hardens, is cheap, and widely available.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Plumber-s-Putty/4754110View attachment 85619
Yep, if I'd had some around that would have been my second choice.

This however is the quickest, slickest, and easiest cleanup I've ever had.

I have another one to bed this week or next and I'll experiment on it a little further.

If I have to take it apart with a chisel, hammer, and saw it's ok, It's Mario's gun!
 
Yep, if I'd had some around that would have been my second choice.

This however is the quickest, slickest, and easiest cleanup I've ever had.

I have another one to bed this week or next and I'll experiment on it a little further.

If I have to take it apart with a chisel, hammer, and saw it's ok, It's Mario's gun!
Nothing's quite like experimenting with some one else's stuff !!
 
I had some time the other day and decided to bed my M77 Hawkeye FTW edition .260.

It already shot very well but I wanted to see if I could improve on it any.

With the angled bedding screw at the front of the action they ride differently than any of my other rifles but I'd noticed my rear trigger guard screw in particular loosening frequently.

It was late at night an found my clay had dried up to the point of being useless so I looked at what I had around that might allow me to get it finished anyhow.

I have learned to use plenty of release agent and use two different types. One, a spray on zinc stearate RA and Score High Gunsmithing which is almost the same consistency as Kiwi but works much better.

It dawns on me that it's very similar to Johnson's paste wax so I lit it up and let it burn long enough to melt about an inch or so of it.

As it began to thicken I took a brush and just packet it into every nook and cranny of the action I thought might even suffer from "epoxy creep".

It looked like one heck of a mess for sure but I kept on with it.

After doing my stock prep, taping etc I mixed up the bedding epoxy, put a liberal amount of it around the recoil lug and rear tang.

Now this is the important part. When packing the action with release agent, that included the screw holes and I also dipped the screws into the RA leaving them thickly coated and cooling and I repeated it a couple of times as you would making candles.

Well I drop the action in, lightly snug it in place and sure enough the screws just push the RA out as intended.

I checked the screws once an hour or so later and sure enough they move completely without resistance so that part I'm sure worked.

Next day I pop it out and just run hot water over it in the sink to melt the RA and brush/scrub away the rest.

Not only did it work exactly as intended the cleanup was an absolute breeze.
What compound do you use for bedding and such ? I've used acraglass but I don't have any. I really want to start mounting my Atlas and I need to remove action to access the top of the barrel channel. So, in my infinite wisdom(ha!), figured I might as well pillar it at the same time. Does any of the wood working two part proxies work as well as acraglass, or automotive proxies?
Thanks
Gregg
 
What compound do you use for bedding and such ? I've used acraglass but I don't have any. I really want to start mounting my Atlas and I need to remove action to access the top of the barrel channel. So, in my infinite wisdom(ha!), figured I might as well pillar it at the same time. Does any of the wood working two part proxies work as well as acraglass, or automotive proxies?
Thanks
Gregg
I use Devcon or Marine-tex
Make sure to get the ratio correct or it won't harden all the way or won't harden to full strength. Some guys weigh it but I haven't gone that far and haven't had an issue
 

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I use Devcon or Marine-tex
Make sure to get the ratio correct or it won't harden all the way or won't harden to full strength. Some guys weigh it but I haven't gone that far and haven't had an issue
Ok, thanks. 5min ok for scope mount ? Don't think I want to use it for action bedding, tho. In my world, there are way too many things that can go wrong ! Lol
Gregg
 
The 10110 is 2800 psi shear while the 5 minute is 2026 psi
Marinetex Gray - 1,800 PSI
 
Yep, if I'd had some around that would have been my second choice.

This however is the quickest, slickest, and easiest cleanup I've ever had.

I have another one to bed this week or next and I'll experiment on it a little further.

If I have to take it apart with a chisel, hammer, and saw it's ok, It's Mario's gun!

Hey you know the saying, you break it u buy it!!!!

I just take the beast
 
What compound do you use for bedding and such ? I've used acraglass but I don't have any. I really want to start mounting my Atlas and I need to remove action to access the top of the barrel channel. So, in my infinite wisdom(ha!), figured I might as well pillar it at the same time. Does any of the wood working two part proxies work as well as acraglass, or automotive proxies?
Thanks
Gregg
My preferred epoxy is Devcon Steel Putty.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-bedding-adhesives/epoxy-metals-prod5808.aspx

I also use plain old JB weld frequently.

For addes strength and if you want to add a little weight say to the forend of a light rifle I will add tungsten powder or lead shot to the mix respectively.
 
I use Devcon or Marine-tex
Make sure to get the ratio correct or it won't harden all the way or won't harden to full strength. Some guys weigh it but I haven't gone that far and haven't had an issue
I've got a buddy that's a custom gun builder that swears by the MarineTex. I haven't tried it yet but I plan to.
 
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