7mm STW Reloading Thread

[WildRose]

So RL23 is supposed to be the same just not temp sensative correct? I'm in VA and haven't had any issues with 22 yet. Just playing with a lb I was given. I'm an H1000 guy.

Close, but not the same. I've been playing around with both RL23 and RL 26 and having good results with several different bullets.

H-1000 has always been my "go to" powder but I'm liking several things better about the RL powders not the least of which is that they meter a whole lot better and more accurately.

 

[JMack]

Recently acquired a factory Remington 700 DBM 25.5" pipe with brake 1:9.25 twist so I'm starting from scratch.

Range report from today March 19. 33deg 40% humidity 0 wind

100 yards 3 shot groups round robin shooting timed 4 minutes between shots.

CCI magnum primers 3.65 coal .20-.22 jump

This was 4th load on brass

160 AB 74.0 gr H1000 1-7/8" (first shot low, two and three touching high)
160 AB 71.0 gr 7828 2-1/8" (nice triangle)

140 AB 73.5 gr 7828 2" (verticle string)
140 AB 79.0 gr rl 25 3-3/4" (first shot low, two and three high touching)
140 AB 70.5 gr h4831 2-1/8" (verticle string)

160 Barnes XLC 80.0gr rl25 1-5/8" (nice triangle)
160 Barnes XLC 82.0gr h1000 1-7/8" (nice triangle)


Thinking I should redo the two loads with some new brass that had two shots touching. The only thing I can think is that the gun needs 10 or so shots to foul barrel and settle in?

I'd really like to get the 160 AB shooting since I don't have many of the Barnes XLCs.

Any thoughts? Advice?

Thanks

 

[ODAVID]

The online version is on the following web site. Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide

I like to have the hard copy available. For what its worth. Either way both are helpful.

Again if interested send me send me PM with shipping cost.

ODAVID

 

[eshorebwhntr]

Recently acquired a factory Remington 700 DBM 25.5" pipe with brake 1:9.25 twist so I'm starting from scratch.

Range report from today March 19. 33deg 40% humidity 0 wind

100 yards 3 shot groups round robin shooting timed 4 minutes between shots.

CCI magnum primers 3.65 coal .20-.22 jump

This was 4th load on brass

160 AB 74.0 gr H1000 1-7/8" (first shot low, two and three touching high)
160 AB 71.0 gr 7828 2-1/8" (nice triangle)

140 AB 73.5 gr 7828 2" (verticle string)
140 AB 79.0 gr rl 25 3-3/4" (first shot low, two and three high touching)
140 AB 70.5 gr h4831 2-1/8" (verticle string)

160 Barnes XLC 80.0gr rl25 1-5/8" (nice triangle)
160 Barnes XLC 82.0gr h1000 1-7/8" (nice triangle)


Thinking I should redo the two loads with some new brass that had two shots touching. The only thing I can think is that the gun needs 10 or so shots to foul barrel and settle in?

I'd really like to get the 160 AB shooting since I don't have many of the Barnes XLCs.

Any thoughts? Advice?

Thanks

I've heard of some barrels shooting better fouled but I've never personally seen one that took 10 shots to settle in after cleaning. Especially a magnum like the STW. If you clean normally, dry patch everything out to a clean bore, and apply a light coat of oil...you should be back to normal in 1-3 shots. At least that is my experience.

If you're tied to magazine length loads then stick with that.

If you want to go after max potential accuracy then maybe try getting closer to the lands .030 or so at a time to see if the gun likes one amount of jump significantly better than the other. If it shoots better at longer than magazine length then you have a decision to make.

H1000, RL 25, and 7828 are all suitable powders in my opinion. Pick which one you like, have the most of on your bench, or whatever and work up a ladder test. With a factory rifle like that I'd work toward a consistent 1 MOA realistic goal. Some are better, some are worse, but most should do 1 MOA or slightly better. Especially with hand tailored reloads.

