D
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I can't praise the Assassin Muzzle Brake by @J E Custom enough. This truly is a custom muzzle brake. Tuned to my gun with my expected load.
Previously I had purchased a Badger Ordinance brake for the DTA, It worked, it was loud, it has a fairly large ground blast. It did tame the rifle "enough" for my very hot 300 WM loads, I know, I've ratted on the 300 WM but it is just until I rechamber to 300 RUM.
Back to the Assassin Muzzle Brake. @J E Custom and I had multiple conversations on the phone. Wonderful to talk with. We talked about the rifle now vs after I rechamber. The decision was to go with a 5 port slab. Usually @J E Custom 's customers send the rifle so it can be timed. Because I have a lathe we agreed that I could time it. @J E Custom made a brake holding mandrel for timing that is a very clever tool. I am keeping it and going to copy it for other brake threads. It was made from old barrel material. So keep your old barrels for making tooling and "stuff".
I had a project in the lathe that got for stalled months because of life issues. Finally finished that project. Chucked up the mandrel and gave it a test run with no cutting. Ran very true in my chuck. Since this is not a blended brake no worries about that part of the brake timing process.
I mounted the brake on the rifle and it was slightly over 90° short of timing. That turns out to be about .010 of material on 24 threads per inch. (1/.024)*.25=10.416666667 as in .010. I sure hope I have the formula correct, however, it was .010 of material. I only needed this to know how careful to be facing the brake. It was very careful.
I can be very nit picking when I am doing my loading or machining...
My first pass just took off the black epoxy coating. Very nicely done to match the rifle. This resulted in dead on 90° out of time. Perfect. Carefully took off about .005. Great slightly less than half way. Repeat until almost there. Then just making "spring back" cuts. Not moving anything just putting it back on the mandrel and making another pass.
Now for the nit picking part. Background. All my scopes have an anti-cant bubble level. This level is trued 90° to the reticle using a plumb line. Then the scope is set true to the picatinny rail. Best I can do for scope leveling.
For timing the brake, I leveled the rifle according to the scope level then added multiple other levels to make sure I had good reference. When I trial fit the brake I used a level on top of the slab. It worked as I wanted it to... Professionals may do it some other way...
One last thing. I buffed the beautiful gloss black epoxy finish with 320 grit to make it match the rifles more aggressive look.
Previously I had purchased a Badger Ordinance brake for the DTA, It worked, it was loud, it has a fairly large ground blast. It did tame the rifle "enough" for my very hot 300 WM loads, I know, I've ratted on the 300 WM but it is just until I rechamber to 300 RUM.
Back to the Assassin Muzzle Brake. @J E Custom and I had multiple conversations on the phone. Wonderful to talk with. We talked about the rifle now vs after I rechamber. The decision was to go with a 5 port slab. Usually @J E Custom 's customers send the rifle so it can be timed. Because I have a lathe we agreed that I could time it. @J E Custom made a brake holding mandrel for timing that is a very clever tool. I am keeping it and going to copy it for other brake threads. It was made from old barrel material. So keep your old barrels for making tooling and "stuff".
I had a project in the lathe that got for stalled months because of life issues. Finally finished that project. Chucked up the mandrel and gave it a test run with no cutting. Ran very true in my chuck. Since this is not a blended brake no worries about that part of the brake timing process.
I mounted the brake on the rifle and it was slightly over 90° short of timing. That turns out to be about .010 of material on 24 threads per inch. (1/.024)*.25=10.416666667 as in .010. I sure hope I have the formula correct, however, it was .010 of material. I only needed this to know how careful to be facing the brake. It was very careful.
I can be very nit picking when I am doing my loading or machining...
My first pass just took off the black epoxy coating. Very nicely done to match the rifle. This resulted in dead on 90° out of time. Perfect. Carefully took off about .005. Great slightly less than half way. Repeat until almost there. Then just making "spring back" cuts. Not moving anything just putting it back on the mandrel and making another pass.
Now for the nit picking part. Background. All my scopes have an anti-cant bubble level. This level is trued 90° to the reticle using a plumb line. Then the scope is set true to the picatinny rail. Best I can do for scope leveling.
For timing the brake, I leveled the rifle according to the scope level then added multiple other levels to make sure I had good reference. When I trial fit the brake I used a level on top of the slab. It worked as I wanted it to... Professionals may do it some other way...
One last thing. I buffed the beautiful gloss black epoxy finish with 320 grit to make it match the rifles more aggressive look.
) I bet it shoots as good as it looks !!!
