Ballistic Reticles... What is your favorite and why?

[NJS]

I am wanting to purchase a scope for long range big game hunting and am wondering what ballistic reticle is the most popular...? Burris Ballistic Plex, Zeiss Rapid Z, Swarovaki TDS Leupold B&C or something else.... Let me hear your opinions and why you feel that way... NJS

 

[AJ Peacock]

I like the Nightforce NP-R1 because I use holdover. It is 1 moa graduations. It has 10 graduations above the crosshair and 30 below it. I set the top graduation at 100yds and that makes my crosshair dead on at 710yds or so (depends on altitude) with my 338 Allen Mag, the bottom mark is around 1650yds. I can pretty quickly engage any target out to 1500yds without touching anything but maybe the windage dial.

I do the same thing with my 338 Edge, but the crosshair is 535yds and the bottom graduation is around 1300yds. Again, I can quickly engage any target out to 1200yds pretty easily with it.

AJ

 

[nddodd]

I like the Nightforce NP-R1 because I use holdover. It is 1 moa graduations. It has 10 graduations above the crosshair and 30 below it. I set the top graduation at 100yds and that makes my crosshair dead on at 710yds or so (depends on altitude) with my 338 Allen Mag, the bottom mark is around 1650yds. I can pretty quickly engage any target out to 1500yds without touching anything but maybe the windage dial.

I do the same thing with my 338 Edge, but the crosshair is 535yds and the bottom graduation is around 1300yds. Again, I can quickly engage any target out to 1200yds pretty easily with it.

AJ

I will have to 2nd AJ on that.

Nathan.

 

[Topshot]

While waiting for my rifle and NF scope combo, I had to make do with my .338WM and Burris 3-9x40 Ballistic Plex reticle.

Now my scope could handle the recoil OK and never moved, but as I did not think that the turret adjustments would handle a lot of work. This is what I did.

I sighted my rifle in at 220 yards then Bar 1 = 280yds, Bar 2 = 280yds, Bar 3 = 480yds and top of post = 580yds.

I then made up a corrected drop chart for a single, 10 MOA alteration to my scope turret.
My new cross hair zero started about where my top of post left off at 570yds.
So Bar 1 = 600yds, Bar 2 = 680yds, Bar 3 = 760yds and top of post = 840yds.

So with one simple turret adjustment of 10 MOA by the dial, I had a drop chart that works out to 840yds with the basic Burris Ballistic Plex cross bars.

 

[Mikecr]

The holdover scheme described for an NP-R1 is really more complicated than simply dialing in your MOA.

The NP-R1 has 30 TOTAL graduations(not 10 above and 30 below). But I find it hard to believe anyone would try finding and fixing on one of these lines, while aiming and minding level.
I couldn't do it...

Let's run through it another way with the example given. I setup software drop to simulate 10moa from 100yds to 710yds. I just through in .900BC@3270fps
100yds = -10moa
710yds = 0moa
Then
200yds = -9moa
285yds = -8moa
345yds = -7moa
405yds = -6moa
460yds = -5moa
515yds = -4moa
565yds = -3moa
615yds = -2moa
755yds = -1moa

Now, assuming you're using a laser rangefinder, and a field dropchart, what are you gonna do with a target ranging at 485? You gonna count up to 4th or 5th lines, and with a fix on it move to the target, then holdoff some amount in elevation and wind(without getting mixed up)?

What you should be lookin at for 485 is the crosshair on target or 2" into a 5mph wind, and your scopelevel.
This, after dialing 22clks per your field drop chart.

My vote goes to Nightforce's CH1 reticle, and standard 1/4moa turret clicks.

 

[guns_and_labs]

A strong vote for the Holland ART reticle. MOA below, mildot above (easier to range), wind hold offs, and still not too cluttered (IMHO). When used with an MOA turret to fine tune the hold, it is as quick as you can pull the trigger (well, almost).

 

[BountyHunter]

Holland ART and the Swarovski/Kahles TDS using exbal

The ART for the easily marked MOA markings and the TDS for the absolute clearest/brightest glass (way over leup or NF) and multipoint aiming.

It is quite easy to use exbal and figure exact drops for any ballistic or multi aim point reticle using exbals reticle tool and at any power, not just the max power.

2-4 simple tapes on the side of the stock for each power and you can go waaay out without hold over or clicking.

BH

 

[fireroad]

I have always been a fine duplex guy as Ihunt in low light situations. I rently pickedup a Mark 4 mildot and really like that,althought some what thick. The TMR recticle seems like it's the best solution for me and I may upgrade in the near future.

A friend of mine absolutley swears by the Leupold Varmint Hunter as it's esay to use and not very cluttered. Nightforce has some simply amazing recticles, but they are out of my fiscal and weight budget.