All that being said, if it were me...

1. I'd load 9 more rounds with the 160 NAB. (3) .030 longer....(3) .060 longer...(3) .090 longer @ 74.0gr H1000. Shoot those and see what you get. Compare them to the first group you shot with the 74.0gr H1000 at magazine length.

2. Take the best from Step 1 and load up a ladder from the powder range listed in your reloading manual. (If you're using Nosler brass, subtract 1gr from the book values). Probably 1gr increments. You could go smaller increments if you like. Shoot at 200 or 300 yards. 3 shot groups each. Pay attention to group size and vertical from you aiming points. Also watch for pressure and find your max for that combo in your gun.

This is just my process. It's not the be-all/end-all...its just what works for me and usually gets me where I want to go.

Good luck.

 

[ncwg2boatguy]

eshorebwhntr
hit the nail on the head. From what I have found in my 3 STWs they like a little jump to the lands. Normally 20-25 on mine was the sweet spot. STWs will shoot sub MOA on any platform I have seen (REM, SAV, Tikka) and don't need to be super charged to get it done. But close to Max loads have their advantages depending on application.

Jimbo

 

[ncwg2boatguy]

eshorebwhntr

Hit the nail on the head. Seating depth is key on the STWs I have owned. Everyone of them was Sub MOA with factory ammo and hand loads really dialed them in. All of mine like a little jump to the lands (20-25) but don't need to be super charged to perform. Its an inherently fast chambering anyway. But hotter loads have there purpose just make sure you work up and check for pressure signs. The necked down 8mm Mag case holds ALOT of powder. Max loads not developed by YOU for your gun can have catastrophic results.

Jimbo

 

[coyotezapper]

My factory Remington barrel liked everything jumped. The Barnes 140 X Bullet jumped .120" and was an honest 1/2" moa load. Load development for all bullets started at DBM length and then adjusted from there always moving in and they all shot very well. As with any cartridge you do not have to jam them to get them to shoot. It can be a short cut to good accuracy but in most cases leaves you with a single shot.

 

[eshorebwhntr]

My factory Remington barrel liked everything jumped. The Barnes 140 X Bullet jumped .120" and was an honest 1/2" moa load. Load development for all bullets started at DBM length and then adjusted from there always moving in and they all shot very well. As with any cartridge you do not have to jam them to get them to shoot. It can be a short cut to good accuracy but in most cases leaves you with a single shot.

Most of my rifles also shoot best with some amount of jump. But that amount is usually not the same for all rifles, even with the same bullet or bullet design.

I think that it is well worth the 12 bullets and powder to find out how much a rifle does like. In the last few years I finally started taking the time to test every bullet I intend to shoot. Prior to that I made the mistake, especially with Bergers, of never trying anything other than right at the lands. Now I usually find the lands, back off .010 and then .050, .090, etc to find what the rifle likes best...no matter what bullet it is.

 

[JMack]

Excellent information and thanks to all of you much appreciated.

I'd be lucky to get much past 3.65 oal without making my rifle a single shot, which I would rather not do. That's about max I can get into the box mag. I plan on using this to hunt with.

I'll try backing them in a little see what that does then move on to ladder with charge weights.

Question: why -1gr using nosler brass?

 

[eshorebwhntr]

Excellent information and thanks to all of you much appreciated.

I'd be lucky to get much past 3.65 oal without making my rifle a single shot, which I would rather not do. That's about max I can get into the box mag. I plan on using this to hunt with.

I'll try backing them in a little see what that does then move on to ladder with charge weights.

Question: why -1gr using nosler brass?

In many applications the Nosler/Norma brass has slightly less case capacity compared to RP/Winchester/etc. Most people hit pressure sooner and see equivalent MV with 1-2gr less powder than with RP.

I haven't yet used Nosler in the STW but I have seen what I described above to be true in a 6.5 RSAUM and a 300 RUM that I've reloaded for.

