Barrel cleaning and settling down...

[remingtonman_25_06]

So I did a thing last week out of pure boredom due to this BS virus and being locked in my house, so I scrubbed and cleaned all my rifles with foam cleaner and a nylon brush. Squeaky clean...So I went out to the range yesterday and proceeded to shoot said rifles, 240 why, 280 rem, 7-300 mag. Now these rifles all shoot 1/2 MOA consistently. Well needless to say, they're now shooting about 1.5-3 MOA...I shot around 15 shots out of each and the only ones that started to settle down were the 280 and the 7-300. They're down around 1 MOA. The 240 WBY is still around 2 MOA. Not very happy and I won't be cleaning my barrels anytime soon again until I visibly start to see the groups go to crap. Lesson learned...who knows how long they're going to take to settle back in. Thought it would only take a few rounds honestly. I've never seen these rifles shoot so bad with proven loads in my life. Not a happy camper..

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

I took the 7-300 out of the stock, and also put a new scope on it, a MK4 8-25x...The other 2 I didn't take out of the stock or switch scopes around. After I scrubbed with a nylon brush and foam cleaner, I put 5 dry patches through them to make sure no crud was left behind. Patches all came out white. Then I proceeded to run 1 patch through them with Rem oil, and that was it. I dried the chamber with tips and patches best I could. The 7-300 has a Bartlein barrel, the 280 is a KS 700 factory barrel, and the 240 WBY is a vanguard with the factory barrel as well. They're all shooting like garbage and I put like 15 rounds through each of them. I too figured they would settle down after 2-3 shots, at most 5...However much to my surprise, they did not and still didn't after 15 rounds. I got so mad, I packed up and went home. Waste of bullets and time.

 

[gunaddict]

What foam cleaner did you use? I have not had that problem with WipeOut. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[Barrelnut]

If you took all the copper out and got them down close to bare metal. Might not start to get tight again until about 25. Hard to get that much stuff out though unless you are using a bore paste like JB Bore Paste or something.

 

[Savage 12BVSS]

I used to clean a lot more than I do now. Most of my barrels are match but some are factory savage, the factory barrels are rougher and lose more accuracy than the match which also lose some as well. I shoot at least 50 rounds thru before cleaning and don't try to clean to a squeaky bare metal when I do. 8-10 patches with one wet with copper remover and the rest a mild solvent. They shoot pretty good with a couple fouling shots first and then target work.

 

[Laelkhunter]

After the season, I clean down to the bare metal, as you did. When I start shooting later on in the next year, it takes 6 to 8 shots before it starts to tighten up again.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

My 240 WBY and 7mm had probably 150 rounds through them. The 7mm was still shooting 3/8 MOA before I cleaned it and swapped scopes. The 240 I thought needed cleaned because it was starting to jump 100fps in velocity and my groups were starting to open up to around 1 MOA. So I figured I was getting some carbon build up. The 280 i bought used and didn't know the round count or when it was cleaned last, so i did that one just out of peace of mind. The foam bore cleaner i used is Hoppes elite foam bore cleaner for carbon/lead/copper.

 

[aushunter1]

Your ranges are still open

Anyway did you remove the barreled actions from the stocks??

If you did then did you toque them back to the exact same original torque??

This could be part of it, coupled with letting the barrel re foul.

In saying that it usually only takes 3 or 4 shots for my rifles to be back to bang on after a clean.

 

[Skimbleshanks]

My rifles usually settle down by the 3rd group fired after a cleaning. Never had one take so long that I really noticed. Im not super anal about cleaning though. Hoppes #9 or Wipe out foam till patches come out 75% better than the first patch. And I only clean if accuracy starts going south or I've had an especially rainy/muddy day out.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

It's a private range, so not open to general public, just me and a buddy...I took the 7-300 out of the stock, and also put a new scope on it, a MK4 8-25x...The other 2 I didn't take out of the stock or switch scopes around. After I scrubbed with a nylon brush and foam cleaner, I put 5 dry patches through them to make sure no crud was left behind. Patches all came out white. Then I proceeded to run 1 patch through them with Rem oil, and that was it. I dried the chamber with tips and patches best I could. The 7-300 has a Bartlein barrel, the 280 is a KS 700 factory barrel, and the 240 WBY is a vanguard with the factory barrel as well. They're all shooting like garbage and I put like 15 rounds through each of them. I too figured they would settle down after 2-3 shots, at most 5...However much to my surprise, they did not and still didn't after 15 rounds. I got so mad, I packed up and went home. Waste of bullets and time. I used the Hoppes Elite carbon/lead/copper foam bore cleaner.

 

[Jud96]

I recently did some load work up with my .308 Norma Mag. It has a Bartlein barrel on it with about 200 rounds on it. I decided to completely clean it down to bare metal to remove any jacket material from the Hornady bullets since I was going to be trying Bergers. I have never cleaned it this thoroughly in the past. I only ever cleaned it a couple times before and I just would get the carbon out and leave most of the little bit of copper in it. Well I ended up getting higher velocities about 25 rounds into load development. The same exact charge weights were 30-40fps faster after having the barrel fouled in than when clean. It threw me off, but I narrowed it down to the barrel needing more shots than I expected to foul in completely.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

.So I just got done checking my 7-300 and I noticed my top ring screws were a bit loose and the 1/2" nuts were maybe 1/8 turn loose as well. Also my scope was perfectly leveled before I shot it, and now it is slightly canted, per the wheeler bubble levels...That's odd, I tightened all screws until they wouldn't tighten anymore...My action screws are still tight. The scope appeared to have slid back at least a 1/4" I know this because it left skid Mark's all down my brand new MK4 scope...Not very happy right now...I'm using a 20 MOA weaver rail with the 6 screw tactical rings. I never had an issue with the scope moving before I switched scopes. I'm going to take the 1/2" nuts off and see where the bar is in relation to the slots on the rail. I always slide the bar towards the muzzle, then tighten as that's what I have read to do anyway. Since the opposite reaction to the shoulder during firing, everything else moves forward. I'm kinds at a loss here. Now I'm gonna have to check my base, loosen the top ring screws, relevel the scope, and tighten everything back down. I have always followed up my barrel cleaning with a patch of Rem oil, since my rifles are in a safe 99% of the time. I will try what you recommended however and report back. My other 2 rifles are all tight, action screws and rings included. So my guess is maybe it's that Rem oil messing with them.

 

[Jud96]

Don't just tighten things down until they won't get any tighter. You're just asking for more trouble, especially if you're doing that to your scope ring screws. Always use a torque wrench and follow the scope manufacturers recommended torque specs. The next you need is an oval shaped scope tube.

 

[Mikecr]

Sounds like it may be more than a cleaning problem.
But, there is nothing wrong with managing bores after white metal clean. After all, great benchrest shooters do it.
Also, there is never anything 'good' about copper fouling. The best barrels in the world barely copper foul, if at all, so it's not like it's needed. In contrast, the worst barrels in the world can copper foul out in 5-10shots (I've seen this).

The trick is having a fouling plan, and developing with it.
For example, your plan might be to clean everything, every time, and adding a good alcohol wash to dry. Then dry pre-foul, so that you can count on a first shot like any to follow. I find tungsten disulfide (WS2) excellent for this.
While I suppose less convenient than shoddy or seldom cleaning, it is absolutely consistent.

You know, no matter how complex, if you do it to the point of habit, it's easy. And you don't think of it in terms of easy or difficult. Instead, it becomes right or wrong.