Barrel break-in ?

Little Toes,

Mike Rock supplies the barrels to the US Army for their M24 SWS (Sniper Weapon Systems). Moly provides a very good burnish to the barrel prior to shooting and it also fills in any micro lines in the barrel. Basically it's a one time process, and not a not a repeat process unless the user wishes to. Therefore there is no moly build up. This is what Mike does with all his barrels before they are shipped. This is not to say that there are not other products such as moly that will provide a good burnish, but when I did my research I didn't find anyone mentioning them.


The goal starting out with any new barrel is make sure it has a good burnish on it to prevent any metal-to-metal contact. Shooting uncoated bullets also provides an excellent burnish on the barrel. The goal in cleaning is to clean any powder, carbon and copper fouling out and not remove the burnish. Bore cleaners and bronze brushes do an excellent job of this. Using JB's and Flitz type products clean so well they will remove the burnish and leave you with the metal-to-metal contact. That's why it's advised to use those abrasive cleaners sparingly.

I hope it helps.

[ 02-29-2004: Message edited by: Jeff In TX ]
 
I have never had a match barrel so wont comment on them. For a rough factory barrel, if you don't hand lap, shoot one and clean to bare metal is what I would do and have done. You will find that after a few rounds (3-10) the barrel will become much easier to clean. Now you have smoothed out the rough machine marks. Once this is done I go to cleaning when accuracy drops or long storage time. I also don't clean like crazy after the breakin. Just enough to get most of the stuff out. This has worked the best for me on factory barrels.
 
I appreciate all the help!!!!!
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Oregonhunter
 
Jeff In TX--
Mike does NOT supply the M24 SWS barrels. He provided the original barrels for the prototypes, but they were all eventually changed out, also. Remington makes all the M24 barrels in house, and have since the start of the M24 SWS program.
BTW, I have one of Mike Rock's barrels on my latest .308 project gun, and it was the worst fouling barrel I have ever had, factory or otherwise, for the first 30 rds. I HAD to use Flitz and JB to get the copper out, as the Sweets, CR-10, Shooters Choice, etc. didn't even make a dent in it. I never got it all out, and am still in the process of barrel "break-in" and the fouling has slowed considerably. I have other brands of barrels(Hart, Pac-Nor, Shilen, K&P, etc)and don't know if I will buy another Rock as NONE of these have ever fouled as bad as the Rock.
 
I have been talking to ALOT of people about barrle brake in. I have heard it ALL!!! From shooting 1 and clean and on and on and on, to using lubs to wet lap your barrle. I talked to a bulletion at serria and ask him. He said barrel brake in lapping the barrel, fire forming what ever all depends on how many shots your are going to fire. Barrel brake, lapping ect only keeps you form loosing accuracy between cleaning. The more lapping, brake in what ever you do just adds to the # of shots in a string you can fire before accuracy is hurt. In factory barrel he said just shoot a your gun and clean at the end of season or if you see lose in accuracy. Sounds good to me I just plan on watching for any cooper build up and if I see any take care of it. The hole brake in thing is blown way out of the water. If you want clean after every box and you'll be just fine.
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Just curious, how do yo plan on watching for the copper build up? Do you have a bore scope? Kinda hard to see without one, ain't it?
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If you do clean in between boxes you'll notice the cooper on your wet patches. I don't like trying to sell things here or peoples products. As I have seen the hell fire it can bring. This is and informitive web site the best I know about on the web, and should kept to info and tips and I hate to say storys.
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But since I have no gain on this buy vol 3 on Point blank from long range. Awesome barrel tips, plus good hunting video.
 
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