Barrel contour 338Lapua

[Rogre]

Hi.
I'm going to build me a longrange hunting/target rifle, and need some advice. The action I was thinking about is a Barnard PL. Mcmillan Tooley stock and a 34-36" Border barrel.
Can somebody help me choosing the contour and of the barrel, with a barrel-block and without?

Roger

 

[Nighthawk]

The barrel that I ordered a few months ago (which I still have to wait a month

) has a dismeter of .970" straight taper and is 34" long. Will let you know when I get to shooting it if you like.

 

[Brent]

Rogre,

I put a 1.35" straight Lilja (10.5#) on the Rem 700 for the 30/338 Lapua IMP. It's shooting tiny little groups with pretty near every bullet I've used and I'm happy. It's going in a different stock and using a 10" barrel block here in a month or so.

My brother has a Rem 700 in 338/378 WBY and it's got a 32" bbl with a Holland brake, probably 34-35" overall. The barrel is almost .900" at the muzzle, straight taper. It's in a Choate Ultimate Sniper stock and he's added some weight to the butt, weighs about 17# now. No bbl block on it. Shoots the 300gr MK into little groups too.

Most guys say 30" 1.25" dia straight is about the most they'd go, and they do work well, bedding doesn't last with the 700 action though, just not enough bedding area. The Choate has full aluminum beeding so it isn't a problem on his.

The one I had built was a bit bigger diameter than that, a full 30", and going in a BR stock, so I just decided I'd use a block on it. It is working well as is tho.

Hope that helps some.

 

[Rogre]

Is it possible to use a barrel block in a Mcmillan A5 (A3 or tooley.) with a 1.35" barrel?

 

[Brent]

Rogre,

Chris Matthews might have an A-5 laying around that he could measure the width of the top of the forend on. You "might" have enough meat on the sides left after milling it out for the block, but you may have to use a 1.25" dia bbl to be comfortable with its rigidity.

I'm leaving .200" - .250" in each side of the aluminum block, not sure exactly what, but I might mill the sides down some when we get to it. it's .250" per side right now.

If you use a steel block, you could go even thinner per side, maybe .125" - .150" I'd guess?

Knowing the aluminum block had .250" thick sides, I added .5" to bbl dia. and looked for a forend that I felt was wide enough that I didn't have to mill down the block thinner, I still might mill it down some, as the top of the forend on this Master 1000 stock is still kind of thin for my liking with that much removed.

I think the A-4 and A-5 would have definitely had to of used a thinner block, I did look at using the A-5, as it had just came out. If I remember, McMillan told me 1.25" with out a block is what the A-4 could be inletted for. It would have too close with the aluminum block I figured, so I found a stock with a wider forend to work with.

My next barrel will be 1.25" dia so I can use the A-5 with no problems.

 

[chris matthews]

Rogre,
I'll measure an A5 tomorrow at the shop and post here tomorrow evening on my findings.
Chris
For what it's worth my Lapua has a 30" + 2" of muzzle brake 1.250 at breech. 0.975 at muzzle. No block.
In a setup like you want, you could get away without a block if your smith will bed the action with a 4-6" barrel pad under the chamber area. I have built a couple of guns like mine with 34" barrels using this set-up and had no problems and all shoot really well.

[ 12-01-2003: Message edited by: chris matthews ]

 

[ewallace]

My 338 Yogi (lapua imp) has a 34" + 2" brake 1.450 for 10" HV taper Lilja no block. I put this barrel in a block in a custom Bear stock for 1000 Yard BR.
Crow Mag

 

[chris matthews]

The A5 is 1.8" across the flat in front of the lug. By my figures if you used a 1.35" barrel it would leave 0.225" on each side for the block wall without looking like complete ***.
Personally I would use another stock if going the block method.

 

[Brent]

Chris,
Just to clarify: Is that 1.8" measurement there about as wide as you would "inlet it" forward of the recoil lug, or the whole width at the top edge?

I'm guessing if there's about .225" left on each side for the block, there's 2.25" or so in total stock width?.

I've got a picture of the bottom view of an A5, but no top view, and it gets wider in the forend area.

I like your setup with the 34" bbl and brake, and don't see that as too much, that's basically what my brother has on his, although your's might be a bit larger diameter at the muzzle. 2-4 more inches wouldn't be much more if tapered like that, I know my 30", 1.35" dia at the muzzle is **** heavy and works with no problem. I figured it's so heavy out there, a block couldn't hurt.

 

[chris matthews]

Brent,
It is the whole width across the top. At that point the stock "corners" into the rouned sides which I would not inlet into. Meaning the block could be 1.8" max, still look good and would not compromise the stock.
Hope that's as clear as mud.

 

[Rogre]

I'm still having some questions about Mcmillan stocks.

chris matthews said that with a A5 I can use a 1,8" block. What about a McHale? Can I use a 1,8" block there? From the pictures the McHale looks wider.


Roger

 

[chris matthews]

The McHale measures approx. 1.850" only 0.050 wider than the A5.
With the set up we've been talking about I would forget the block idea. The tactical stocks just wasn't made for that. If you think you must have a block then your kinda stuck to the benchrest style or maybe the 50 cal McMillans.

 

[Rogre]

That wasn't the reply I was hoping for..

Is there any pictures of the Big Mac stock with a smaller action? All I can find is with a 50bmg..