Base screws sheared off

You mentioned that the scope tube has wrinkles in it. That may be really bad. When you remount it check your tracking and make sure it holds a zero. Seen something similar happen with small dent in the tube that required a Leopold to get returned. The tube was bent.
It is right at the objective where it hit the ground. So far, clarity and elevation tracking are good.
 

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I have one piece Stiller rings/bases on my Edge. Asked my Smith to pin it during the build, he said it wasn't necessary if the screws were torqued properly. He did bed the top of the receiver with a light coating of red Loctite to appease me. Have never had an issue...
 
From looking at the pics, you only have 2 linear points of contact at the edges of the base, both front and rear. All you need to do is de-grease the base, apply release agent to the action and new screws, then bed it. It'll stay put. You just don't have enough surface contact as it sits now.
 
From looking at the pics, you only have 2 linear points of contact at the edges of the base, both front and rear. All you need to do is de-grease the base, apply release agent to the action and new screws, then bed it. It'll stay put. You just don't have enough surface contact as it sits now.
Bedded the base yesterday. Shot today some more and have a good enough load for the elk opener in a couple of weeks.
 

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I have one piece Stiller rings/bases on my Edge. Asked my Smith to pin it during the build, he said it wasn't necessary if the screws were torqued properly. He did bed the top of the receiver with a light coating of red Loctite to appease me. Have never had an issue...
I didn't think they'd move neither until tapping the side/front of the base while the barrel was viced and a .0005 mic on the opposite end. Never thought a .5 ounce engraving hammer could do so much with little to no effort.

Now every rig has either a pinned or milled into the receiver scope base.
 
Hank's makes a very good base for heavy recoiling rifles and muzzleloaders that has a drop down stop at the receiver opening that will not allow the base to move forward under any recoil condition. It's a very well thought out design that really works and looks like it takes almost all of the stress off the screws. It's still a good idea to bed the base to the action to avoid any stress on the scope. I use the aluminum one on my muzzeloaders.
https://hanksprecisiongunparts.com/p/remington-700-picatinny-rail-416-stainless-steel
 
A friend of mine brought me his 30-06 that was not shooting well. He had gone after the scope screws but didn't check the bases. The screws were all loose and it had been hammering on the locating pins for some time. The front screw started it because it was too long. I fixed the pins, degreased the holes, cut the screws down, and used loctite. I torqued them down and remounted the scope. It should be good to go now.

Loctite and proper torque are important. A good surface finish is just as important.
Blue Loctite only, never RED.
 
I have a Ridgeline in .300 win with an NX8, Seekins rings and an Area 419 rail with an integrated recoil lug. I degreased the receiver, used quick dry JB Weld and torqued the #6 screws to spec with blue loctite. The mount was loose in roughly 75 rounds. Just an example of trying to do everything "right" and still having issues. I blame it on a 30 oz scope, an 8.5 lb magnum and a very efficient brake in no particular order. Planning to have receiver d&t for #8 screws as well as pinned very shortly.
 
I have a Ridgeline in .300 win with an NX8, Seekins rings and an Area 419 rail with an integrated recoil lug. I degreased the receiver, used quick dry JB Weld and torqued the #6 screws to spec with blue loctite. The mount was loose in roughly 75 rounds. Just an example of trying to do everything "right" and still having issues. I blame it on a 30 oz scope, an 8.5 lb magnum and a very efficient brake in no particular order. Planning to have receiver d&t for #8 screws as well as pinned very shortly.
I worked on a buddies 300 ridgeline this past summer, his ridgeline base screws came loose quick. But they had just been torqued without loctite. So we just used loctite on the second try. Good to know that may not work either. But his scope is light, vortex LHT.
 
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