The main thing is always find the load for your gun...don't take a load that may be near max for the cartridge, when it may have been developed using RP brass, and substitute in your gun with Nosler brass. At the least you'll probably get a stuck bolt but could be worse.

 

[coyotezapper]

In many applications the Nosler/Norma brass has slightly less case capacity compared to RP/Winchester/etc. Most people hit pressure sooner and see equivalent MV with 1-2gr less powder than with RP.

I haven't yet used Nosler in the STW but I have seen what I described above to be true in a 6.5 RSAUM and a 300 RUM that I've reloaded for.

The main thing is always find the load for your gun...don't take a load that may be near max for the cartridge, when it may have been developed using RP brass, and substitute in your gun with Nosler brass. At the least you'll probably get a stuck bolt but could be worse.

^^^^ This is very good advice that should be repeated more often.

 

[WildRose]

^^^^ This is very good advice that should be repeated more often.

I've only run Winchester Supreme and Nosler almost exclusively in all of mine and found the Winchester to be similar, lower pressure with the same loads.

It's probably been at least two decades since I reloaded any RP STW brass. Conversely I ran almost exclusively RP brass in the 7RM so had nothing to compare it to.

 

[ODAVID]

JMack,
This is the same method I also use and I am now getting 1/2 " and sometimes better at 200 yds. Takes a lot of time and repetition but is doable.

As a relatively new member to the stw club, I recomend you ask several questions then re-ask on uncertain areas to valadate what is being said so you don't do something really wrong.


If you want to go after max potential accuracy then maybe try getting closer to the lands .030 or so at a time to see if the gun likes one amount of jump significantly better than the other. If it shoots better at longer than magazine length then you have a decision to make.

H1000, RL 25, and 7828 are all suitable powders in my opinion. Pick which one you like, have the most of on your bench, or whatever and work up a ladder test. With a factory rifle like that I'd work toward a consistent 1 MOA realistic goal. Some are better, some are worse, but most should do 1 MOA or slightly better. Especially with hand tailored reloads.

All that being said, if it were me...

1. I'd load 9 more rounds with the 160 NAB. (3) .030 longer....(3) .060 longer...(3) .090 longer @ 74.0gr H1000. Shoot those and see what you get. Compare them to the first group you shot with the 74.0gr H1000 at magazine length.

2. Take the best from Step 1 and load up a ladder from the powder range listed in your reloading manual. (If you're using Nosler brass, subtract 1gr from the book values). Probably 1gr increments. You could go smaller increments if you like. Shoot at 200 or 300 yards. 3 shot groups each. Pay attention to group size and vertical from you aiming points. Also watch for pressure and find your max for that combo in your gun.

This is just my process. It's not the be-all/end-all...its just what works for me and usually gets me where I want to go.
ODAVID

 

[dougduey]

RL22 has some temp stability issues, and H1000 does not. H1000 just performs well in all the bullet weights. I'm trying out RL26 on the 140gr Etip and 162gr ELDX this week to see how it does. It should give me more speed and it's supposed to be very temperature stable. I'll report back with my results.
Also, I'm tweaking a load with the 175gr Partition and H1000. Looks like it may be a shooter. I'll let you know on the results with it, too.

Quick update.
I pushed the limits of RL 26 using the 140gr Etip and 162 ELDX. My Quickload calculations were a little off, and I hit the pressure limits for both earlier than expected. Good news is that the 140gr Etip was pushed at 3439fps and the 162 ELDX at 3251fps. I wasn't on an accuracy node, so I'm dropping charge weights down and seeing where I land. One test load of 79.0gr with 140 Etip put 3 in one hole, but the velocity is only in the high 3100's. I'll report back
The 175gr Partition ended up with a submoa load using H-1000. I don't have my notes in front of me, but I want to say it was 81.8gr. Velocity was 3007 fps. With Nosler brass, CCI 250 Primers, and 3.70" COAL

more to come.........