Annealing machine vs sending brass off to be done

[The Oregonian]

I shoot maybe 500 rounds per year...custom 30-06 that is more accurate than I am.

I am on the first list for the AMP machine at $1k and trying to determine if it makes sense to buy me or just send the brass off after every couple of firings. Cost seems to be .20 per round and I have about 300-400 pieces of brass, so maybe $60 to $80 per year to do brass once.

Any advice from folks out there? It would seem to take 10 yrs to break even, but having it myself I could do after every firing with minimal time commitment.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Barrelnut]

I have been doing this for thousands of rounds. It works, it is easy, it will not ruin your brass. Slight differences in time/temp do not affect the final anneal. Folks who say it does are trying to sell you a thousand dollar annealing machine or justify the fact that they were gullible enough to buy one.

[ame="www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c"]http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c[/ame]

 

[MudRunner2005]

Giraud makes some nice machines. They're high-dollar, but appear to be top-tier quality. Made in Texas, I believe. They even have a new flame-less annealing machine out for using inside of an enclosed area, like inside your house or a closed-in garage. Watched the video about it on their site, looked pretty cool.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I don't quite get the 5 and anneal thing. I've found that I can get at least 10 reloads before I have any neck issues at all and sometimes more. I loaded some Nosler 300 WM cases 15 times with no issue other than they started to get the bulge above the base.... They went in the scrap can after that. BTW, I don't 'weenie' load anything, I asscribe to the Berger loading regimen.

The only thing I get neck issues with is straightwall 44 mag cases that I load the hell outta with Lil Gun. I get 2 times around and that's it.

Flameless (induction) annealing is actually easy and relatively inexpensive. Basically a power supply, heating tip (flexible nichrome wire) and a timer.

 

[royinidaho]

I do it the way barrelnut does it except on about the same frequency as sidecarflip or even more shots.

Also I darken the room enough to see the neck, where I concentrate the heat, begin to turn pink then dump the case in the water.

Have had no problem whatever.

Can't see spending a ton of money for something that can be done so simply and consistently.

A less than $30 infra red thermometer will help where confidence is lacking.

 

[rcoody]

Giraud makes some nice machines. They're high-dollar, but appear to be top-tier quality. Made in Texas, I believe. They even have a new flame-less annealing machine out for using inside of an enclosed area, like inside your house or a closed-in garage. Watched the video about it on their site, looked pretty cool.

the Giraud just makes it so easy and fast. I though the price was very reasonable.


[ame]https://youtu.be/tCWni2nNNeE[/ame]

 

[SidecarFlip]

My issue with the Giraud is, the price. The torch and drill method works fine for small runs. I have a Bench Source rotary annealer that I hardly ever use. It's nothing more than a timing device (like the Giraud) that keeps the case in the annealing flame for a pre-set amount of time.

I still don't see the need. After 5 or so firings (unless it's 50 BMG or a wildcat or 338 brass which is expensive... just toss it.

I keep a 5 gallon bucket under the bench for tossed cases and when it's full (takes a year or 2, I take them (and spent primers to the scrap yard and cash them in. Brass still pays pretty good.........

I only anneal my 338 Lapua cases and my wildcats and only after at least 5 reloads and only if the necks are brittle (as tested using the vice grip method).

IMO, one excellent way to not workharden a neck is remove the expander ball from your die stem (i never run an expander ball, they are relegated to the die box).

When you fire a case in a rifle, the expanding gases expand the neck to contact the chamber anyway. When the case contracts, it's still oversize in the neck so when you size it, there is no need for an expander ball. The neck size part of the die (or appropriate bushing) will resize the neck to provide the correct dimension to grip the bullet. Why open the neck to close it?? Makes no sense.

Brass workhardens and becomes brittle from repeated working in a size die. removal of the expander ball, basically halves the workhardening process, allowing more reloads before the necks get brittle.

Of course that don't apply to a straight wall cartridge where you have to size the case and flare the mouth to accept a pill.

Like I said, I toss 'em. Brass is the least expensive part of the reloading equation far as I'm concerned.

 

[Jaxdialation]

I send my stuff out to be annealed after the first two firings. The cost (excluding shipping) is .10/case and that includes decapping and cleaning with steel media. If I shot 1000 rounds/year and sent them all out the $100 spend wouldn't be sufficient for me to DIY.

PM me if you want the info on the guy I use. He is well known on a certain sniper forum. Turn around is 24-72 hours.

I shoot maybe 500 rounds per year...custom 30-06 that is more accurate than I am.

I am on the first list for the AMP machine at $1k and trying to determine if it makes sense to buy me or just send the brass off after every couple of firings. Cost seems to be .20 per round and I have about 300-400 pieces of brass, so maybe $60 to $80 per year to do brass once.

Any advice from folks out there? It would seem to take 10 yrs to break even, but having it myself I could do after every firing with minimal time commitment.

Thanks in advance.

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

I also have a Girauld annealer and have no regrets. I prairie dog shoot so my volumes are pretty high. Annealing does tend to help make neck tension more consistent.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I do it the way barrelnut does it except on about the same frequency as sidecarflip or even more shots.

Also I darken the room enough to see the neck, where I concentrate the heat, begin to turn pink then dump the case in the water.

Have had no problem whatever.

Can't see spending a ton of money for something that can be done so simply and consistently.

A less than $30 infra red thermometer will help where confidence is lacking.

A LOT less at Harbor Fright right now. Buy 45 bucks of other stuff and get an IR thermometer for 5 bucks. I have one btw. Works good.

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

Everyone seems to worry too much about the temperature. The reality is with torches there really isn't a very good way to know how high you hit. Yes, you could use the temp paint, but you have to use it on the inside the case and then cut it to verify. I've pretty much resigned myself to turning down the lights and heating until the neck just shows a hint of red.

 

[tbrice23]

I used to anneal with a socket and drill with a propane torch and metronome but since I anneal every firing I made one. I found a thread on AR15.com and did a search DIY annealing machine, its a detailed article with ordering info also. Cost me $90 to $100 and 2 to 3 hours total to plan ,layout and build.
I'm very satisfied, all I have to do is keep some cases in the hopper and keep an eye on the overall operation. A lot faster and easier than my old method.

 

[rootie3]

Oregonian.... I agree with Jax on this one. If you're gonna spend $80 a year for annealing that is going to give you app. 12 years of this service to reach $1,000 for the purchase of a diy machine... how old are you, anyway

 

[The Oregonian]

Oregonian.... I agree with Jax on this one. If you're gonna spend $80 a year for annealing that is going to give you app. 12 years of this service to reach $1,000 for the purchase of a diy machine... how old are you, anyway

I am leaning heavily in that direction. I won't even spend $80/yr at $.10/per. If my volumes go way up then maybe I buy a machine, but for now sending it off is the way to go.

Thx for the input.