Bed both ends of rail or just one end???

bluedog69

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May 25, 2021
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299
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USA
I have seen videos where some bed both front and rear of scope rail,
and others where they only bed just the rear and let the front snug on the
gun. I can see where if the outer screws both hit the gun you would about have to bed front and rear.
This would situation that would flex the rail down in the middle.

Most videos I have seen the rail wants to be bowed up in the middle. Just wondering
how many would consider the half bed job good enough? Definitely a little less prep work.
Less likely to flex rail during bed job?
 

bluedog69

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May 25, 2021
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299
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USA
So I just checked my Leupold picatinny back country rail on my wife's new Savage 110 High Country 30-06.
Near as I can tell with a straight edge the rail is straight on top. Unbolted it and it really feels like it has 100%
contact on front and back anyway. I was all fired up to bed a rail but now I am not sure if it is even worth messing with?

Still pondering on bedding the scope in the rings. A little nervous on doing this to her Swaro 30th wedding anniversary
scope though. How many people actually do this? Does it really make a difference? These are Vortex 6 hole tactical rings.
 

david g ranes

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Sep 9, 2009
Messages
577
So I just checked my Leupold picatinny back country rail on my wife's new Savage 110 High Country 30-06.
Near as I can tell with a straight edge the rail is straight on top. Unbolted it and it really feels like it has 100%
contact on front and back anyway. I was all fired up to bed a rail but now I am not sure if it is even worth messing with?

Still pondering on bedding the scope in the rings. A little nervous on doing this to her Swaro 30th wedding anniversary
scope though. How many people actually do this? Does it really make a difference? These are Vortex 6 hole tactical rings.
Darn sure don’t hurt and it could help I’d bed both ends of the rail that’s just me just make sure you use good release agent and your good to go. David
 

jimbires

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Mar 16, 2008
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clearfield county , Pa
I bed the whole rail . I've never bedded a set of rings . here are instructions from Ken Farrell , on bedding a base . you want to keep the base flat , there should be no bow in it .
 

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bluedog69

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Well I just bedded two rails on two rifles. Did the front and the rear. Neither
One acted like they really needed it but I figured couldn’t hurt.
Thanks For the input!!!!!!
 

RWeeks7mm

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Jun 14, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Pennsylvania
This is pretty much the method I used on my Remington 700 LA.


The only thing I varied on was I put screws just in the back and checked to see if the front had a gap also. I had no gap so I just bedded the rear. I guess that it all depends on how well your action and rail are machined.
 

ntsqd

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Nov 16, 2015
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Upper SoKA
The Murphy Method uses the middle two screws (one on each bridge) to get an average of the angle that either the front or the rear are at. If you use just the front two or just the rear two screws you're angling the rail in a way that may or may not be good for staying within the adjustment range of the scope at either extreme of range.
Said differently, you're potentially turning a 20 MOA rail into a rail that effectively is 7.34 MOA or whatever angle it happens to work out as. As an added bonus it has the effect of having metal to metal contact on both receiver bridges. Can think of these contact zones being very much like pillar bedding in that they set the position and angle of the rail.
 

BallisticsGuy

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May 8, 2016
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1,250
Location
Heck
Both ends of the rail every time. I also bed the actions into aluminum chassis and bedding blocks. If two things touch they touch consistently. When you cycle the bolts on my rifles, they ring like a bell. I have no justification for this behavior. It's just something I think helps with harmonic consistency.
 

bluedog69

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May 25, 2021
Messages
299
Location
USA
Well here are my first attempts. I bedded front and back. Used all four screws to barely squeeze glue out. Seeing that they seemed perfect to start with…. No rocking or gaps that I could see I imagine these should be fine. The one with the bad looking spots was either very thin there or need another hour to cure. Anyway. Bout gotta be better than not doing it.
8332C024-1306-48EA-86EE-55B8DAD736C5.jpeg
B0338ED1-BAEE-4B58-A276-5346F6AB23AD.jpeg
They came very clean on the edges too. Doubt you will be able to see at all unless you are looking very hard to see it.
Thanks for all the tips!!!
 

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