BDL bottom metal, does it matter?

[ohiohunter]

Well to my dismay it looks like my adl build is gonna be a bdl. Does it matter what bottom metal I use? Is there any advantages of going w/ a ptg over factory bottom metal?

 

[deadeyedave]

Depends on what stock you are using. B&C accepts PTG quite easily, but Williams not so much. H-S is the other way around, Williams fits nicely but leaves PTG sitting 'proud', which to me is unsightly. McMillian will work with either. If you are ordering from them directly, just specify which brand. Don't know about Manners and some of the others as I've no experience with them. Expect all to require some inlet type fitting.

 

[ohiohunter]

So its about fit and finish not functionality? I'm getting a mcmillan but on the phone the guy didn't seem to concerned about which bottom metal was to be used. So now I'm kind of in a grey area with it.

 

[shortgrass]

Whenever I order I get an "e-mail confirmation" and it has my order number. You might give them a call (have your order number handy) and double check with them. A phone call is cheap to make sure it's right. Might be a 'link' in that "confirmation e-mail" for questions.

 

[Garycrow]

PT&G bottom metal is nice stuff. Bottom metal is bottom metal though and factory or PT&G are both functional. I would always choose aluminum for my builds though, no reason to add weight for no reason. Even on a heavy rifle I'd pick the aluminum, add the weight in the barrel where it'll do some good if you feel the need to go heavier.

My real concern is where you say to your dismay your adl build is going to be a bdl. Why is that? If you're having a rifle built then build it the way YOU want it. I learned a long time ago to not let a gunsmith talk me into doing something I didn't want to on a rifle, I now have a couple of safe queens that are far too heavy for my style of hunting. I'll listen to their advice, consider it then make my own decisions. A gunsmith that won't build a rifle the way you want it needs to be replaced with another gunsmith that will. I personally don't like ADL setups, I want a floorplate, but if you want adl then get it built that way. Get what YOU want built or you won't be happy in the end, don't let a gunsmith talk you into something you don't want or you'll never be happy with the rifle.

To the original question though, PT&G bottom metal is nicer than the factory stuff. I have PT&G aluminum BM that's been cerakoted on two of my rifles. I'd always pick it over factory.

 

[ohiohunter]

Whenever I order I get an "e-mail confirmation" and it has my order number. You might give them a call (have your order number handy) and double check with them. A phone call is cheap to make sure it's right. Might be a 'link' in that "confirmation e-mail" for questions.

I'll call them and make sure but I'm still trying to figure out if its worth the extra cost to go with a "better" brand of BM or just getting a lesser expensive factory BM?

 

[ohiohunter]

I originally wanted an ADL on a 700 action. I switched actions to a predator but had no clue they weren't exactly set up the same as the 700 and to put a long box on it was going to be even more of a pain. It wasn't my smith, it was my decision. I'll get the ptg.

 

[Edd]

I recently bought a Dakota BDL bottom metal. A Wyatt CFE-12 extended magazine is a perfect fit on it.

When I ordered my stock from McMillan I told them which bottom metal and magazine I was using. They get so many stock orders they get complacent. You have to force information on them.

 

[shortgrass]

For those who adhere to action screw torque specs up around 60-65 inch pounds steel bottom metal has its advantages. The same holds true for calibers with heavy recoil. It's not uncommon to see the 'screw head seats' in aluminum bottom metal, milled or cast, worn deeply. I'm not afraid of the few ounces steel adds in favor of its strength over aluminum. I'm all for light weight as long as I'm not compromising to get it. Dakota makes nice bottom metal, too.

 

[ohiohunter]

Would you consider a 300wm heavy recoiling? I may just go w/ the oberndorf. I'd like to save the weight but don't want problems down the road and the difference between aluminium and steel is 5oz which is quite a bit.

 

[shortgrass]

I would. I had a SA Rem. bottom metal sent tp me this past summer that had the counter sinks worn better than half way through. Most likely, the wear came from repeated assembly/dis-assembly. If those 5 oz. are deal killer, you shouid have gone ADL. If the reason you didn't is because the screw hole that secures the mag box wasn't there, well........... I[ll put it this way, if there's metal there drilling and tapping shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Pdvdh]

For those who adhere to action screw torque specs up around 60-65 inch pounds steel bottom metal has its advantages. The same holds true for calibers with heavy recoil. It's not uncommon to see the 'screw head seats' in aluminum bottom metal, milled or cast, worn deeply. I'm not afraid of the few ounces steel adds in favor of its strength over aluminum. I'm all for light weight as long as I'm not compromising to get it. Dakota makes nice bottom metal, too.

Hi Ted,
How about placing a thin small stainless steel washer between the aluminum bottom metal and the heads of the action screws? Let the stainless steel washer suffer the friction and wear and tear motion from the action screw heads? Just in case. But I think someone must have been using an air powered impact wrench to wear down thru that much aluminum on the trigger guard assembly...

I think I'll add a thin stainless washer on a Tikka T3 I'm getting ready to bed into a Manners stock. The additional weight of steel bottom metal is too much needless weight for me, when I'm trying to keep my rifle light for backpack hunting. I'm one of those obsessive/compulsive sheep hunters...

 

[ohiohunter]

I wish the adl set up wasn't such a pain. If anyone has some good suggestions I may still have time to change. I'm running a predator action LA and I want a Wyatt's long box.

 

[shortgrass]

Sure, a steel insert/washer would help as would have a bit of grease and less take it apart/put it together. If you're in a wet climate, yes, it needs to be out of the stock to dry and oil. Otherwise? It seems to me that the inside of a Rem. 700 LA mag box is about 3.690". Not long enough for even the longest .300 Win Mag loads? Or, in your case, did you mean Weatherby Mag? Factory.300 Ultra Mags fit the std.LA box with about an 1/8" to spare. I'm having trouble understanding why the extended box. Can you fill me in? I buit a .280 AI on a Rem LA in ADL style using a McMillian UltraLite Edge. The pillar I made for the front screw is made of aluminum with a steel insert pressed in for the screw head to rest on. A combination escutchon/pillar, if you will, glassed in with MarineTex. 7 1/2lbs. without scope.