 

[AJ Peacock]

The holdover scheme described for an NP-R1 is really more complicated than simply dialing in your MOA.

The NP-R1 has 30 TOTAL graduations(not 10 above and 30 below). But I find it hard to believe anyone would try finding and fixing on one of these lines, while aiming and minding level.
I couldn't do it...

...

NP-R1 has 10 above and 30 below for the 3.5x15 and 10 above and 20 below for the 5.5x22

Just fyi. I have no problem shooting any of the lines and keeping things level, why would it be any harder to hold a scope level and using a hash mark that was not the crosshairs?

AJ

 

[AJ Peacock]

...

Let's run through it another way with the example given. I setup software drop to simulate 10moa from 100yds to 710yds. I just through in .900BC@3270fps
100yds = -10moa
710yds = 0moa
Then
200yds = -9moa
285yds = -8moa
345yds = -7moa
405yds = -6moa
460yds = -5moa
515yds = -4moa
565yds = -3moa
615yds = -2moa
755yds = -1moa

Now, assuming you're using a laser rangefinder, and a field dropchart, what are you gonna do with a target ranging at 485? You gonna count up to 4th or 5th lines, and with a fix on it move to the target, then holdoff some amount in elevation and wind(without getting mixed up)?

What you should be lookin at for 485 is the crosshair on target or 2" into a 5mph wind, and your scopelevel.
This, after dialing 22clks per your field drop chart.

My vote goes to Nightforce's CH1 reticle, and standard 1/4moa turret clicks.

485 means the hold is a split between the 4th and 5th line in your example. At 485yds, the lines are only 5" apart on an Elk's vitals (about the size of their heart). It's actually pretty easy if you practice it.

I also dial my windage if it's much more than the width of a hashmark (1moa or 2moa, depending on which hashmark you are using).

If you are intent on clicking, then you need nothing more than a simple crosshair. Ballistic reticles would just be redundant.

AJ

 

[Mikecr]

If you are intent on clicking, then you need nothing more than a simple crosshair. Ballistic reticles would just be redundant.AJ

That's my point.
You already have to spot & range.. You have to look up the MOA needed..
Seems easiest to just dial it in & be done with it. Really, a no-brainer action as quick as a twist of the knob.
Then you get behind your scope, get your focus, shoulder, level, timing,, and the purest squeeze of the trigger. Like injecting lead with a hypodermic needle..
That's plenty enough challenge.

Saving so much as dialing in that zero??
Makes no sense at all

 

[AJ Peacock]

That's my point.
You already have to spot & range.. You have to look up the MOA needed..
Seems easiest to just dial it in & be done with it. Really, a no-brainer action as quick as a twist of the knob.
Then you get behind your scope, get your focus, shoulder, level, timing,, and the purest squeeze of the trigger. Like injecting lead with a hypodermic needle..
That's plenty enough challenge.

Saving so much as dialing in that zero??
Makes no sense at all

To each his own. I'll take the ballistic reticle and have the option to do either.

In a no wind situation, I can hit a deers vitals from muzzle to past 1000yds without doing anything but range and shoot. If you want to twist your dials, have at it.

AJ

 

[Pdvdh]

Mikecr,

Except to AJ, I and others that have posted on the forum in the past. I hold-over and hold-under also with no problems to date. Quicker than dialing for me, and sufficient out to about 900 yds so far. I might start dialing at about 900 on out and am beginning to consider that option now. I think there is no right or wrong, better or worse - other than on an individual basis. What each individual finds most efficient for their particular purpose is best for that individual. Both systems will get the job done.

My ballistic software will tell me how many moa, inches per hundred yards, or mils high or low, for the distance ranged. At that point, depending on the scope and the units of hash marks I'm using, it's easy to hold over or under the proper number of hashes. I never have to worry about the right or wrong number of clicks, or returning the scope back to zero, or worry about the accuracy of the clicks through the vertical range.

 

[sscoyote]

I've seen some pretty amazing things accomplished with ballistic reticles. Ernie (XPhunter) ran 10 in a row on 8" silhouettes between 585 and 685 using the Ball. Plex reticle in a 3-12x EER Burris on top of a custom 6.5-284 Win. XP-100 at the '04 ITRC in Gillette, WY.

My favorite for the ranges that i typically shoot--to 600 yds. with custom specialty pistols are the Rapid-Z's or Rapid Reticles due to their excellent system of windage reference.

I alos like Holland's Ultimate Mil-Reticle. The 1st shot out of the 6.5-20x Leup. Mk4 FFP at a game animal with that reticle was a 435-yd. coyote from my 6.5 WSM XP-100.

I'd also love to test a Horus some day.

The secret to applying ballistic or rangefinding reticles for downrange zeroing is to calibrate it properly and then establish an accurate interpolation system for the in-between stadia points.