I recently purchased a Remington 700 BDL SS in a 300 RUM. I wanted it for a longe range beanfield deer hunting rifle to hunt in NW Oklahoma the panhandle of Texas where the shots are loooong! Problem is that it doesn't like the Scirroco 150's (2in.@100). Is there a technique to accurize the factory barrel to shoot factory ammo w/out pouring lots of money in to it and avoiding burning out the barrel?
Accurizing a factory barrel
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TomVan
You can do the things that fiftydriver discussed to help, but each gun is a beast unto its own. Variances in chambers and barrel harmonics are the keys usually.
Bed, recrown and try different loads.
If you are dead set on 150 Siroccos then add a barrel tuner like the Browning/Win Boss system. That will allow you to "tune" your barrel to a specific load. Normally we tune our loads to the barrel!
See the link below on barrel harmonics and tuning. It was originally posted on 12-12-02 in bullets barrels and ballistics.
here is a link to the most detailed discussion of the ladder/audette method of load development. the article is very long with pictures etc but well worth copying to word file and saving. Got more details than I knew. For example they discuss shooting a ladder (20 rds) to find seating optimum seating depth. Never thought of that. http://home.snafu.de/l.moeller/Laddertest.htm#Laddertest
BH
You can do the things that fiftydriver discussed to help, but each gun is a beast unto its own. Variances in chambers and barrel harmonics are the keys usually.
Bed, recrown and try different loads.
If you are dead set on 150 Siroccos then add a barrel tuner like the Browning/Win Boss system. That will allow you to "tune" your barrel to a specific load. Normally we tune our loads to the barrel!
See the link below on barrel harmonics and tuning. It was originally posted on 12-12-02 in bullets barrels and ballistics.
here is a link to the most detailed discussion of the ladder/audette method of load development. the article is very long with pictures etc but well worth copying to word file and saving. Got more details than I knew. For example they discuss shooting a ladder (20 rds) to find seating optimum seating depth. Never thought of that. http://home.snafu.de/l.moeller/Laddertest.htm#Laddertest
BH
Fiftydriver
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Tom,
Light bullets on top of big cases always can lead to finicky rifles, especially factory rifles.
You may want to consider trying a bit heavier bullet and see if things settle down for you.
I am not questioning your marksmenship in any way but have you shot a rifle with the recoil intensity of the 300 RUM before? It is a quantum leap in power and recoil compared to the 30-06.
To answer your question about tuning up your barrel for cheap. I would say the short answer is no.
In my shop when customer comes in asking me to make their factory rifle shoot better for little money I do three things:
1. Recut the crown to a true match quality cut.
2. Tune the trigger to a clean 3 lb let off.
3. Bed the rifle is the stock will allow it. Factory "plastic" stocks will not allow the bedding compound to permanently bond to the stock and eventually it will break free.
Other then these three steps, it is either a matter of finding a load your rifle likes or doing some major surgery.
I have seen many times guys thinking that machining will cure all ailments with a factory barrel. This is simply not true. If a factory barrel does not shoot well with quality handloads, no machining will save the barrel except perhaps to cut the threads off, accurize the receiver and refit the barrel with a quality fit and rechamber. Still you are limited by the factory bore and this is hardly cheap to do.
I highly recommend spendign the $250 to $290 on a top quality barrel and then have it fitted to your action. Again this is not cheap but it will surely cure many headaches that you will have to deal with in the future.
First off, try some different bullets. If your shooting factory stuff, try the partition or Ultra Core lokt loads as the generally are pretty accurate, generally more so then the factory Scirroco loadings.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
Light bullets on top of big cases always can lead to finicky rifles, especially factory rifles.
You may want to consider trying a bit heavier bullet and see if things settle down for you.
I am not questioning your marksmenship in any way but have you shot a rifle with the recoil intensity of the 300 RUM before? It is a quantum leap in power and recoil compared to the 30-06.
To answer your question about tuning up your barrel for cheap. I would say the short answer is no.
In my shop when customer comes in asking me to make their factory rifle shoot better for little money I do three things:
1. Recut the crown to a true match quality cut.
2. Tune the trigger to a clean 3 lb let off.
3. Bed the rifle is the stock will allow it. Factory "plastic" stocks will not allow the bedding compound to permanently bond to the stock and eventually it will break free.
Other then these three steps, it is either a matter of finding a load your rifle likes or doing some major surgery.
