Bedding a Christensen Arms Mesa

Beaverbank

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2020
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10
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
I've got a Christensen Arms Mesa chambered in 28 Nosler that I'm trying to work up loads for...I'm shooting 3 shot groups at 100 yds. The problem I'm having is that I seem to get a flier almost every 3 shot group...not necessarily the last shot ( not letting the barrel get too hot, waiting a minute or two between shots.) On these rifles, Christensen Arms puts a little dab of bedding in the recoil lug mortise area.I find the fore stock not very stiff...the barrel is free floated right to the recoil lug...so I was wondering if anybody on this site has bedded a Mesa. I also am wondering if it would help to bed entire action AND first inch or two in front of recoil lug.Also, maybe the bedding isn't the issue...any opinions or thoughts.Brand new Swarovski z3 scope in Talley one piece lightweight rings ( I don't think my scope is faulty.).I don't believe that I'm "pulling" these fliers...most of time this rifle will put two out of the three shots touching and the other shot about an inch away ( again, not always that last shot). If anyone has any suggestions , I'm all ears.Thanks for any help...BJ.
 
The Mesa has a very lightweight barrel and the 28 Nosler burns a lot of powder, waiting a minute or 2 between shots may not be enough!
 
Hey Okie Man ! I agree with the light barrel and lots of powder thoughts....but it could be the 1st,2nd, or 3rd shot that opens up the group, not always the last shot...the first and last shots could be touching, or any combination for that matter.But, you may be right...I'll try longer intervals between shots next time...thanks, BJ.
 
Shooting hand loads. ..162 ELD-X ,80.0 gr H1000, Fed 215M, Nosler brass, 2.815" base to ogive. ..also tried 150 gr.barnes ttsx with both H1000 and RL33. .going to try 160 Accubond next couple of days.
Have you experimented with seating depth? Those bullets can be jump sensitive. We had a couple rifles shooting those bullets that made us scratch our heads until doing seating depth work.
 
If your barrel is 1-9 twist the 162 eld-x will never shoot accurately in your rifle. Try a heavier bullet like a 175 grain eld-x.
 
If your barrel is 1-9 twist the 162 eld-x will never shoot accurately in your rifle. Try a heavier bullet like a 175 grain eld-x.
That doesn't even make sense. The 162 ELDs work awesome in 1-9 to 1-9.5 twists. The 175 ELDs require a 1-8.5 to be fully stable. Don't be giving out advice that doesn't even make sense.
 
Hey Guys! First off, thanks for suggestions and opinions. Jud96.....yes, I have played with different seating depths ( after I made the original post, I went and measured most of group sizes and realized that maybe I'm expecting too much out of this rifle...majority of groups are right around 3/4" at 100 yds. ..but it's how it puts two together and a flier that puzzles me.) But yes, after looking at a bunch of targets that I've shot over the last two weeks, I can see a trend regarding seating length, especially with that 162 ELD-X load.Also agree with you on 162 grain bullet weight...I would think that 162 gr would be right in that Mesa's wheelhouse.Thanks for your comments and making me look at ALL the groups I've shot with this rifle. Reelhardmt. ...started out with new Nosler reloading brass, which turned into once and second fired brass...didn't notice a difference. ..thank you also! Doubledoc. ....I didn't consider that..going to haul the brake of it and check...thanks for the heads up! Again, thanks everyone! P.S....just picked up a couple pounds of N570 and was wondering if anybody has used this powder with 160 Accubonds?
 
That doesn't even make sense. The 162 ELDs work awesome in 1-9 to 1-9.5 twists. The 175 ELDs require a 1-8.5 to be fully stable. Don't be giving out advice that doesn't even make sense.
I will give out advise if I choose to. If your rifle shoots them then that is good for you. I have experienced the same problems he is having. I swapped to 175 elf-x and problem is solved.
 
I almost always bed my actions and typically the chamber area of the barrel, particularly on heavy barrels (I know CA isn't heavy) to ensure the barrel isn't torquing the action.

Easy enough to check action bedding/float issues. Pull the action out of the stock and see if there is uneven paint wear in the action area to indicate movement under recoil. If there is then atleast bed the action.

As a test for the barrel channel/float, put a layer or 2 of 3m 20mm pipe wrap tape in the barrel channel under the chamber area , just enough to get a slight bit of tension/support under the chamber. Bolt it back together and shoot it, if it gets better you have your answer, bed the chamber area and rock on.

Never played with a CA stock but i have had some flimsy factory stocks. What I did was since I was going to be bedding action and likely the chamber area anyways I used my trim router to make a small slot about 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep down the entire barrel channel from about 2" in front of the recoil lug to about 2" from the end of the forend. I then bedded in a 2 pieces of carbon archery arrow (stiff and light) side by side the length of the slot. Once the epoxy dried I used a deep well socket and sandpaper to shape the excess epoxy to the original barrel channel shape and painted the barrel channel. This addition was invisible and stiffened the forend immensely while only adding a few ounces of weight.
 
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Have you checked and double checked your stock screws after shooting. I have a ridgeline and same was happening. I found my screw IN front of floor plate kept working loose. Torqued and lock tighted it no more fliers.
 
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