Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Barrel behaves
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 25008" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>Denny,</p><p></p><p><em>I would like to get more info from you about the in/# torque wrench.</em></p><p>You need one that starts at 0in/# and goes up. You'll find cheap ones that start at 25in/# but that doesn't go down far enough. Any ft/# torque wrench is too course to do anything with. And chances are you'll end up putting to much torque on those screws in the aluminum and stripping the threads. My blocks are made of brass(not really a big deal) but I installed threaded inserts (heli-coils) to stop galling and possiblity stripping the threads in mine. They are sold at your local auto-parts store to dig out the 250# backyard mechanic that can't lay-off using is 1/2" breaker bar on all bolts threaded into aluminum engine blocks. <img src="http://images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><em> At first I wanted to have split block, but now I'm leaning torward to get one piece block.</em></p><p>Are you referring to a glued sleeve? or simply a block with a slit in one side of it? The one piece split blocks don't seem to influence the barrel as much as a 2 pcs split block IMO. You can still tune them but to a different degree. I'll have to defer some in this department. I have limited experience with a block with only one slit in it. BUT.. that isn't a bad thing either. That was always the headache in the past of keeping a 2 pcs block gun tuned up. It was easier to get tuned but you had one more variable to give you variations with to keep it tuned.</p><p> This was one reason a lot of shooters went to the glued sleeve method. But you loose the ability to tune via a torque wrench altogether. The glue sleeve doesn't impart any stress whats-so-ever (if done correctly). The disadvantage is that it is more work to install and remove when rebarreling. But I think you using your rifle primarily for a hunting gun correct? If so this may not be a big deal as you won't have to rebarrel after every match season. So not a big deal.</p><p> </p><p><em>Can you tune up the screws on one piece block?</em></p><p>see my comments above about a 1 pcs block with a slit down the top or one side.</p><p></p><p><em> I was looking at the pictures I took at Williamsport and it seemed that the screws are very small on top of the block. I don't think it can be tune up with it, huh? [/I}</em></p><p><em> Most (if not all) blocks guns I've seem used 1/4-20 caphead machine screws. Plenty of torque there. You'll strip out the threads in the aluminum before the screw fractures. I was told by one top long range smith that they air-gauged a barrel before and after clamping with a barrel block and could measure a difference.... a very, very,very small difference. That was a 1.250 barrel if I remember correctly. </em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em><em> Estimate weight on 9" aluminum one piece block? (I'd probably let Baer make one for me)</em></em></p><p><em>can't answer that one Denny. My brass block gun has the bottom half of the block permanantly glued into the stock. So I can't weigh it and covert it to aluminum density. Bruce has a lot of experience with this stuff obviously. I would tell him what your want as the end product and let him tell you how to do it. That is part of the price you pay when dealing with a smith with his LR experience. He's done enough split blocks and glued sleeves he could probably do them in his sleep and tell you what they would weigh from memory.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>Steve</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ 01-17-2003: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ]</em></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 25008, member: 22"] Denny, [I]I would like to get more info from you about the in/# torque wrench.[/I] You need one that starts at 0in/# and goes up. You'll find cheap ones that start at 25in/# but that doesn't go down far enough. Any ft/# torque wrench is too course to do anything with. And chances are you'll end up putting to much torque on those screws in the aluminum and stripping the threads. My blocks are made of brass(not really a big deal) but I installed threaded inserts (heli-coils) to stop galling and possiblity stripping the threads in mine. They are sold at your local auto-parts store to dig out the 250# backyard mechanic that can't lay-off using is 1/2" breaker bar on all bolts threaded into aluminum engine blocks. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [I] At first I wanted to have split block, but now I'm leaning torward to get one piece block.[/I] Are you referring to a glued sleeve? or simply a block with a slit in one side of it? The one piece split blocks don't seem to influence the barrel as much as a 2 pcs split block IMO. You can still tune them but to a different degree. I'll have to defer some in this department. I have limited experience with a block with only one slit in it. BUT.. that isn't a bad thing either. That was always the headache in the past of keeping a 2 pcs block gun tuned up. It was easier to get tuned but you had one more variable to give you variations with to keep it tuned. This was one reason a lot of shooters went to the glued sleeve method. But you loose the ability to tune via a torque wrench altogether. The glue sleeve doesn't impart any stress whats-so-ever (if done correctly). The disadvantage is that it is more work to install and remove when rebarreling. But I think you using your rifle primarily for a hunting gun correct? If so this may not be a big deal as you won't have to rebarrel after every match season. So not a big deal. [I]Can you tune up the screws on one piece block?[/I] see my comments above about a 1 pcs block with a slit down the top or one side. [I] I was looking at the pictures I took at Williamsport and it seemed that the screws are very small on top of the block. I don't think it can be tune up with it, huh? [/I} Most (if not all) blocks guns I've seem used 1/4-20 caphead machine screws. Plenty of torque there. You'll strip out the threads in the aluminum before the screw fractures. I was told by one top long range smith that they air-gauged a barrel before and after clamping with a barrel block and could measure a difference.... a very, very,very small difference. That was a 1.250 barrel if I remember correctly. [I] Estimate weight on 9" aluminum one piece block? (I'd probably let Baer make one for me)[/I] can't answer that one Denny. My brass block gun has the bottom half of the block permanantly glued into the stock. So I can't weigh it and covert it to aluminum density. Bruce has a lot of experience with this stuff obviously. I would tell him what your want as the end product and let him tell you how to do it. That is part of the price you pay when dealing with a smith with his LR experience. He's done enough split blocks and glued sleeves he could probably do them in his sleep and tell you what they would weigh from memory. Steve [ 01-17-2003: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ][/I] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Barrel behaves
Top