Banish brand suppressor?

[John Beau]

I ordered a Banish 30 yesterday. GREAT experience and they included a free 22 caliber suppressor. I don't know how long that deal will last . I had to buy the additional stamp. Now the wait

 

[KY_Windage]

Have you watched this video? It is well worth your time if you are getting a Banish.


Here is my Banish maintenance kit:

1. Ratchet with T-45 (torx) tool. SC did NOT supply any T-45 tool with my Banish. I think they should on such a large purchase (and you definitely will need one), but I had to go buy one. I had a lot of torx tools but not a 45. You don't need the ratchet -- a simple L-shaped T-45 wrench like the one in the video will work fine. I just wanted to have a small ratchet with me anyway. I do not see it is at all necessary to glue the end-cap removal key to the T-45 (as in the video) but it would not hurt to glue it.

2. Spare O-rings, FDA Silicone O-rings, 1-1/8" ID x 1-1/4" OD. Pack of 50 is $8 on eBay, which is about a 50-year supply.

3. Chop Stick. This is what I use to push the fouled baffles out of the tube. I suppose you might need the $50 tool SC sells for this if you went long enough w/o cleaning, but I never go more than 500 rounds or so (and then only when shooting p-dogs) w/o cleaning, and the chop-stick has always worked fine.

4. Homemade expansion sleeve removal tool. The video says to just leave the sleeve in and let it get cemented in place with carbon, but what if my suppressor ever gets dunked in water? Nah, I want it to come out for cleaning every time, so I made the pictured tool. Having the sleeve out makes re-assembly simpler, too. I can SEE that the baffles and sleeve are together correctly before I slide the tube down onto the stack.

The black rubber washers, nylon washers, carriage bolt, nuts and steel washers are available at hardware stores like Lowes. The rubber washers are bigger than the ID of the tube, so when forced in they grab the sleeve and easily pull it out, even when the suppressor has been thoroughly fouled with carbon. The piece of PVC pipe makes sure the steel bolt never touches any part of my suppressor. The nylon washers, which are slightly larger in OD than the steel flat washers, make sure the steel washers never touch the tube. I have to be careful when getting the rubber washers started into the tube, but all in all it works great, though USUALLY I do not need it because the wooden fork/paper towel (discussed below) grabs the sleeve and pulls it out just fine. The tool is needed only with I go a long time between cleanings.

5. Wooden salad fork. When I place a folded paper towel over the fork, it just fits into the tube, and into the sleeve. That allows me to clean the inside of the sleeve a bit, making it easier for the rubber washers on the sleeve removal tool to grab the sleeve. The fork/towel is also all you need to clean the inside of your tube -- no need to boil it in the vinegar with the baffles and expansion sleeve.

6. Trident Silicone Grease. Available at dive shops or on eBay. After cleaning I coat all my internal surfaces with it. It seems to help a bit to prevent bonding between the carbon and the baffles, etc.

That is my kit. Not pictured are the vinegar, pot and camp stove for boiling the vinegar OUTDOORS. You don't want to boil vinegar in your kitchen. . The vinegar costs about $2/gallon at hardware stores, Walmart, etc.

Now, with an 11-month wait time, you will have plenty of time to build your Banish maintenance kit, so you will be ready when it arrives. You're going to love it.

 

[cynjon]

I like that Expansion tube removal tool that you made. I may have to try that. I'm with you--SC says it's fine to leave it in place but I prefer to remove it. Mine has come out easily each time I've cleaned mine, but I tend to clean every couple hundred rounds or so. You should send your idea to SC...maybe they'll add the tool to the baffle removal kit!

 

[Tangent]

So would I, Tangent. But I have the option -- I can either not clean and have the same very good accuracy you see, or I can clean and get superb accuracy.

Assuming, of course, I have a rifle/cartridge combination that will produce superb accuracy with or without suppression.

What happens when you don't clean over thousands of rounds is that the carbon continues to build up throughout the suppressor, including where it really matters to accuracy -- on the baffle holes -- until you get a "de-contruction" of the carbon out of the baffle holes by a blast of gas. You may have shot a very good 5-shot group right before the de-construction, and you may shoot a very good one right afterwards, but they will not be in the same spot. Cleaning gives me the option of having my groups shoot to the same POI every time I take the rifle out.

Now, I have to be honest -- cleaning is a pain in the neck. But so is trimming and neck-turning my brass to fit my chamber precisely, and checking bullet concentricity. Most people are not going to do those things.

But if you want the best accuracy possible, I would get a suppressor that can be easily disassembled for frequent cleaning. Just because you can clean it does not mean you have to -- it just gives you the option.

No need to put words in my mouth brother. My experience is 1/2 MOA 5 shot groups are consistent with same POI. And that is using factory ammo - no wasting time tuning loads. I have no doubt I am the weak link there. I unscrew the suppressor every time I leave the range, and screw it on every time I go back. Same POI. I own multiple suppressors, and not all are Thunderbeasts - but several are. A lot of my buddies have various cans too. I recommend TBAC because of their precision, quality, repeatability, etc., not to validate my purchase.

Taking apart a pistol can or 22 can makes a lot of sense. Moving parts in a precision can, not so much. Screwing & unscrewing do-dads on the end, also not a great idea for a precision can. Needing a maintenance kit for a precision can - no thanks. In a couple thousand more rounds, I'll send my 30P-1 to Thunderbeast to clean it up (for free). Other than that, I'll just keep on shooting it.

Like I said before, I truly think it's great that you're happy with your purchase. But the more that is said about the Banish, the less I would consider it for a primary precision can.

 

[KY_Windage]

Taking apart a pistol can or 22 can makes a lot of sense. Moving parts in a precision can, not so much. Screwing & unscrewing do-dads on the end, also not a great idea for a precision can.

