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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealeez Aluminum Wheels
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<blockquote data-quote="BallisticExpansion" data-source="post: 2347496" data-attributes="member: 116552"><p>That is a great tip Bob. Thank you! I did run into heat transfer issues on the 1st test last night. I knew it would be inevitable, but happened faster than I realized. 20min of continuous operation and the top wheel had slightly melted the gear shaft behind it and bonded to it a little haha. I was running 6.5CM on the large wheels. Which is putting the flame quite close to the wheel. It's definitely an improvement</p><p></p><p>I've been brainstorming a few solutions since last night. Here are a few. Anyone feel free to share thoughts on them. </p><p></p><p>Brass washer or nut behind the wheel to act as a barrier between the aluminum wheel and plastic gear shaft. Brass has ~half the thermal conductivity of aluminum.I am going to try this first since it is cheap on time and material.</p><p></p><p>Metal gears for the machine. Slightly cost prohibitive but more concerning is the labor involved on the customer side to install them</p><p></p><p>Ditching the solid aluminum idea. Brass or Titanium solids. Cons are cost and weight of the wheel being too much for the motor. </p><p></p><p>One idea I'm still researching is using aluminum tubing. Cut to desired thickness and fill with an epoxy/resin that is machinable and dissipates heat well. I'm not sure if this is cost efficient or if such a material exists readily on the consumer market. I really like this idea in concept. </p><p></p><p>Some good news! The copper RTV did excellent with the heat. It's definitely the way to go and I would even recommend it for the factory wheels. Simply put a pea size drop on a sponge and apply to the wheel as needed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BallisticExpansion, post: 2347496, member: 116552"] That is a great tip Bob. Thank you! I did run into heat transfer issues on the 1st test last night. I knew it would be inevitable, but happened faster than I realized. 20min of continuous operation and the top wheel had slightly melted the gear shaft behind it and bonded to it a little haha. I was running 6.5CM on the large wheels. Which is putting the flame quite close to the wheel. It's definitely an improvement I've been brainstorming a few solutions since last night. Here are a few. Anyone feel free to share thoughts on them. Brass washer or nut behind the wheel to act as a barrier between the aluminum wheel and plastic gear shaft. Brass has ~half the thermal conductivity of aluminum.I am going to try this first since it is cheap on time and material. Metal gears for the machine. Slightly cost prohibitive but more concerning is the labor involved on the customer side to install them Ditching the solid aluminum idea. Brass or Titanium solids. Cons are cost and weight of the wheel being too much for the motor. One idea I'm still researching is using aluminum tubing. Cut to desired thickness and fill with an epoxy/resin that is machinable and dissipates heat well. I'm not sure if this is cost efficient or if such a material exists readily on the consumer market. I really like this idea in concept. Some good news! The copper RTV did excellent with the heat. It's definitely the way to go and I would even recommend it for the factory wheels. Simply put a pea size drop on a sponge and apply to the wheel as needed. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealeez Aluminum Wheels
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