Bad ADG brass ?

I'd really suggest a shoulder and bullet comperator set. They have 420, 400, 375 and 350 shoulder gauges that cover basically every cartridge, and the set usually comes with 338, 30, 7mm, 6.5mm, 6mm and 22 cal inserts for checking base to give. Perhaps you already have these. Then you'd just need the shoulder gauges. These two components are a must for any aspiring precision hand loader.
 
I'd really suggest a shoulder and bullet comperator set. They have 420, 400, 375 and 350 shoulder gauges that cover basically every cartridge, and the set usually comes with 338, 30, 7mm, 6.5mm, 6mm and 22 cal inserts for checking base to give. Perhaps you already have these. Then you'd just need the shoulder gauges. These two components are a must for any aspiring precision hand loader.
I have the bullet comparator I just need to find shoulder gauges.
Thanks , I'm always learning something new in this game !!
 
Good:

Better:

Best:


The Hornady kit can be had for $50 from Amazon.
 
Good:

Better:

Best:


The Hornady kit can be had for $50 from Amazon.
That's awesome I appreciate that!!
So this is the hornady kit ?
 

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Bumping your shoulder back .002" is an arbitrary figure. Your brass may not need to be bumped at all. I have a custom built 30 Nosler using ADG brass. After 3 firings the shoulder still doesn't need to be bumped. The kits mentioned above will only tell you the size of your brass- base to shoulder. What you need to know is the size of your brass in relationship to your chamber. You can do this without any of those gadgets. You just need to remove your firing pin and your plunger ejector. If the bolt will close without resistance on a fired case you don't bump the shoulder. If you have resistance, you adjust your size die a little at a time until the bolt closes easily.
You can also determine where to seat your bullets in relationship to the lands using the stripped bolt. It is far more accurate than any of the tools sold to measure this.
 
The mark on the new brass is a red flag, you should contact ADG on this. With a max length chamber and min spec brass you could have up .013 case growth before needing to push shoulders back. If you are setting your sizing die to contact the shell holder you will be pushing the shoulder back to minimum spec as stated above.
 
Buy yourself a neck die and only use it to get necks round and true on NEW brass and stop FL sizing new brass. You will thank me later.
I always buy Redding 3 die sets for this very reason, also, don't set your die up until you have 3 firings on the brass and use a comparator to get the .002" bump.

Cheers.
 
What you need to know is the size of your brass in relationship to your chamber. You can do this without any of those gadgets. You just need to remove your firing pin and your plunger ejector. If the bolt will close without resistance on a fired case you don't bump the shoulder. If you have resistance, you adjust your size die a little at a time until the bolt closes easily.
I don't disagree with any of this. It's actually how I normally run my brass - neck size until resistance on closing.

But I also measure the shoulders throughout this time. It puts a hard number on the brass measurement, there's no reason to not other than it takes a little bit of time to measure a few cases each loading.

I also measure the .200" line on cases during forming - what I've found is there's a remarkable number of cases that never need FL sizing to continue fitting into chambers if you don't stomp the heck out of the pressure curve with them. It's almost like what's old is new again with neck sizing, and that the FL sizing that guys like Erik Cortina push are contingent on there being a good match between die and chamber. Almost ;) Maybe that's why Harrell's has so many variants of 6 Dasher FL dies in stock...
 
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