I finding it amusing that you would worry that disassembling and re-assembling precision-machined parts might hurt the accuracy of my Banish, but you have no concern about the buildup of large amounts of carbon constricting your baffle holes. My experience with crowns, where even tiny imperfections in the outer portion, well away from the bore exit hole, can wreak havoc on accuracy tells me that carbon buildup on baffles is likely to have a significant effect on accuracy.

Well, in any case, my sample targets speak for themselves. The two groups shot with the clean suppressor measured .421" and .435" (shot off a rickety portable table in a breeze). I cannot get that kind of accuracy with a dirty suppressor.

Needing a maintenance kit for a precision can - no thanks. In a couple thousand more rounds, I'll send my 30P-1 to Thunderbeast to clean it up (for free). Other than that, I'll just keep on shooting it.

You have to be kidding. It would only be to get a repair that I would risk sending one of my suppressors off with some common carrier. You can insure replacement, but you cannot avoid the 11-month wait to get the stamp that enables you to actually get possession, if one gets lost by the carrier.

And even if TBAC was across the street from me, I would not want to have to take it in every 2000 rounds for cleaning -- not when I can do it myself in less than half an hour.

Anyway, my "precision can" kit did not cost me much, and does not have to go with me when I go to shoot. I enjoy using it every 100 rounds or so. As I said, I have one can that cannot be taken apart. I will absolutely never buy another one, regardless of how accurate fan-boys claim them to be.

 

[651]

Well..... I'm waiting on 3 Banish suppressors. I hope I made the right decision. I should be getting my first one anytime.

 

[Tangent]

I finding it amusing that you would worry that disassembling and re-assembling precision-machined parts might hurt the accuracy of my Banish, but you have no concern about the buildup of large amounts of carbon constricting your baffle holes. My experience with crowns, where even tiny imperfections in the outer portion, well away from the bore exit hole, can wreak havoc on accuracy tells me that carbon buildup on baffles is likely to have a significant effect on accuracy.

Well, in any case, my sample targets speak for themselves. The two groups shot with the clean suppressor measured .421" and .435" (shot off a rickety portable table in a breeze). I cannot get that kind of accuracy with a dirty suppressor.



You have to be kidding. It would only be to get a repair that I would risk sending one of my suppressors off with some common carrier. You can insure replacement, but you cannot avoid the 11-month wait to get the stamp that enables you to actually get possession, if one gets lost by the carrier.

And even if TBAC was across the street from me, I would not want to have to take it in every 2000 rounds for cleaning -- not when I can do it myself in less than half an hour.

Anyway, my "precision can" kit did not cost me much, and does not have to go with me when I go to shoot. I enjoy using it every 100 rounds or so. As I said, I have one can that cannot be taken apart. I will absolutely never buy another one, regardless of how accurate fan-boys claim them to be.

LOL, my experience is different than yours, so it can only be explained away that I'm a supporter?
Below is the last 5 shot group fired before season.
Range was 425 yards, shot 30 minutes before sunrise, 20 degrees F, prone on concrete, all 5 shots within 30 seconds, using factory ammo.
Group is 0.57 MOA. Not my best group, but a dirty can was not the problem there.

 

[KY_Windage]

Well..... I'm waiting on 3 Banish suppressors. I hope I made the right decision. I should be getting my first one anytime.

Wow. Which three, if you don't mind saying. The ONLY people I know with Banish/Varminter suppressors (which is only a few people) who think they might not have made the "right decision" are guys who bought a Banish 223. They wish they had just got the Banish 30, because that works well for .20/.22 caliber. But getting both is better if you can afford it.

 

[KY_Windage]

Below is the last 5 shot group fired before season.
Range was 425 yards, shot 30 minutes before sunrise, 20 degrees F, prone on concrete, all 5 shots within 30 seconds, using factory ammo.
Group is 0.57 MOA. Not my best group, but a dirty can was not the problem there.

Those look like 6.5 or 7mm holes.

It is extremely good shooting. In my many years of watching thousands of people shoot various rifles on targets I can recall only a couple that could consistently shoot that well with factory ammo, suppressed or not.

I'd have to say you are very fortunate!

 

[651]

Varminter 4.0 / 22 / and just ordered in September the Banish 30. I wish I would have waited on the last one and ordered their current special.

 

[cynjon]

Varminter 4.0 / 22 / and just ordered in September the Banish 30. I wish I would have waited on the last one and ordered their current special.

I wish I'd gotten in on the current deal from CS as well...free titanium rimfire can would be a nice addition to the lineup for the price of a tax stamp. Looking at the Banish 45 as my next can though, so I can use it on my 9mm carbines as well as handguns.

 

[KY_Windage]

Shot these today, all 5-shot groups at 100 yds, .204 Rem. 700. Gotta love a clean suppressor.

 

[Tgunz64]

Well I got the ball rolling towards buying my first suppressor. Paid for the trust and got that emailed over. I'll notorize it and stuff when I'm ready to buy my can. Also sent in my 22-250 yesterday to get barrel threading. This will be the gun the can will be on most often. Now gotta save $$ and decide on a can. Also I came across a mounting system called the Hellfire system. Any thoughts on that? Looks kind of interesting. And your guys choice of mirage covers?

 

[KY_Windage]

My choice of cover is NONE. It is real easy to shoot "too much" (yeah, I know) with a suppressor on. Shooting a hot barrel is the best way to decrease barrel life I know of. That mirage lets me know I need to slow down, and if just have to shoot, I can pretty easily shoot through it.

I do, however, keep a leather glove handy in case I want to remove a hot suppressor.