A couple of questions for you guys!

BirdDog50

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I am working up some loads for a 300wm. I purchased some brass - PPU and Nosler. The PPU is for working up some test loads for different bullets and powders. After inspecting the cases and reviewing the instructions I need to size at least the necks...Question - these cases are very thin ( not much brass there) are they safe to shoot? The Nosler's are great cases ( expensive) the instructions say they are ready to reload - Question- do I need to size them or can I just reload them? The Nosler will be the cases used for the finial LRH solution. Thanks for any intel you can share.
 

MagnumManiac

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Yes, they are safe to shoot.
You don’t need to FL size them, but running them through the FL sizer will give you perfectly round necks.
Don’t forget to chamfer the case mouth and outside of the mouth after sizing them.

You do realise that loads between the 2 case brands will most likely be different due to volume differences…right?
Working up loads needs to be done in BOTH case brands…not just one then interchanged. This can result in very high pressures and should not be done.
Also, a max load in virgin belted brass is vastly different to a max load in fireformed brass, many experience excessive pressure going to once fired brass with loads from virgin brass…me included early on with my first 300WM.

Cheers.
 

BirdDog50

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Thank you for your insights! I will FL size the cases. Would you recommend that I FL size the Nosler brass too?

Yes- I did realize the loads for the two different cases would not be the same because of volume differences but I did not know that
virgin brass would have max load differences from fireformed brass! So the test loads used for the new cases shouldn't be used once they are fireformed - correct? If yes - any suggestions on what should be done for the fireformed brass? THANKS
 

MagnumManiac

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You can still use the test loads in virgin brass, but you will need to re-test groups once you start running the once fired brass, it will be faster with the once fired brass by roughly 50fps. The pressures will rise, so you need to be on the lookout for flat primers or ejector marks.
You could fireform first, but this really isn’t necessary. Just work up a good accurate load and fine tune it with the once fired brass.

Cheers.
 

Blacktailer

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All you have to do with new brass is make sure the necks aren't dented from shipping. If they are I usually just run the decap/expander stem down as far as possible in the die, lube the inside of the necks a little and run the cases into the die just enough for the expander to straighten out the neck.
After the first firing trim to length and chamfer after they have been sized.
 

osprey176

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I normally just run the expander down far enough to clean up the necks,but I chamber a few before loading them just to be sure I don’t get any surprises. With the 458 Socom,I’ve found it necessary to resize new brass or it’ll give chambering issues.
 

xsn10s

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Really unless the cases mouths are dented, out of round, or have a good amount of runout I'd just chamfer and debur them. You can run them in a FL die but I wouldn't FL resize them Meaning I'd back out the die a bit and just let the expander ball straighten out the case mouths/ necks. Like suggested earlier you just want to make the mouths/ neck round again. A concentricity gauge is good for this and when you resize and load ammo.
 

Eeegadd

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I am working up some loads for a 300wm. I purchased some brass - PPU and Nosler. The PPU is for working up some test loads for different bullets and powders. After inspecting the cases and reviewing the instructions I need to size at least the necks...Question - these cases are very thin ( not much brass there) are they safe to shoot? The Nosler's are great cases ( expensive) the instructions say they are ready to reload - Question- do I need to size them or can I just reload them? The Nosler will be the cases used for the finial LRH solution. Thanks for any intel you can share.
You need to YouTube Erik Cortina shoulder bump gauge. Also take a look at whidden that makes custom full size dies for onve fired brass to your rifle. Do not send the cheap stuff, jist nosler. Also don't do load tests then switch brass and expect the same results. Trust me on all this. You'll thank me later when your brass gets too tight for your chamber.
 

Alibiiv

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Well.......here's my two-cents worth; and.....this is probably where the fight starts;):eek:😂. First I like to prepare my brass as close to the same dimensions that I am working a load up for. With today's quality control I take "nothing" for granted!! I have some 30-06 Lapua brass, however have not had a chance to dig into them to measure them up and see what the tolerances on that brass are going to look like? I full length size every piece of brass right out of the box. I full-length-resize with the expander plug out, and then use a mandrel neck sizing tool for the neck tension. I ream all of the primer pockets for uniformity, then measure for overall length of the brass and trim the brass to the length. Chamfer inside and outside of the necks then deburr the flash hole. After the initial first firing, I will anneal the cases and turn the necks, then resize the brass, bumping the shoulder back .002 thousandths. I agree with the posts that the loads ought to be worked up using the same brass. As for PPU brass, I have some, but have not tried it as of yet. From what I could find on this forum there are mixed reviews, but that is all I can say about it. I pretty much use Hornady brass because that is all that I can find for the .35 Whelen and the .358 Winchester. I fireform for a .270 Ackley Improved so use Nosler brass for that "when" I can find it. I wanted to go with Lapua or Peterson, tried to find some .280 Remington, however I believe that all of that brass is being used of the .280AI and is like finding chicken's teeth. Right now I have a newly acquired 22-250, and again cannot find any brass for this one either.
 

xsn10s

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I full length size every piece of brass right out of the box.
For shame!!!!! J/King lol. Hey different strokes for different folks. If it works for you then there you go! I do like your use of the mandrel rather than an expander ball. Some times I do that extra step and it does help with reducing brass stretch.
 
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