Annealing

ShootnMathews

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Tried my hand at annealing this evening. I don't know if pictures alone can show if it's done right but here's a pic. I tried to heat them to the point that they turned blue looking but before they turned any red. This is my first time. I had a couple that just began to turn pink on the neck before I dumped them. The rest only got blue. Anyways, any thoughts?
 

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They all look great to me. Blue to hitting a slight pink toward the case mouth is perfect. Those slight differences in final color will not hurt anything.

IMO there is no need for that Tempilaq. I have used it and it makes a mess. (Want to buy some. LOL). Temps on every case do not have to be exact. It will not ruin the case or make a difference in neck tension. Just don't space it and get it to glowing red or something
 
I was under the impression it needs to be hotter than 650

"To properly anneal brass, the temperature needs to be at 650 degrees F. for several minutes--BUT this will transfer too-much heat to the lower case in that time. So we need more heat for a shorter time. We need to raise the neck temp to about 750 degrees F. only for a few seconds to anneal."

A red glow is about 1050F. Things happen very rapidly in that temp range

There are a dozens of threads and hundreds of Youtube videos on annealing. Whatever you do make sure you do it with the same temperature and duration of flame or you could be making it worse as far as consistency of your brass is concerned.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/annealing-fast-and-hot-or-slow-and-warm.3889281/

Annealing question | Shooters' Forum

Quick cool after annealing... or not? | Shooters' Forum
 
I FL sized several of the cases I annealed and they were noticeably easier, took less pressure to size than before. They were on about 5 firings without annealing. I was starting to get some shots that strayed and I figure it's from work hardened brass and uneven sizing. I'll find out tomorrow when I shoot a few.

Thanks for the help.
 
When I anneal, I find it helps to count in my head as soon as the flame point touches the middle of the neck. My magic number is to the count of 12. It helps me to keep the shoulders annealed to the same point on each case.
 
My brass looks very similar when I anneal. My faint blue line is 1/8" to 1/4" from the shoulder body junction. I found it helps with vertical stringing and also keeps my SD down.

Reuben
 
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