I have seen many times guys thinking that machining will cure all ailments with a factory barrel. This is simply not true. If a factory barrel does not shoot well with quality handloads, no machining will save the barrel except perhaps to cut the threads off, accurize the receiver and refit the barrel with a quality fit and rechamber. Still you are limited by the factory bore and this is hardly cheap to do.
I highly recommend spendign the $250 to $290 on a top quality barrel and then have it fitted to your action. Again this is not cheap but it will surely cure many headaches that you will have to deal with in the future.
First off, try some different bullets. If your shooting factory stuff, try the partition or Ultra Core lokt loads as the generally are pretty accurate, generally more so then the factory Scirroco loadings.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
rost495
Well-Known Member
Without looking, ladder test sounds like the Audette test. And we should have it posted as permanent link. I can't believe how many folks don' t know about it or use it. I've used it since 1991.
Anyway for long range, dump the 150s and go 180 or 200. They don't bleed off like the light ones and are very accurate.
No one mentioned Tubb's firelapping method and that is worth a try before you spend bucks on a new barrel. It usually helps.
But a custom barrel and chamber are a sure fix as Kirby mentions.
Jeff
Anyway for long range, dump the 150s and go 180 or 200. They don't bleed off like the light ones and are very accurate.
No one mentioned Tubb's firelapping method and that is worth a try before you spend bucks on a new barrel. It usually helps.
But a custom barrel and chamber are a sure fix as Kirby mentions.
Jeff
Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 27, 2001
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TomVan, I would suggest you take a few fired cases and measure the runout of the neck. if the case runout exceeds 5thou, there is a very good chance that the chamber is not cut square with the bore.
That barrel will never shoot well. You might find a load for MOA or a bit better, but a tack driver, forget it.
Chamber relative to the boreline is the single most important factor in accuracy. The best barrel in the world with an off center chamber will shoot as well as an SKS.
If the runout tests holds up, then I would try every single factory load available. You might get lucky and find one that shoots. If not, then handloading will be a must do.
Another check is to measure the throat of your chamber. The bullet must fully engrave in the lands before leaving the neck. If not, accuracy will be poor. With the short 150gr bullet and a long throat, this may be one reason for your poor performance.
Remington may have set up their reamers for the 180gr and heavier bullets, so throated with more freebore then your load can handle. Remedy would be to set back the barrel and get that bullet closer to the lands.
The action and stock should be bedded, or least checked to make sure that the barrel is not rubbing (free float if you haven't done so already) in the stock. Reduce the trigger pull to a nice light letoff.
Ensure that your scope is accurate and not suffering from excessive parallax. You should also have the resolution to see at least 1/8" at 100yds. Very hard to shoot small groups with low/no magnification.
Shoot off solid front and rear rests on calm days. Finally, shoot only a few rds and let your barrel cool. Your barrel can start to walk after only 2 rds if shooting in warmer weather (a lot of powder and heat from that case).
Watch your flinching, and body form. No matter how slight, it will greatly affect your consistency. Not good for shooting tiny groups.
Jerry
That barrel will never shoot well. You might find a load for MOA or a bit better, but a tack driver, forget it.
Chamber relative to the boreline is the single most important factor in accuracy. The best barrel in the world with an off center chamber will shoot as well as an SKS.
If the runout tests holds up, then I would try every single factory load available. You might get lucky and find one that shoots. If not, then handloading will be a must do.
Another check is to measure the throat of your chamber. The bullet must fully engrave in the lands before leaving the neck. If not, accuracy will be poor. With the short 150gr bullet and a long throat, this may be one reason for your poor performance.
Remington may have set up their reamers for the 180gr and heavier bullets, so throated with more freebore then your load can handle. Remedy would be to set back the barrel and get that bullet closer to the lands.
The action and stock should be bedded, or least checked to make sure that the barrel is not rubbing (free float if you haven't done so already) in the stock. Reduce the trigger pull to a nice light letoff.
Ensure that your scope is accurate and not suffering from excessive parallax. You should also have the resolution to see at least 1/8" at 100yds. Very hard to shoot small groups with low/no magnification.
Shoot off solid front and rear rests on calm days. Finally, shoot only a few rds and let your barrel cool. Your barrel can start to walk after only 2 rds if shooting in warmer weather (a lot of powder and heat from that case).
Watch your flinching, and body form. No matter how slight, it will greatly affect your consistency. Not good for shooting tiny groups.
Jerry
