AMP Annealer Setting for 300 RUM

Randy Tidwell

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Feb 14, 2019
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Long Beach, CA
Hey Guys,

Anyone have experience annealing ADG 300 RUM brass with an AMP?

They don't list a setting with ADG brass.

The chart shows 83-85 with Nosler and Norma, 54-55 with Barnes, Rem, and Federal. That's a healthy difference.

I really don't want to guess. I could upgrade the software to the Aztec, the idea of destroying 5 good cases is not very appealing.

Any input would be helpful.

Thanks, Randy
 

QuietTexan

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Nov 16, 2020
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Fort Worth, Texas
I wish brass sellers would read this and sell us 52 and 104 cases, not 50 and 100. I'd pay the incremental increase for a few extra cases. Nuking one in an annealer, making a dummy round, etc, there's always a use for an extra couple cases while still leaving me an even 50 or 100.

Maybe the joke is on me because I buy an extra pack of 50 or 100 and discard some.
 

Coyote Shadow Tracker

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We I may be partial, but using an AMP and getting the brass at the correct annealing temp is well worth loosing one piece of brass. Then you can record the numbers from that test and don't have to sacrifice another piece of brass for that particular Brass/caliber.
All I hear on most posts is that the AMP has to sacrifice a piece of brass and hear shooters complaining about "ONE PIECE OF BRASS".
We NEVER HEAR about how many pieces of brass that you loose when using "Propane Flame" to get a piece of brass that we "Think" is is the right temp for the brass that is being annealed. At least with the AMP there are years of testing and results that back up the AMP and the annealing process for ANY piece of brass that is tested in the AMP to be annealed.
I know that this machine was stated too be expensive, but in relationship to what? We spend thousands of $s on Actions, Custom Chambering & Barrels, Optics, Environmental Shooting Programs-Kestrel, Accessories. Then getting into the reloading how much do we spend on Scales. Presses, Dies, Trimmers Gauges/Instruments. Then we go to the components - Best Powder, Primers, Bullets and last not least BRASS.
We all want the best of everything to make sure that we can get the most out of our rifles to make sure that they preform shooting an Elk, Deer, Hog, Bear, Prairie Dog. Coyote at extreme ranges.
So ANNEALING BRASS is an important part in the equation. I just want to say when talking about the AMP and sacrificing one piece of brass to get the equation finished isn't it worth it????
I don't think I have ever seen a post where someone is complaining about wasting or sacrificing a piece brass with Propane Flame annealing. I have used flame annealing and wasted a lot of cases and never really knew weather it was the correct temp for annealing.
However I do know that when I use the AMP to anneal my cases that they are the correct temp at the correct location of the case.
I am not affiliated with AMP, but I can tell people that I have used different types of annealing and the easiest most accurate - that I can tell, is the AMP.
Would like to hear how many pieces of brass anyone sacrifices/wastes with flame annealing. Or if every piece of brass is the correct temp for annealing every time with every different brass case you flame anneal and you never loose a piece of brass and confident that they are annealed correctly.
 

Flintlock shooter

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Coyote Shadow Tracker I agree with everything that you said except ...."and don't have to sacrifice another piece of brass for that particular Brass/caliber." Different lot numbers from the same manufactures will usually require different annealing codes. That has been my experience.
 

Coyote Shadow Tracker

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Coyote Shadow Tracker I agree with everything that you said except ...."and don't have to sacrifice another piece of brass for that particular Brass/caliber." Different lot numbers from the same manufactures will usually require different annealing codes. That has been my experience.
You are correct, but I use Lapua and have had different lot #s for the same caliber and the code came up the same when I tested on the AMP. I also neck turn so all my brass is the same neck thickness. I also buy my brass in bulk so I have a large amount of the same lot#.
My real point is that no one ever states the brass that gets tossed from flame annealing and not getting the correct temp., but when talking about the AMP shooters bring up that you have to sacrifice a piece of brass and that this such a big loss.
 

QuietTexan

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I'm going to nuke one case per lot just to be sure, but I also try to buy enough same-lot brass to burn out the barrel when I get started on a project. There are still some places you can go to or call and get matched boxes, OTM just hooked me up recently.

I figure if I'm playing games with trying a bunch of different brass in one barrel then losing a couple cases to annealing isn't going to mess me up. I'd already be winnowing down to 10-20 shooting cases out of 25/50 case lots anyways because I don't want to send 500 rounds down the barrel trying to get several types of brass fully stabilized. My goal would be to have 20 good cases in however many brands I'm trying.

All depends on what you're going for. Finding the absolute best accuracy and swapping components, going for the most consistency for high round count, or wherever in the middle you want to be.
 

Pointman

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Aug 12, 2017
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154
I wish brass sellers would read this and sell us 52 and 104 cases, not 50 and 100. I'd pay the incremental increase for a few extra cases. Nuking one in an annealer, making a dummy round, etc, there's always a use for an extra couple cases while still leaving me an even 50 or 100.

Maybe the joke is on me because I buy an extra pack of 50 or 100 and discard some.
Interestingly, I just helped my Brother-in-Law hand load some ammo for his 7mm-08. He only used factory ammo in the past but I found some Lapua brass for him and as in the past, Lapua sent 101 cases.
 

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