Bedding question


Well-Known Member
Aug 30, 2005
Murray, Ky.
I was just curious if the way I bed a action is good or bad. It's a rem 700

I use a 3.5" threaded rod screw them into the action, use them to guide the action into place. Once I've got the action setting in the stock I place a large flat washer on the bottom and run a nut up until it and the washer contact the bottom of the stock the I put (guesstimate) around 20 or so lbs of pressure on it then let it set tell the next day.

Let me know what yall think, smart or not.

There's no real wrong way to bed a gun so long as the end result is achieved. Your making a precision casting of the receiver that is inert to temperature and humidity. You want it strong, resistant to compression, shear, and chemical exposure.

One way to test is to clamp the stock by the forend in a vice. place a magnetic dial indicator base with indicator on your barrel and have the indicator stylus touching the end of the stock.

Loosen a guard screw one at a time and see how much deflection you have on your indicator. Anything more than .001 is considered unacceptable.

With care and thoughtfulness you can cut that in half. Mine register between nothing and a few tenths. Good luck.


Chad, your making me feel bad about my bedding job :D If bedding were art that is what it would look like!!! Very nice!!!
The resin I use is designed for commercial boiler repair. Since I do this for a living there are some things I prefer to keep "in house."

In a nutshell, here's the things I really try to pay attention to:

  1. Use a resin with the properties I mentioned earlier
  2. use a resin with a long open clamp time
  3. Mix the resin on a flat surface rather than a cup.
  4. Put a pan of water on the stove and heat up your resin tubes prior to mixing.
  5. Warm your resin with a hot air gun to bring any air out of suspension, pop them with a tooth pick or dental pick. (this takes practice as you can cook the stuff if your not careful)
  6. Have EVERYTHING in place before you mix your stuff.
  7. Establish an order of operations that works and works for you. there's no wrong answers here, just use common sense and be meticulous.
  8. Ensure your barreled action sits the way you want it to in the stock before you clay it or put release agent on it.
  9. Spread a layer on the action and the stock.
  10. Mask everything you don't want epoxy to stick to. I tape the entire stock from one end to the other and I make little "pull tabs" of tape to peel off the bulk of the mess because it never fails; when I peel the skins off the stock I always seem to get a sliver of bedding under my fingernail(s) and it hurts like hell. I'd be a terrible POW.
That sums it up.

Here's a few additional photos to illustrate. Bear in mind I've made some special tooling to help facilitate all this. Number one being the pillar design I have and two the "bedding Jack" that lifts a barreled action straight up from a stock. Rocking is pure poison as it'll potentially tear the hell out of the recoil lug area. Last is I do ALL my own inletting. a cardinal rule in my shop is I will not build a gun on a stock that's been inletted. There are a few exceptions but they are limited to the "gee wiz" stocks used in Olympic and international smallbore and 300 meter competition. Those kinds of guns basically get reworked as I machine blocks of walnut to fit in the stock in the trigger well/mag well area, then bed, then go back and machine the trigger well/mag well all over again. More work but the end results are worth it IMO.

Anyways, hope this helped some.

All the best,


It starts here: Fitting the barrel to the receiver. Has to so I know where my start point is for writing the barrel channel inlet. I use surface models in CAM software for all this stuff.


Next is a surface model of the receiver. I start with a generic model of that particular action (make/model) then move stuff around so that pillars are in the right locations along with the other features. They ARE NOT all the same. Even when it's two identical receivers!


Now that the puter work is done its off to setting up the stock in the mill. The real secret here is in the work holding. This fixture is one I made. A pair of Kurt vises should illustrate the level of seriousness. They cost about a grand a piece! The stock is now qualified in height and centered on the X axis of the machine.


Now were makin chips. I use a surface model so that I have a bit more control over how the inletting gets done. It takes more time to machine this way, but I think it's worth it. As you can see the tang area is just boxed out. This is an archive pic of how I used to do it. It's been revised quite a bit since then. It's now a virtual mirror image of the action's features. It's a bitch to draw and program sometimes, but the end result is far better I think.


Stocks now inletted and everything is ready for the next step.


As I said, fit everything before you clay/release the barreled action. Don't want slimy stuff in the stock. Resin hates slimy stuff!

Actions all clayed and slimed now.

Green tape madness. DON'T cheap out on tape. The green stuff works the best!


K, action has been gooped (didn't really think I was going to show that part didja?) and now its ready to pull. this is the "action jack" I was talking about. Way overkill, but what the hell? Good tools inspire one to do a good job right?



Now were bedded! This is after poppin the barreled action out of the stock for the first time. Tangs' been filed down to match and its now back to the mill for the 2ndary inletting work.


Before and after. Same resin system. One is just colored differently.


Topside work is done here. Tang fit is pretty good, bolt handle inlet looks ok, and the bolt release, loading port inlets are all tuned up too. Now its onto the bottom side.

Trigger inlet is all done. All stock screws are identical in appearance. A pain to do on the short ones but this way everything matches up real nice.


Front guard screw is fitted and happy now.


Now it's sand, sand, sand, and more sanding till she's ready for final finish, and assembly. Here's a 300 Rem Ultra I just finished up last week. Just got a shoot her and wring it out now.




Notice the gap in the trigger bow in the last photo? That won't do! As you can see in the earlier one I fixed that. Clean seamless lines are a must.

Hope this helped a little and gave someone some pointers.


I have been bedding rifles for around 15 years, spent a year experimenting with a resins company and their industrial chemist to create my 'ideal' kit yet in all of my time, I have never seen such a nice, aesthetically pleasing job as yours.

I also use the green 3M scotchtape, nothing else compares. What I do need to get done, is an update to the Matchgrade online tutorial with the regard to the heat gun/popping air bubbles which was brought to my attention by the chemist a while back. I am also heating up a spatula to do the trim once the job tacks off after a few hours (toffee consistancy).

Anyway, excellent workmanship and sound tips. Thanks for sharing.
Where do you get that green tape? I've never seen it. Period. I want some!

Edited to add: After doing some WEB surfing it looks like one might find it in Automotive stores. Is this right?

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After seeing that, I won't be posting any of my bedding jobs that's for sure!
That's the most impressive bedding job I've ever seen!
I think everyone could pick up some pointers from that tutorial. Thanks Chad.
A few more. . .

Here's an inlet proof in a Stolle Swindelhurst. 2X4's are cheaper than gunstocks!!


The actual finished inlet for the 300Rem Ultra.


Right after poppin her out and after sanding down the tang and the showline edge:

Great looking job Chad. BTW for real professional resin mixing and degassing, look into Thinky or Flacktek mixers. Saves you that heat gun and bubble popping part (which gives the polymer chemist heartburn just reading it:D).
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