Adjusting a Rem700 trigger..... or go aftermarket

CjC73

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Have a Rem700 AAC and went to adjust trigger and couldn't get it anywhere near where I would like it (2.5-3#).

What do I need to do to get it there or should I just get an after market trigger to drop in? I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars (rifle is for my dad who only hunts with it, couple weeks a year only).

Just looking for a clean breaking trigger around 2.5-3#.

Thanks all!
 
I adjust those Rem factory triggers by driving the pins out, that hold it to the receiver, and throwing it in a coffee can with the others. I don't think the insurance company lawyers feel safe with any trigger that can be adjusted to less than 6-7#.
But those triggers ship from the factory adjusted to 3.5#...just read the descriptions on their website. I usually do the same thing, except I use a drawer instead of a coffee can.

If you can find a used Timney, that would be a solid bet for the amount of use the rifle will see each year. Me? I have the 510 and the Calvin Elite versions and like the CE more but it's more money. I also have a Jewell and like it maybe a bit more than the CE. I understand not wanting to spend a lot to upgrade a rifle, but the trigger can make or break a shot (pun intended), which doesn't matter for random trips to the range on paper/steel but on game animals I wouldn't go into the field with anything less than the best I could put together- there's too much riding on that single pull. I'm not even talking about a trophy, talking about responsibility as ethical hunters. A bad trigger pull could result in a wounded animal, and that's no good.
 
yes, agree on ethical responsibility.

I was on the path to thinking of a Timney as well, ~$100 for a Timney (from my limited research so far), very doable and from looks of it, a very good trigger. Time to get to ordering one.

Thanks !
 
I adjust those Rem factory triggers by driving the pins out, that hold it to the receiver, and throwing it in a coffee can with the others. I don't think the insurance company lawyers feel safe with any trigger that can be adjusted to less than 6-7#.

Great answer! Timney and Jewel have the same answer. I have some in a old brass box myself.
 
Have a Rem700 AAC and went to adjust trigger and couldn't get it anywhere near where I would like it (2.5-3#).

What do I need to do to get it there or should I just get an after market trigger to drop in? I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars (rifle is for my dad who only hunts with it, couple weeks a year only).

Just looking for a clean breaking trigger around 2.5-3#.

Thanks all!


Even though some factory triggers are said to be adjustable, They have preset the minimum and you cant safely go below there setting limits.

You can change springs, hone the sear surfaces (If you have the fixtures) and make them better but by doing so you void any warenty and take all the responsibility from the maker. Remington now uses a tracer element that cant be reproduced so when you adjust the triggers they can prove you tampered with the trigger. So in essence, you have probably Alreadyvoided the trigger.

It is best to get an aftermarket trigger Preset to the weight you want and go with it. There are plenty of aftermarket triggers available that are fully adjustable. But always read the instructions so you dont adjust the sear (This should only be done buy someone that works on triggers and knows how much ingaugement it needs to be safe.

I prefer the Jewell because it comes with 3 different springs for different ranges of trigger pulls/weights. The Timmney comes preset.

J E CUSTOM
 
Saw this one for sale on flea bay....$70

Shilen Remington 700 Standard Trigger. This is an adjustable Remington 700 trigger by Shilen. It is user adjustable from 1.5 to 3 lbs.

Thoughts? Are these easy to drop in? This doesn't come with safety, that difficult to transfer to new trigger? Or stay away from ones that don't have safety?
 
Timney. Less expensive and while factory set for pull weight, they are adjustable... The little red painted screw on the backside is your pull weight screw. You do have to take it out of the furniture however and apply threadlocker afterwards.

Remember, no oil on either

I have both actually. I have no real preference other than the allen wrench that I can loose easily.
 
Timney. Less expensive and while factory set for pull weight, they are adjustable... The little red painted screw on the backside is your pull weight screw. You do have to take it out of the furniture however and apply threadlocker afterwards.

Remember, no oil on either

I have both actually. I have no real preference other than the allen wrench that I can loose easily.


That is one of the things that I like about the Jewell. I can adjust it while still In the stock. I also use a lot of Timney but like you said, you have to take them out of the stock to adjust them.

When you can find them, the 40x Remington has an adjustable trigger and you can also reach it with the stock still on. I feel this is a plus because you don't chance changing the torque and altering the POI by taking the stock off.

I don't re adjust triggers once i get them set so I haven't had the problem of lost Allen wrenches :)

Ether way triggers are a personal preference and as long as they break clean, i am happy.

Just Me:cool:

J E CUSTOM
 
I've had timney, jewell, Huber, and now trigger tech. The Huber is in my match rifle and I think it's great for that. I've been going with the trigger tech recently for hunting rifles and I have been extremely impressed. I'm not a fan of the external safety linkage on the jewells.
 
I own a very vintage and pristine Smith and Wesson branded Husquvarna built 308 Mauser 98 small action rifle with the OEM gritty, clunky trigger and I've been contemplating a Huber ball bearing trigger for a while now, but I may install a Timney instead. It's more of a shoot infrequently museum piece, I'd never take it hunting. Just too nice with it's beautiful wood Monte Carlo stock, engine turned bolt, lapped receiver and old time parkerized action and barrel plus it's a rare bird, only 1200 were ever imported back in the early 60's. Smith changed suppliers to Howa and the quality went south and Smith dropped the line entirely.

It's shoots and groups as well at 200 yards as my custom built rifles do, sub-sub MOA at 200 consistently. The trigger is terrible however. I see Timney and Huber make drop in replacements but the Huber requires inletting the stock to accept the trigger. Timney on the other hand is a straight replacement.
 
I own a very vintage and pristine Smith and Wesson branded Husquvarna built 308 Mauser 98 small action rifle with the OEM gritty, clunky trigger and I've been contemplating a Huber ball bearing trigger for a while now, but I may install a Timney instead. It's more of a shoot infrequently museum piece, I'd never take it hunting. Just too nice with it's beautiful wood Monte Carlo stock, engine turned bolt, lapped receiver and old time parkerized action and barrel plus it's a rare bird, only 1200 were ever imported back in the early 60's. Smith changed suppliers to Howa and the quality went south and Smith dropped the line entirely.

It's shoots and groups as well at 200 yards as my custom built rifles do, sub-sub MOA at 200 consistently. The trigger is terrible however. I see Timney and Huber make drop in replacements but the Huber requires inletting the stock to accept the trigger. Timney on the other hand is a straight replacement.


I haven't tried a Huber but I will have to just to see if i like them. Canjar used to be my favorite but are hard to find anymore.

Canjar made one for the 788 Rem but they are hard to find so I use Timney on them.

Lots of good choices

J E CUSTOM
 
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