Mc Fraser
Well-Known Member
Harsh but efficient.
Advice needed with marks on neck
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Harsh but efficient.
Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
Is this a brand new die and bushing? If so, remove the bushing and run a fired case in the die with out the bushing. If you have the same marks, it's the die. I've had this happen to me on a full length bushing die once and the die had a big burr at the neck/shoulder area and was sizing and scratching the neck without the bushing. The manufacturer replaced it and all was well.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I didn't mean to be,
but the bushing is not polished correctly and if not replaced it will continue to cause problems. he might be able to polish it and end up with a larger bushing but there would be no guaranty that It would be precision. So replacing it would be the prudent way to solve the problem.J E CUSTOM
bigedp51
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2010
- Messages
- 1,022
Below you can safely polish your bushings, they are the same Rockwell hardness as a resizing die. And the Redding FAQ below tells you it is safe to polish their dies. I would use a snug fitting bore cleaning mop and J&B Bore Paste or other polishes. This method is less abrasive than #400 or #600 wet/drysand paper and very safe.
Tech Line & Tips (FAQs)
Scratched Cases: Causes and Cures
https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/149-scratched-cases-causes-and-cures
Cleaning Your Dies
We are often asked, "How should I clean my dies?" The answer is to use the same procedures, with the same equipment and solvents, that you use to clean the bore of your rifle or handgun. Use the same diligence and effort as well, since the brushing and copper solvents will work well on any brass deposits that may have accumulated inside the die.
Another question that comes up is, "Can I do any internal polishing?"Heat treated steel bushings. The sizing diameters are hand polished with a surface hardness of Rc 60-62 to reduce sizing effort. Again, the answer is, "Yes, with care!" The best arrangement is to chuck the die in a lathe, after stripping it down and removing the internal parts. Use #400 or #600 wet/dry auto body paper wrapped around a small wooden dowel. Keep the paper wet with a thin petroleum product with the consistency of WD-40 or kerosene. Using this method, you will easily be able to remove any foreign material or brass build-up from the inside of the die.
Since our dies are heat-treated to approximately 62 Rockwell C, you can polish for a long time without changing the internal dimensions. Do not use ordinary sandpaper or anything coarser than #400, as you will scratch the interior of the die surface and void the lifetime warranty.
It is very important to give the dies a thorough cleaning, after the polishing operation. They should be thoroughly washed, flushed, and wiped several times. Again, just as when cleaning your rifle, check the dies for cleanliness with several wet patches and then lube and dry patch them.
In summary, the name of the game when it comes to avoiding scratched cases is cleanliness! A little attention paid to keeping your reloading area clean, and periodically cleaning your dies, will insure that they give you years of trouble-free service.
Below the bushing are the same hardness of the resizing dies above and approximately 62 Rockwell C and the bushing "CAN" be polished.
REDDING - STEEL NECK BUSHINGS
Heat treated steel bushings. The sizing diameters are hand polished with a surface hardness of 62 Rockwell C to reduce sizing effort.
Tech Line & Tips (FAQs)
Scratched Cases: Causes and Cures
https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/149-scratched-cases-causes-and-cures
Cleaning Your Dies
We are often asked, "How should I clean my dies?" The answer is to use the same procedures, with the same equipment and solvents, that you use to clean the bore of your rifle or handgun. Use the same diligence and effort as well, since the brushing and copper solvents will work well on any brass deposits that may have accumulated inside the die.
Another question that comes up is, "Can I do any internal polishing?"Heat treated steel bushings. The sizing diameters are hand polished with a surface hardness of Rc 60-62 to reduce sizing effort. Again, the answer is, "Yes, with care!" The best arrangement is to chuck the die in a lathe, after stripping it down and removing the internal parts. Use #400 or #600 wet/dry auto body paper wrapped around a small wooden dowel. Keep the paper wet with a thin petroleum product with the consistency of WD-40 or kerosene. Using this method, you will easily be able to remove any foreign material or brass build-up from the inside of the die.
Since our dies are heat-treated to approximately 62 Rockwell C, you can polish for a long time without changing the internal dimensions. Do not use ordinary sandpaper or anything coarser than #400, as you will scratch the interior of the die surface and void the lifetime warranty.
It is very important to give the dies a thorough cleaning, after the polishing operation. They should be thoroughly washed, flushed, and wiped several times. Again, just as when cleaning your rifle, check the dies for cleanliness with several wet patches and then lube and dry patch them.
In summary, the name of the game when it comes to avoiding scratched cases is cleanliness! A little attention paid to keeping your reloading area clean, and periodically cleaning your dies, will insure that they give you years of trouble-free service.
Below the bushing are the same hardness of the resizing dies above and approximately 62 Rockwell C and the bushing "CAN" be polished.
REDDING - STEEL NECK BUSHINGS
Heat treated steel bushings. The sizing diameters are hand polished with a surface hardness of 62 Rockwell C to reduce sizing effort.
Last edited:
CatShooter
Well-Known Member
I have run into this several times in the past...
The Redding bushings have an angle cut at the mouth to help feed a larger mouth from a fired case, into the smaller bore of the bushing. The feeding bevel has sharp corners, and they leave scratches, and/or a sharp ledge in the neck that does not iron out with the loaded bullet.
And, of course, because brass can scrape off at the sharp edge of the bevels, it can lead to neck scratches...
That sucked!!!!!
So I got a 20° plumb bob, and chucked it in a 1/4" hand drill.
I wrapped the nose with #2000 grit carborundum "Wet n Dry" paper, and oiled it.
This is what they looked like after they were polished...
And this is what the necks looked like when loaded - compare to the loaded neck above.
I will tell you this - you will NEVER enlarge the bore of these bushings, no matter what you do.... They are God awful hard.
The Redding bushings have an angle cut at the mouth to help feed a larger mouth from a fired case, into the smaller bore of the bushing. The feeding bevel has sharp corners, and they leave scratches, and/or a sharp ledge in the neck that does not iron out with the loaded bullet.
And, of course, because brass can scrape off at the sharp edge of the bevels, it can lead to neck scratches...
That sucked!!!!!
So I got a 20° plumb bob, and chucked it in a 1/4" hand drill.
I wrapped the nose with #2000 grit carborundum "Wet n Dry" paper, and oiled it.
This is what they looked like after they were polished...
And this is what the necks looked like when loaded - compare to the loaded neck above.
I will tell you this - you will NEVER enlarge the bore of these bushings, no matter what you do.... They are God awful hard.
CatShooter
Well-Known Member
In all seriousness CatShooter a very good posting above. Why buy another bushing when polishing will fix it.
P.S. You must be almost as smart, good looking and modest as I am.
ALMOST!!!
Especially the modest part
Be safe from those ickie germs!
