bat action tight!

[nosualc]

I think that this could be a case of unrealistic expectations. You can't expect that the act of opening the bolt with the firing pin installed will be as easy as it is without (where simple gravity will allow the bolt to close or open).

I've got two BAT actions in F-Open rifles, and another on the way similar to yours for a LR hunting rifle. IMO, they're as buttery smooth as any action I ever used, but opening the bolt (cocking it) does entail some resistance.

For my actions, the force required to open the bolt is not enough that it greatly upsets my F-Open guns in the rest, but there is some resistance. There has to be, as opening the bolt needs to compress the firing pin spring to cock it.

I'm know that some LR Benchrest guys will fiddle with the spring and the firing pin in order to further lessen the force required, as they way the shoot (5 shots very quickly) puts an emphasis on not upsetting their rifles even the tiniest amount. But this is a rarified environ, and they are prepared to fine tune around reliability concerns.

Once you get it in a rifle with a good trigger I'm sure concerns will fade away. You can also go to a match and ask to feel somebody's elses (road to MN and you're welcome to try mine

-nosualc

 

[Rimfire]

Geez Louise, just get it built and shoot it. Have you compared it side by side with any others. I had over a half dozen actions on the counter at the same time to include 3 VR-PICS, a couple of Stiller Predators, a couple of Stiller Specters and a few Surgeons. The all felt like CRAP without being in a stock. As each came back from the smith fully built they felt great, except for the BAT's they felt outstanding!!!!!

 

[ishootkittens]

Geez Louise, just get it built and shoot it. Have you compared it side by side with any others. I had over a half dozen actions on the counter at the same time to include 3 VR-PICS, a couple of Stiller Predators, a couple of Stiller Specters and a few Surgeons. The all felt like CRAP without being in a stock. As each came back from the smith fully built they felt great, except for the BAT's they felt outstanding!!!!!

I know this is an ancient thread, but this is just an update (SINCE MY OTHER THREAD GOT NO LOVE!)

I installed a timney trigger on the BAT and I really like it so far. No slam fire, no pull weight inconsistencies, breaks with no creep. The bolt lift I had so much trouble with VANISHED as soon as I put that trigger in. But as one problem died, another emerged. My bolt LIFT is smooth as glass, but engaging the bolt is much more difficult. It is almost as if it has a "half-cock" and it gets stuck half way down to its locking position. I can muscle it down, but I dont believe this is normal. As I said, the best way I can describe it is to say that it now feels like it has 3 positions. Open, Halfway, and closed. What is it catching on? Did I do something wrong installing the trigger????

 

[bigngreen]

You should really send it to a professional be for you gall the crap out of your lugs or bolt if you haven't already, I know that is not super helpful but trouble shooting could make a bigger mess when all you need is someone to put their hands on it who knows what to look at.

 

[zfastmalibu]

You have changed your ignition timing and now have cock on close. The top lever to cocking piece engagement surface is farther rearward in your new trigger. You also have more firing pin fall now, which is good. To "fix" it you need to have a timing job done on the action which is a considerable job. The easy way is to grind the top lever of the trigger but then it will cost you pin fall. 3 options, send it to someone who times the ignition on actions, live with it, or put your old trigger in. This is the fault with Bat actions, to get enough pin fall you have to deal with a bunch of cock on close (if the action is not timed). An even hand off will only give about .210" of pin fall in stock form.

 

[ishootkittens]

You have changed your ignition timing and now have cock on close. The top lever to cocking piece engagement surface is farther rearward in your new trigger. You also have more firing pin fall now, which is good. To "fix" it you need to have a timing job done on the action which is a considerable job. The easy way is to grind the top lever of the trigger but then it will cost you pin fall. 3 options, send it to someone who times the ignition on actions, live with it, or put your old trigger in. This is the fault with Bat actions, to get enough pin fall you have to deal with a bunch of cock on close (if the action is not timed). An even hand off will only give about .210" of pin fall in stock form.

I guess ill live have to deal with it for the time being. 1800$ for the action and trigger and I STILL need work done. Ridiculous. As far as the action condition, there is no marks of any kind on the lugs and the bolt body is good as new. But there is a slight mark on the top of the trigger.

 

[zfastmalibu]

Most guys dont have any idea what ignition timing is and dont care. It requires hand work to get them perfect. It is much easier to just cut a generic cam in the bolt and let whatever happens, happen. Borden actions are the only ones that come timed, at around 1200-1300 they are a real deal in my opinion.

 

[ishootkittens]

Most guys dont have any idea what ignition timing is and dont care. It requires hand work to get them perfect. It is much easier to just cut a generic cam in the bolt and let whatever happens, happen. Borden actions are the only ones that come timed, at around 1200-1300 they are a real deal in my opinion.

Ill admit I didnt at first. Its not unbearable by an ymeans, just halfway down there is a slight catch that makes you think u are jammed but with alittle more force slides right in. I guess ill just take it and be happy

 

[ShtrRdy]

I realize this is an old thread but what I'm experiencing might be related to the OP's problem.

I bought a used benchrest rifle off a guy recently and it has a BAT DS action. I can lift the bolt with my index finger, although it feels like there is some drag force. When I close the bolt there is more drag force than I think there should be. (There's that individual perception again)

I got a firing pin removal tool and was able to remove the firing pin. Two things I noticed that don't seem right.

1. with just the bolt with firing pin removed, the bolt doesn't close on its own. I have to lightly press the bolt handle down to close the bolt. It seems the clearance between the bolt handle and the back of the action and the bolt lugs contacting the lug abutment is an interference fit. With the bolt closed or bolt handle lifted very slightly, there is no forward/backward movement. (that's good for the primary extraction though)

2. with the firing pin removal tool holding the firing pin back in the bolt shroud, when I insert the firing pin into the bolt I have moderate to heavy drag felt the last, about, 1/4" before the firing pin is all the way in. If I turn the firing pin assembly while fully inside the bolt there is some distinct resistance. The resistance is there while the firing pin retaining lugs are not having to hold it in place. It's just the firing pin assembly inserted into the bolt body.

Any idea where this interference is coming from?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

This is an old thread and things have changed. Bats are usually timed right out of the box with enough pin fall. Been like that for about 3-4 years now. Your issue sounds like there is no clearance between the cone breach of the barrel and the front of the bolt lugs. Break the barrel loose and see if that fixes your problem. If it does the 25 degree cone on the barrel will need about .005 taken off of it.