AR 15 reload pressure signs?

[elk wallow]

So I've never reloaded for my AR (223) and would like to start. I've loaded for my bolt action rifles for years. Do you look for the same pressure signs or do you look for different signs? Can you load as "hot" for an AR as you can a bolt gun? I'm wanting to load some hunting rounds for coyotes, wolves and what not. Any info is appreciated.

Kevin

 

[Kansaswoodguy]

Primers are the same, on AR's you will see shiny spots on the brass base or even tearing the rim off the base if your getting over pressure.

 

[elk wallow]

Thanks Kansas!

 

[elk wallow]

So I should be able to refer to any reloading manual and be safe correct?

 

[CaptnC]

I'm fairly new my self...a bit over a year. I reload 6.5 Grendel, 7.62x30 and 300 BlackOut.

Most guys who have reloaded for AR's have told me basically the same thing. If you see slight signs of pressure on your cases, you most likely well past the 55,000 max pressure limit of the AR platform.

Many, myself included, suggest you load to chronograph velocities and don't exceed the book maximum velocities. The AR platform can't handle the 60,000 pressures a bolt gun is normally shot at.

 

[RT2506]

As has been said you can't load to bolt rifle loads safely for ARs. There is PLENTY of AR load data out there and it pays you to use it. Also use a primer that has a harder cup like. I have not had any issue with CCI 400 but some have, CCI 450, CCI41, CCI- BR4, Rem 7 1/2, Winchester SR and the ONLY Federal to use is the Fed. AR Match primer. This is to safeguard against a slam fire because of the free floating firing pin in the ARs. If you fire a round and it loads another round from the magazine eject that round and look at the primer. It will have a slight indent made my the firing pin on it. With primers with softer/thinner cups it can go BANG. Many years ago I experienced this with an M1 Garand using Fed. 210M primers before I learned better. Like has been said with ARs when you start to see flat primers or ejector swipes on the case rim you are already way over pressure.

 

[elk wallow]

Thanks guys. Great info.

 

[tim_w]

You get the same types of case pressure signs. The ejector us worse as the case is quickly ejected and actually swipes the brass off.when its bad enough. As for rims getting riped off etc. Usually that is a timing issues from the extra gas but can happen with in pressure rounds as well if the gas system is not properly tuned for the load. Most ARs are not in ideal tune for the loads they shoot.

Find the load you want to shoot then you can tune the gas system around it with a few changes.

Typically you can not run quite as high pressure as you can in custom bolt guns as you tend to have to hold looser tolerances for cycling. You can get away with more if you are slow firing. You also gave to account for some vel loss from the gasses used to run the cycling system