Barrel blocks


New Member
Nov 15, 2003
I'm curious about your barrels with bedding blocks. I'm going to have a rifle built, already have barrel and stock on order. I understand most about barrel blocks, but am still confused. They are glued onto the barrel? Is the ID almost identical to the OD of the barrel, or is there some clearance for the glueing? Just curious about these. Thanks
I've seen about .020 to .030 on a side as clearance, then epoxy is injected in to fill the space. Let it set up and it's in there permanent like.
How long can a barrel be before it's recommended to use a barrel block?
And can a barrel block be inserted to a McMillan A3 or Hale


I don't believe you'd have a problem with a block in the A-Series stocks, but you would need to consider the stock width first, then how much you'd need to leave on each side to maintain stock rigidity. Next, the side thickness you need to retain rigidity on the sides of the block would be different with steel verses aluminum. This will tell you what the maximum diameter of the barrel could then be.

The maximum length of the barrel would also hinge upon the taper of the barrel to a point. I found 30" 1.25" - 1.35" dia barrels without blocks are used, but most are on larger diameter and sometimes longer barrel tennons, but some are not. Bedding surface and bedding life was the main thing in question. The barrel block removes all stress from the action (if freefloated) and also provides maximum bedding surface, also being a zero flex recoil lug ta boot.

For the Rem 700 in 30/338 Lapua Imp that I had done, it will use a barrel block with the 1.35" dia tube, but it works fine without one presesntly.

My brothers Rem 700 in 338/378 WBY has a 32" bbl tapered to 900" at the muzzle, and a Holland brake in addition to that. It's in a Choate Sniper stock with no barrel block and works fine.
I have a differant type of barrel block. Bill Shahane makes one that clamps on the barrel. Block is 6" long and tightens up underneath barrel, all screws are hidden.
This block is on a 30" heavy varmint. Bill will tell you that a block will help with vertical strings at 1000+ yards. Also the clamp on will help when its time to rebarrel. I think the blocks look really cool, if nothing else.
Also with a block keep in mind this will raise your scope higher. In turn raise your cheek off the stock.
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